Bongo Fury

dangaran wrote:sorry to ask but where is the fuel filter?

Under driver's seat

why not put a windoe fuel line in,b4 and after teh pump,that way you could see where the air is coming in from.

window is clear fuel pipe i use nylon but you could use braided just to find out what is going on,

have alook round all the connections to see if there is any way air can get in/fuel get out.

sometimes if you over tighten pipe clips it can make pipe oval and let air in.

or maybe they have not fitted the fuel filter washers??

wouldnt think it would be pump seals as it was ok b4 service,have a look round pump to see if its leaking

Be very careful with Slick 50. We had a Black Cab in here once for a transmission & had the garage on the phone a few days later saying the oil pressure warning light was now on & what had we done? Clearly we don't do anything to effect engine oil pressure & it turned out the owner, after he got it back from us, had added Slick 50 to the engine. When the garage removed the engine sump they found loads of crap stuck all around the oil pump inlet strainer, which was restricting the oil into the pump. Cleaned it all out & it was fine again afterwards. The Slick 50 has some kind of additive in it which softened all the built up rubbish that was coating the inside of the engine & allowed it to circulate in the oil, causing his problem. I personally wouldn't use it, but if you do, only do so if you are sure there are no deposits built up on the inside of the engine.

I always thought itwas good stuff,i looked into it and loads say NOOOOO

Oh, i put some in around october time,
That was advise from Ian Taylor....

did not make any differance to my huge oil consumption..

Ian's adivce was sound if he thought the slick 50 would increase the viscosity of the oil... That can help to seal the piston rings on the one hand, but increase crankcase pressure on the other hand, result? High oil consumption. Is there any associated excess smoke either when run hot, or cold starting? Is it a low or high mileage engine? High mileage could mean oil use in the cylinder bores, low mileage could mean the engine has too high a deposit of carbon build up, causing high internal pressures, again possibly leading to blow by in the crankcase. I'd drop the oil over a regular intervals for a while (maybe every 3 months or so?) This, in addition with a regular italian tune should shift enough crud build up that may possibly be blocking the oil pick up pipe in the sump. A poor seal between the pistons and the cylinders could well be the cause of the high oil consumption AND the poor starting.

bigdaddycain wrote:This, in addition with a regular italian tune should shift enough crud build up that may possibly be blocking the oil pick up pipe in the sump.

DO NOT DO THIS
If you suspect crud build up on the oil pickup the last thing you want to do is belt the engine, thats the fastest way to wreck the bottom end & the oil pump - thats if the pump doesn't sieze completely if it sucks the 'crud' in. If you suspect a restricted oil pickup (& there is no reason to suspect this unless you have an oil light on when it shouldn't be) then the only option is to drop the sump & clean it out.

If you are using oil, as others have said it is either via the rings (stuck/broken rings or worn/glazed bores), down past the valves or through the turbo (assuming it isn't leaking out when its running, you may not notice it beneath the car if it is a running leak).

I agree! My post was a little disjointed, i meant an italian tune would help clear carbon deposits due to low mileage runs etc

Surely there would be tell tale signs of seal leaking if they mean fuel pump? Anyway, if this is the case (you see leaking) then get the seals from here and I can be on hand to help out in any way to fit them if you need it.

I have, on occasion, had a 'lumpy' start now and then from cold, I let it get on with it personally.

dangaran wrote:Ok, spoke to garage,
they say , they thought my diesel pump seals may have gone???
£15 plus upto 2 hours labour (£90)

this sound like a conspiracy to me

Ok, so, they are going to replace the seals. To do this requires the pump to be removed as the culprit is probably the front seal if it is the pump. It then requires a new belt and timing.
So if they replace all seals and above charging up to 2 hours labour only, get it done if you can see the work done.
Others have said what the problem is likely to be and common sense (remember that) points to air entering the system WHERE THE WORK WAS DONE.

bigdaddycain wrote:I agree! My post was a little disjointed, i meant an italian tune would help clear carbon deposits due to low mileage runs etc

Thanks for all the replies, i have it booked back in for this weekend ...


i will let you know what happens

Ok , so i picked up the van from the garage,
starts first time now, they replaced the front and side diesel pump seals.
The old seals were brittle .

Well i am happy now, just got to cure these clicking front brakes..

Congrats on the clean starts! The pad might be floating a bit on the caliper... Try removing the pad, inspecting it, and giving it a fair old dose of coppergrease on the mating faces. Are the anti-rattle shims still in situ? I recall once getting a set of pads for the bongo and the shims (or were they springs?) wouldn't fit with the new pads... The pads squealed like mad when they warmed up. In the end i changed the pads for a different brand, and all was well