Bongo Fury

mikexgough wrote:surely there must be at least a Static timing set up too in the manual....... then it can be done with the strobe etc after.....if not where do you start?

The only other reference I can find in the manual is, under "installation of timing belt", a one-liner:

"6. Start the engine and check the following. (1).......(2).....the ignition timing. (3)...."

There's no detailed explanation there of how to check it, statically or otherwise.

Ignition timing (checking and) adjustment, as in my earlier post, is only fully described under an integrated "Engine Adjustment" section, where it is only done dynamically, with pre-warmed engine and other specified conditions, and within a specified idling range.

Then how do you set the engine up to the "right" static timing to enable the engine to be started and ultimately to be set the dynamic way?.... there must be a way......... If the answer can be found somewhere, then a V6 timing fact sheet might be useful for you V6 ers......even if it is just for inclusion in your manuals

mikexgough wrote:Then how do you set the engine up to the "right" static timing to enable the engine to be started and ultimately to be set the dynamic way?.... there must be a way......... If the answer can be found somewhere, then a V6 timing fact sheet might be useful for you V6 ers......even if it is just for inclusion in your manuals

Haven't done one but hope it will start if set to the middle of the small adjustment range there appears to be on the distributor clamp slot. If not, then it'll be trial and error like it used to be anyway, back in the days of simple side valve engines.

hogggman wrote:......only thing i can think of now,is making sure the timing is spot on.seems ok at the minute,but i`m tempted to move the distributor body one way or another slightly to find the optimum position........

How did you fit the new distributor for static timing, good enough to first re-start the motor, Jamie? Are there some obvious marks to initially align the body to, or is it trial and error? David

hi,
the`old`one had a painted mark to match it up on the engine block.i simply put the`new`one in the same position.once i got the plug leads correct it started first time.i`m tempted this afternoon to make minute adjustments and see if it sounds better.
thanks
jamie

hogggman wrote:hi,
the`old`one had a painted mark to match it up on the engine block.i simply put the`new`one in the same position.once i got the plug leads correct it started first time.i`m tempted this afternoon to make minute adjustments and see if it sounds better.
thanks
jamie

Good luck. If it seems to run better, that would have been it in the old days - but might be worth getting the emissions checked anyway, before the old MOT comes round.

it failed miserably on the emissions last time.the guy testing it let it go because it`s registered as a motorcaravan.hopefully it`ll be much better this time.mot time in a month or so anyway,so i may just do as much as i can before then and take it in,and hope!!
jamie

hogggman wrote:it failed miserably on the emissions last time.the guy testing it let it go because it`s registered as a motorcaravan.hopefully it`ll be much better this time.mot time in a month or so anyway,so i may just do as much as i can before then and take it in,and hope!!
jamie

Yes, have seen that "registered as a motorcaravan, so no emissions test" comment before (perhaps it was you?) but when mine (also motorcaravan-registered) had its first MOT in our hands, in September, the garage which did it (First Car, Shrewsbury) insisted that it had to be done. Wonder if the regs changed, since your last MOT? Worth checking.

I'm not too clued up on the 929 engine but there's a fair chance that a nineties engine will have a TDC sensor on the flywheel to tell the ECU where the crank is positioned.
The relationship between the rotor arm and the segments in the distributer cap is critical in these pre distributerless engines, so mucking about wiith the timing in a "suck it and see" fashion isn't recommended as the ECU/coil could be fooled into delivering too much voltage to the plugs, resulting in premature deterioration of the leads and plugs. The ECU could also be fooled into delivering the wrong fuel/air mixture resulting in the emissions being excessive.

Modern car engines produce around 1% of the dangerous emissions produced from 80s pre- catalyser motors (although they do produce more C02) so the ignition and fueling is very finely controlled - I think you should have the ignition/fueling professionally setup, once setup properly, thats it for life.

thanks dandy.i have to take it for mot in the next 4 weeks,so i may contact the garage in advance to see if they are able to carry about the necessary adjustments.is this within the scope of any competent mechanic,or would it need to be someone who`s seen these engines before.
thankyou
jamie

hogggman wrote:thanks dandy.i have to take it for mot in the next 4 weeks,so i may contact the garage in advance to see if they are able to carry about the necessary adjustments.is this within the scope of any competent mechanic,or would it need to be someone who`s seen these engines before.
thankyou
jamie

As my post (31 Dec, 12:39 pm) above Jamie, ideally you need somebody with the test equipment listed in the V6 workshop manual, and access to the manual. I would ring round the "bongo-friendlies", anywhere near you. If you can't find one with the manual, please put Ian in touch with one who wants the work - I've been nagging him for weeks to try to get them sold to garages that do want V6 and 2.0 litre petrol Bongo work. dandywarhol's post well-vindicates the manual, methinks.

dandywarhol wrote:I'm not too clued up on the 929 engine but there's a fair chance that a nineties engine will have a TDC sensor on the flywheel to tell the ECU where the crank is positioned..........

Ah yes, the dreaded flywheel TDC sensor system. Had that on a Rover and on a big (604) Peugeot, and both came adrift more than once - bringing me to a complete stop somewhat quickly. That why they moved on from that system?

hogggman wrote:it failed miserably on the emissions last time.......

That also endorses what dandywarhol said, doesn't it - assuming your old distributor was already on the blink then? If it's any consolation, Jamie, ours, presumably "set up for life" as he suggested happens once sorted, was clean as (cleaner than) a whistle on its emissions test in September - so, get it done properly, and I guess you'll not have MOT probs, and may well see improved fuel consumption as well.

hi,
yes,that makes sense.last year my bongo was doing up to 32mpg on a run,and recently it`s been as low as 15mpg around town.if i can,i will get a manual before mot time and get it looked at.
thankyou all for your advice and help
jamie

hogggman wrote:hi,
yes,that makes sense.last year my bongo was doing up to 32mpg on a run,and recently it`s been as low as 15mpg around town.if i can,i will get a manual before mot time and get it looked at.
thankyou all for your advice and help
jamie

If you were able to do the work yourself, which unfortunately without the gear you can't, I could probably feed you enough info by phone from my copy, while you tinker. For (tightly expressed) copyright reasons though, I can't copy the multiple pages involved, for you to pass on to a garage - Ian's already aware that I've at least temporarily cost him one or two manual sales by PM help to a couple of peeps! It is well worth buying though, even if only because it will help you deal with garages on more of a level playing field.