Bongo Fury

Thanks francophile1947 for your advice on the non turbo diesel oil. I bought a 5 litre can of oil in my local halfords after having some advice from the staff, but I have sinced noticed that it is not for turbo diesel engines. Going to take it back and try the local halfords instead. Hope to see you on the road John and Sue!

Pizza11

Look at the compatable parts on the top of the techie stuff page it gives all compatable oil filters mainly Mitsabushi

Regards

John

I serviced our 04 Nissan Almera last week and was going to use 5/30 as it is mostly used around town. Glad I took the handbook with me. When I checked the spec on the oil against the handbook the oil spec was ACEA B1. Book says 'never use ACEA B1'.
Can any clever clogs out there explain why?

mikelamb wrote:Thanks francophile1947 for your advice on the non turbo diesel oil. I bought a 5 litre can of oil in my local halfords after having some advice from the staff, but I have sinced noticed that it is not for turbo diesel engines. Going to take it back and try the local halfords instead. Hope to see you on the road John and Sue!

Sounds about par for the course - take it back ask for your money back and compensation for a wasted journey.

BUT?

How are you going to take it back to the local Halfords AND try the local Halfords??

Aren't they one and the same place that gave you useless advice last time?

I go for 15/40 turbo diesel engine oil normally carlube from my local car shop at £7.99 -5ltrs reason is its a bit thicker so if there are any leaks in or around the engine it will seal them better than the 5/30 which is a bit thinner so could leak out, had the bongo three years and regular oil changes and not had any problems with it

ebygum32 wrote:I go for 15/40 turbo diesel engine oil normally carlube from my local car shop at £7.99 -5ltrs reason is its a bit thicker so if there are any leaks in or around the engine it will seal them better than the 5/30 which is a bit thinner so could leak out, had the bongo three years and regular oil changes and not had any problems with it

Using a thicker oil just means the engine is harder to turn over when cold and the oil takes much longer to circulate from cold and thus longer before it lubricates the bearings properly.

You also need to remember that the first number (0/5/10/15 etc.) is the viscosity when cold and ONLY applies when the oil is cold.
The second number (30/40/50 etc.) is the viscosity when hot and ONLY applies when the oil is at normal working temperature.
So ideally you need to use the lowest possible first number and the highest possible second number.

How are you going to take it back to the local Halfords AND try the local Halfords??

Sorry scanner, meant to say try my local wilkinsons!

I have just woken up
I would not touch that Wilkinson stuff with yours!.
No mention of any API spec. and all this advertising crap about 'Synthetically fortified'.
As far as viscosity is concerned. I always used 15w/40 in my Bongo but I live on the lovely warm south coast!
I was getting 25mpg round town and over 30 on a run. The more worn (older) your engine is the more 'slack' you will have in all rubbing surfaces. the thinner the oil in an old engine, generally the more oil you will use..
As far as the speed with which the oil gets round the engine at start up. All modern oils are 'clingy' i:e: leave a film on the surfaces, hence the death of upper cylinder lubricant. so I would not worry too much about that aspect.
Sorry if my lubes fact sheet was not clear. I hoped I had made it as simple as possible.
Go for the best API spec you can afford and (IMHO) don't waste your money on synthetic if your engine has done over 25,000miles. Viscosity is up to you depending on the ambient temperature wherever you live.
Basically it doesn't really matter (within the ranges discussed) unless you get temperatures below -5c on a regular basis.

Colin
The Wilkinsons oil states, 15w40 synthetically fortified
API CF4 ACEA B2 spec
Is this Any Good ?

Hi Colin,
Thanks for your advice about the oil. I have gone for a part synthetic oil from Halfords 10W/40. It says that it is suitable for most turbo diesel engines, hope I have gone for the right one. Its only been used as a top up so I can always get another type for the upcoming oil change.
Thanks,
Mike.

The CF-4 API was introduced in 1990, there have been one or two improvements since then. (See Below - info from http://www.burkeoil.com/pdf/oilguide.pdf ) Go for the highest API you can afford I would imagine is a good choice.

CJ-4
Introduced in 2006. For high-speed, four-stroke engines designed to meet 2007 model year on-highway exhaust emission standards. CJ-4 oils are compounded for use in all applications with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 500 ppm (0.05% by weight). However, use of these oils with greater than 15 ppm (0.0015% by weight) sulfur fuel may impact exhaust aftertreatment system durability and/or oil drain interval. CJ-4 oils are effective at sustaining emission control system durability where particulate filters and other advanced aftertreatment systems are used. Optimum protection is provided for control of catalyst poisoning, particulate filter blocking, engine wear, piston deposits, low- and high-temperature stability, soot handling properties, oxidative thickening, foaming, and viscosity loss due to shear. API CJ-4 oils exceed the
performance criteria of API CI-4 with CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4 and CF-4 and can effectively lubricate engines calling for those API Service Categories. When using CJ-4 oil with higher than 15 ppm sulfur fuel,
consult the engine manufacturer for service interval.

CI-4
Introduced in 2002. For high-speed, four-stroke engines designed to meet 2004 exhaust emission standards implemented in 2002. CI-4 oils are formulated to sustain engine durability where exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) is used and are intended for use with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 0.5% weight. Can be used in place of CD, CE, CF-4, CG-4, and CH-4 oils. Some CI-4 oils may also qualify for the CI-4 PLUS designation.

CH-4
Introduced in 1998. For high-speed, four-stroke engines designed to meet 1998 exhaust emission standards.
CH-4 oils are specifically compounded for use with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 0.5% weight.
Can be used in place of CD, CE, CF-4, and CG-4 oils.

CG-4
Introduced in 1995. For severe duty, high-speed, four-stroke engines using fuel with less than 0.5% weight sulfur. CG-4 oils are required for engines meeting 1994 emission standards. Can be used in place of CD,
CE, and CF-4 oils.

CF-4
Introduced in 1990. For high-speed, four-stroke, naturally aspirated and turbocharged engines. Can be used in place of CD and CE oils.

The Great Pretender wrote:I serviced our 04 Nissan Almera last week and was going to use 5/30 as it is mostly used around town. Glad I took the handbook with me. When I checked the spec on the oil against the handbook the oil spec was ACEA B1. Book says 'never use ACEA B1'.
Can any clever clogs out there explain why?

And this SS Sue?

Have a look at http://www.burkeoil.com/pdf/oilguide.pdf , I can't see anything there relating to ACEA B1, is an Almera a Diesel or Petrol as these API's only relate to diesel.

It didnt differentiate Sue, the book said DONT USE IT.
Almera is Bi

Did a bit of a search on Google just to try and satisfy my curiosity and came up with this:-

ACEA A1/B1 Oil intended for use in gasoline and car + light van diesel engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate viscosity of 2.6 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils may be unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.

So it looks as if its just not suitable, but why - I don't know.