Bongo Fury

Thanks scanner - I've looked at the manual and the idle control screw appears to be at the end of part number 24 -8002 and the idle speed should be between 700 - 780 rpm hot.

I'll have a look at mine tomorrow too..............

I'll ammend the previous post.

Someone put a definitive pump adjustment chart on here about a
month back I think it's part 24-3112 it looks like a motorcycle
brake light switch with a wire or two going to it the other adjuster
in max revs and should be left alone.

I've made the adjustment by tightening up the throttle cable by a couple of turns. It's the one with the long rubber gaiter covering and a threaded adjuster with a rubber washer surround. It's done the job!

I bet it feels a bit brisker off the mark with no slack in the linkage.

I'm off to work in a minute, so I'll see how much quicker I get there!

Remember if the throttle it's the stop before the pedal it's
the floor it will put a bit of strain on the cable and pump
leavers

brookie wrote:I've made the adjustment by tightening up the throttle cable by a couple of turns. It's the one with the long rubber gaiter covering and a threaded adjuster with a rubber washer surround. It's done the job!

Suspected as much as I was looking at mine yesterday while servicing. But couldn't remember for sure. Let us know how it works as it is a bit surprising that - as scanner suggests - it doesn't use an adjustable lever stop end (cables can get a little prone to binding and usually like a little end play, although the Bongo lever spring is quite strong so guess it's OK).

Mike this is Mike's phone number @Wheelquick 01942 217800

Be very careful adjusting the actual cable.
You could over adjust and then put unecessary stretch on the cable on full revs, when the lever reaches maximum fuel position on the pump.
It is best to adjust tickover on the lever stop where the lever rests on idle.

I have not looked on my Bongo yet, but below is a simple diagram of how some idle adjustment screws work. I am not siue if it is the same on the Bongo yet?

I hope this makes sence?

The maximum travel screw is usually sealed with a lead seal, as this is a factory setting.
The idle adjuster is not sealed. Take a spanner and undoe the lock nut, (anti clockwise) then turn the screw slightly clockwise, which will increase the idle speed.
If you imagine adjusting the cable only. This will move the lever away from the stop (idle screw), then if you fully depress the accelerator pedal, the lever will reach the maximum travel screw and cause unecessary stretch as mentioned above. Eventually, the idle will go back to how it was originally, as the cable will stretch, allowing the lever to set back to the stop (idle screw)

Excellent explanation there rooster. How do you knock out all this whizzo diagrams, and so quickly. Class stuff

Yep, makes sense to me karl... You have a knack of explaining things clearly, in layman's terms...

I was wondering how you did those handy diagrams too?

Being very high tech I believe that Karl uses one of his kids Etch a Sketch, scans the drawing on his printer then downloads it. Ingenious!

The following is from the Russian Mazda Friendee Club I think
I got it off here but not certain hope they don't mind me re posting it.






For picture 2. Old pump:
Idle speed (in a warm car) should be 700-780 rpm, the nut is regulated at "XX".

Aperture "A" manages rpm until 800 + -25 under load (aircon, steering, headlights ...)

Aperture "B" manages rpm before 1350 + -150 when warming up. They managed vacuum 53KPa. It's easy to see. Turn the ignition on cold car and rod should be go in the diaphragm.

If there is no vacuum, the diaphragm does not work. And this is just another story.

Screw "A" regulates warming up rpm , screw "B" regulates rpm under load.
_________________
Russian Mazda Friendee Club

Thanks guys, I've since done a bit of each, the throttle cable was a bit too loose anyway, so I've taken up the slack a little, then as shown in your diagram Ralph, I unplugged the wire from the microswitch and adjusted the screw (shown as XX in the pic) so it touches the plate than governs the throttle spring to the pump, it has worked a treat, no over-tightened cable and the microswitch/screw in the relative same place! It now ticks over at 750-780 rpm hot. No vibration like before at 650.

"Result" I thought it was XX and the diagram seems to agree