Bongo Fury

g8dhe wrote: The best way to connect is;
+12 volt supply to the +ve of the LED light
-ve of LED light to one side of the switch and the other side of the switch to the switched earth from the door switch.
Its not totally clear from the markings which connection is which but you only want TWO connections in use on the switch, and don't bring the +12 volts any where near the switch at all.

Sorted! Did it as per instructions and it now works fine and there is no longer a change in voltage when switched off.
Thanks a million Geoff & Madmile.
Incidently I tried the extra earth from the chassis into the 3rd earth connection on the switch, as it was already there. Made the switch light up , but also when the LED strip was switched off, it was still on but really faint!? Have disconnected it now - didn't really want my switch to light up anyway.

Huge thanks again

Andrew

g8dhe wrote:I'm suprised the fuse hasn't blown!

It did! Makes sense why now!

Glad its sorted and glad Madmile knows the switch for that one as well!

g8dhe wrote:Glad its sorted and glad Madmile knows the switch for that one as well!

Cheers - thanks once again Geoff.

Andrew

Having been an electrician all my working life and being used to fusing and switching the positive wires of an installation, just for imformation, I was wondering if there was any reason why on a 12 volt DC system the switch is being used in the negative wire, as is being talked about in this thread.

I know what you mean! It was suggested to me once that because of the vibration and shocks that hardware receives in a vehicle it was better that switches and other mechanical contacts that might break and make a circuit to earth under fault conditions should therefore switch the low side of the supply. That way you only end up connecting earth to earth! It also makes for cheap switches such as those in the door where only one contact is needed, the other being supplied by its own mounting screws etc.

theres sense in that logic