Bongo Fury

It's between 1 and 7mm as Dandy says. You work within a tolerance between two figures. Think about how you would try to measure 1.7mm anyway? What makes it worse, the tracking tool used by my garage is set up to use degrees and minutes so what does the manual state? A mixture of degrees/minutes and millimetres

dandywarhol wrote:I now think I misread the manual thinking the dash sign was a break after the word "Value" and set mine to 3.5 (or the equivalent in degrees on the turntables). It's not going to make a huge difference in reality and thats why the tolerance is pretty big, the wishbone rubber bushes take up a lot of the tolerance as does the steering rack joints. I was just trying to get the point over that the 1.7 figure is wrong IMO

PS, sorry Manners, I forgot my manners back there and began to rant - not a good day at the chalkface - mustn't take it out here

Nothing wrong with a rant if it's something worth arguing about I think we're used to you by now Dandy , & it's hopefully clarified the situation, any chance of the factsheet being updated now Ian?

Veg_Ian wrote:It's between 1 and 7mm as Dandy says. You work within a tolerance between two figures. Think about how you would try to measure 1.7mm anyway? What makes it worse, the tracking tool used by my garage is set up to use degrees and minutes so what does the manual state? A mixture of degrees/minutes and millimetres

The manual doesn't state degrees Ian, just linear. There's a calculation tool on our college gauges and if it's between 1 and 7 mm then the dimension in degrees is between 10' and 1 degree 5'.

The ' denotes minutes - there's 60 minutes in a degree.

I still think the workshop manual is misleading - the dash before the 1mm could well mean minus 1

The manual doesn't state degrees Ian, just linear. There's a calculation tool on our college gauges and if it's between 1 and 7 mm then the dimension in degrees is between 10' and 1 degree 5'.

That's all well and good but I'm talking about the system (Hunter?) as used by my tyre place where they attach a device to each wheel then choose the vehicle spec from the computer database and follow instructions from the screen. All readings are in degrees and minutes. Green denotes within tolerance and red out of. And hey you get a nice colour printout at the end of it. Now that's dead easy to follow even for me (and looks cool) but you can't expect these guys to apply a bit of maths!! They wouldn't be wasting their time fitting tyres if they could do that now would they?

The ' denotes minutes - there's 60 minutes in a degree.

Cheeky chuff, I may be old but I do still remember that from my school physics

I have a set of those mats, any one remember them?
you put them on a flat road and drive over them slowly
one as a pointer and the may a rollers that allow the two
haves to be pushed sideways so any side force moves
it and a pointer giving toe in or out, you aim for 0%
with the car moving, done a few cars with 100% success
but not the Bongo.

I just got a couple of these for the College - ancient stuff but you can see how it works and it converts degrees to linear

Ah but does it give colour printouts? Get your priorities right!

went to my local ATS and told him -3.5 toe in and he seemed to think it was to much so we settled on -2 and see how they wear.

Hello,
For the past two years i have been employed in recycling but for the prefious 20 years i was employed in the tyre industry, so being experienced with using FOUR wheel laser alingment gauges i would recommend using a parallel setting.
John

manners wrote:went to my local ATS and told him -3.5 toe in and he seemed to think it was to much so we settled on -2 and see how they wear.

Just to be absolutely clear manners, -(minus/negative)3.5 is toe out, 3.5 is toe in. Are you sure he set it toe in?

Yes 2mm toe in