Bongo Fury

Misfuelled????

Fuel pump???(can hear it running/buzzing when cranking)

After market immobiliser???

Check yr fuses???(check for 12 volts at fuel pump fuse, again on cranking) it 's a 15 amp no idea where though

Try swapping your distributor with a fellow V6er

try spraying small amounts of easy start in the air intake to see if you can keep it running(this will rule out an ignition fault) or get hold of a spark testing tool which is basically a little bulb type device that fits on the spark plug lead and flashes when you have a spark

Bongos dont have a fuel cut off ,they are possibly a tachometric relay/ecu controlled, which means when the pulse from the crank sensor stops it causes the relay/ecu to stop the fuel pump running

As for putting it on a computer,
I would drag it down to a fuel injection garage cos not many garages will have the connector/software to fit the bongo cos all cars from 2001 have a 16 pin eobd2 socket and some pre2001 still have this universal type of connector and the jap car/imports have totally different ones...

Cheers Steve

P.s The above tips are in no paticular order

Beat me to those Steve..... I find the Crank sensor is a favourite on 80's/90's petrols.... for sudden cut outs that or a fuse somewhere (make/model dependent)..... Check your dizzy for any shorting out too and your coil...

HI Cheffy,

Sorry to hear about your motor.

I looked into this a while back, found this on how it works and an idea on how you can test it:

http://www.virtualmechanix.co.uk/sensor ... ensor.html

I recall www.rockauto.com had them quite well priced.

R U sure you are getting a good spark and fuel through?

I can't think of much else that would suddenly go and cause your issues, I agree the CPS could be at fault. Can;t think of another sensor such as lamda, maf etc that would cause the engine to stop dead. Maybe worth double checking all the relevant electrical connectors and the ECU connectors. Failing that you may have to find someone with a diagnostics machine to shed more light on it.

There is an engine control module relay listed, also an intertia switch on the fuel pump. Stabbing in the dark as if to something like that could cause the problem.

CPS part details here:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... n%2BSensor

Main parts listing for your engine here:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... n%2BSensor

Keep us posted and good luck../

Thanks guys excellent advice some brilliant links aswell, the real bummer is i have just changed jobs again at the mo so flat out and just cant get to the dam thing

Some really good advice and plenty for me to be going on with


Dar

Well i got him started and got him into my garage so i can look deeper I advanced the ignition slightly and he runs all be it badly, retard it back to its correct setting and it won't go same old turns over but fires an dies I am a bit confused but i can hear the leads earthing, i did get a whack from the coil lead aswell last week so i am leaning towards a leccy issue



any ideas guys

Dar

cheffy34 wrote:Well i got him started and got him into my garage so i can look deeper I advanced the ignition slightly and he runs all be it badly, retard it back to its correct setting and it won't go same old turns over but fires an dies I am a bit confused but i can hear the leads earthing, i did get a whack from the coil lead aswell last week so i am leaning towards a leccy issue



any ideas guys

Dar

Hi,
You could spray a water mist around the coil/leads/injectors etc when dark, then try starting the vehicle,that will show any shorts in the (external)ignition system.

PS you could also check the injectors using a piece of brush shaft (or similar)on the injectors and listen for the Click.No Click No Go.

Cheers.

well the plot thickens new coil lead and back on original mazda leads three of which are brand new the other three are good, started up first time ran rough then did the same but it is more eager to start "a little" is there a way to check if the coil is working correctly, remember i have a spark and fuel,


Any more ideas guys, i want my bongo back now


Dar

cheffy34 wrote:well the plot thickens new coil lead and back on original mazda leads three of which are brand new the other three are good, started up first time ran rough then did the same but it is more eager to start "a little" is there a way to check if the coil is working correctly, remember i have a spark and fuel,


Any more ideas guys, i want my bongo back now


Dar

Did you ever get this fault sorted cheffy?????

No i didn't nev, still farting aroung with it, i can say it's not the coil either as i have replaced it, i am reluctant to buy the ignitoer till i know for sure, could do with a fellow v6er bringing there van around so we can swop a few bits over and see, i have been tempted to stop some v6s i have seen, I can get him runnin and firing ok but does nothing when you boot it


Any Ideas

cheffy34 wrote:No i didn't nev, still farting aroung with it, i can say it's not the coil either as i have replaced it, i am reluctant to buy the ignitoer till i know for sure, could do with a fellow v6er bringing there van around so we can swop a few bits over and see, i have been tempted to stop some v6s i have seen, I can get him runnin and firing ok but does nothing when you boot it


Any Ideas

It's difficult one just by the info given especially if it's running and just loss of power/cutting out

because step by step diagnosis is actually easier when the vehicle doesn't start...

I would guess the only options are another donor vehicle to help out ( I would but I'm a oil burner sorry) or a good garage?

Time to plea cheffy

Stuck pressure regulator valve? Downstream from fuel pipe, upstream from injectors.

Don't understand the questions about the fuel pump and other upstream fuel line components, as you've said you've got pumped pressure at the output end of the fuel pipe haven't you?

Hey guys just an update on my issue for those that are bothered, this morning i risked reading my ecu again after a not so succesfull attempt a fair while ago scaring myself that i may have fried the ecu in the process and this time i followed the v6 manual and guess what got two codes, 1345 which is cam sensor the other one is 1521 vris solenoid valve system, cam sensor i know but what the f##k is and what does a vris solenoid valve do


Thanks Dar

Variable Resonance Intake System - VRIS
Its controlled by he ECU, wiring diagram below its B4-16;

Its located on top of the engine ( at least the connector is);

and its one of the two Valves on the Lush diagram (I think but not sure its 20-990);
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... o=.html#17
I suspect the Workshop manual might help, but I don't have one.

Hey Guys here we go again all sorted, cleared the fault codes replaced the vris solanoid and cam sensor no more fault codes, it is now working and running on idle lovely, but i still have all noise and no go when i give it beans on the gas peddle it all runs tickety boo, but just no go just lots of noise as if it is going like the clappers


I still seem to have a resinating / vibrating noise coming fro the vacinity of the vris solanoid at about 2500/3000 revs

13-140a in the first link

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html


solanoid no2 has been replaced and is now working solanoid no1 works if you give it 12v from the battery but only recieves 11 volts at the plug but does give over 12v when you rev the engine does it work via a progressive voltage linked to the revs how freely should air flow through the check valve 13-995 obviously it should only flow one direction which is demonstrated on the valve but it is very diffacult to get air through it the correct direction, if it is not working correctly could it be possible that this would cause bad vacuum which could lead to my resinating in the surge tank and my lack of go

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html


Or should i be looking elsewhere


Any Ideas and tghoughts appreciated



Dar

BUMP