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Re: Checking engine oil
Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 10:49 am
by Trouble at t'Mill
Pah! You'd think all you'd have to do is press another button and it would top it up for you...
Re: Checking engine oil
Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 1:44 pm
by mikeonb4c
I knew I guy years back who actually bought a 1929 Rolls Royce for a perfectly reasonable sum. He showed me the little pump lever on the dash that, when used, distributed grease from a reservoir to key points in the steering and wheel bearing collection. I was impressed

Re: Checking engine oil
Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 5:49 pm
by scanner
haydn callow wrote:As you say it's not the end of the world if you check it hot....Just a bit harder to check cos the oil is thinner and harder to see.
COLD...in the morning...just remove dipstick (the engine one) and read the level.
HOT.....anytime....remove dipstick...wipe with rag/paper....replace dipstick...remove again and read.
But it's not just the temperature, it's also how much oil is still in the oilways and chambers in the engine.
If you check when warm and then top up to the full mark you are likely to be overfull when cold after all the oil has drained back into the sump.
It is possible for a diesel that is overfilled to run on the oil mist from the sump and some have been known to rev and rev until they blow up.
Re: Checking engine oil
Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 5:55 pm
by haydn callow
I really don't think it would make enough differance to the level to cause a problem, A little oil drains back to the sump but most "sticks" around in the engine. I doubt there is half a pint in it from hot to cold.
Re: Checking engine oil
Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 6:14 pm
by bigdaddycain
One of the advantages of checking the oil whilst cold, is that the inside of the dipstick tube is clean, and oil free, except for the actual level, the dipstick won't even need a wipe to get an accurate measurement.
Re: Checking engine oil
Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 6:52 pm
by scanner
haydn callow wrote:I really don't think it would make enough differance to the level to cause a problem, A little oil drains back to the sump but most "sticks" around in the engine. I doubt there is half a pint in it from hot to cold.
It varies from engine to engine, but I'm fairly certain it's usually at least half a litre.
Re: Checking engine oil
Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 7:05 pm
by Harry
Dipped today and level fine.
Sniff test....smells (and looks) like old creosote...is this ok????
H

Re: Checking engine oil
Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 10:38 am
by Trouble at t'Mill
Not sure if you're joking, harry, but of smells of Creosote, then that's all it's any use for (really - works well for treating timber especially posts under ground level - old oil is nasty stuff, tho', and the environmental agencies might be on your case...!)
When was the oil last changed? Any kind of 'burnt' smell from the oil means it's well past its effective use and should be replaced as a priority.
Will you be DIYing this job? If so, I'd thoroughly recommend the use of an oil flush additive (ok) or actual flushing oil (better) as part of the job. Garages will do this for you too - some will even strongly recommend it as part of a service.
If using the additive, then warm up your engine, add the additive, idle for 10 minutes (read instructions here - some allow you to drive your car for a few miles instead) then drain the oil and replace the filter.
The flushing oil will be a bit more work although a lot more effective. A slight problem will be that it comes in 4-5 litre cans so you'd either need to buy 2 cans (or 3 to give a future flush!) to make up the required 6+litres, or else you'd need to drain off 4-5 litres from the sump and replace the plug before topping up with the flushing oil.
As before, you run the engine for a determined period, and then drain and replace the filter (the old filter remains until the new clean oil is added.)
If your engine hasn't had regular oil changes as it should have, then a flush really helps to get all the old crud out, cleaning the oilways etc..
(If you go to a good motor factors, then good quality oil doesn't cost much more than cheap stuff from normal outlets. I bought Millers 10W40 Semi-Synth for turbo diesels for £17 /5l can. 3 cans is good for 2 quality oil changes. Because your Bongo is worth it...)
Re: Checking engine oil
Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 11:30 am
by Harry
Thanks for takin the trouble, trouble.
Much appreciated.
No I wasn't kidding....oil is long overdue for changing....problem is finding the time/weather to do it.
I've got all the stuff ready...sump plug washers, filter, engine flush etc ....looks like I'm going to have to bite the bullet and employ my garage to do it
H

Re: Checking engine oil
Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 1:51 pm
by mikeonb4c
Harry wrote:
....looks like I'm going to have to bite the bullet and employ my garage to do it
H

Nooooo! If you're going to do that you might as well spend on getting a Pela pump so that henceforth oil changes are such a cinch and a pleasure that even bad weather won't put you off.

Re: Checking engine oil
Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 2:56 pm
by Trouble at t'Mill
Hi Harry.
It really is a pretty easy engine to do this job on. The worst part is removing the lower covers to gain access to the filter. However, even this isn't too much of a pain; even if your car isn't jacked up, you can drop the cover and slide it backwards on the ground where it can be pulled out from under the car (or just leave it sitting there!)
However, I agree with Mike - keep the garage money and buy a pump. If you now make sure the ol' car gets regular oil changes - and you use a 'flush' as well - then a pump will do the job fine for you. (Mind you, can you reach the filter from above, or will you still need to drop the cover?!)
There's another thread on this forum about additional hints when changing the oil with a number of useful contributions.
Re: Checking engine oil
Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:14 pm
by MountainGoat
Re: Checking engine oil
Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:27 pm
by teenmal
Trouble at t'Mill wrote:Hi Harry.
It really is a pretty easy engine to do this job on. The worst part is removing the lower covers to gain access to the filter. However, even this isn't too much of a pain; even if your car isn't jacked up, you can drop the cover and slide it backwards on the ground where it can be pulled out from under the car (or just leave it sitting there!)
However, I agree with Mike - keep the garage money and buy a pump. If you now make sure the ol' car gets regular oil changes - and you use a 'flush' as well - then a pump will do the job fine for you. (Mind you, can you reach the filter from above, or will you still need to drop the cover?!)
There's another thread on this forum about additional hints when changing the oil with a number of useful contributions.
Hi TAM,Why do you need to remove lower covers to change the filter
And where are the covers
Cheers Mal...
Re: Checking engine oil
Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:20 pm
by mikeonb4c
I've always changed my oil filter without having to remove the lower covers. Mine's 2WD but I didn't think that made any difference

Re: Checking engine oil
Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 5:49 pm
by teenmal
Hi,I think there was a bit of Info from Dandywarhol that the oil light on a bongo is dual purpose--level and pressure.
He thinks that there is a sensor near the sump drain plug with a couple of wires going to it.
He was going to check it out when he changed his oil,the he would let us know for sure.
Cheers Mal..