bigdaddycain wrote:I Cant speak for anyone else, but in my case, i undone the bleed pipe (under passenger seat,clipped to side of chassis) removed the bung to drop all the coolant. (engine off, and cold)
Inserted hose into header tank,and set it to a steady flow of warm water,for about ten minutes to clear the system.
Still with hose running warm water, with level of header tank hovering around max mark, started engine.
Be ready to turn the flow of water up at this point to compensate for the level drop as water starts to circulate.
All this is still with the bleed pipe open by the way.
In my case, i ha the notion that the engine had now been running for 15 minutes,and at no stage had the level dropped below the max mark,so it was time to start introducing anti freeze into the equation.
I'd bought two five litre tubs of anti freeze,one left neat, the other diluted into a 50/50 mix of warm water in a bucket.
I put in neat antifreeze into the flow of water running into the header tank,till i could see the (by now) diluted anti freeze come out of the bleed tube, quickly switch to the pre made anti freeze solution, whilst telling your helper to swich off the hose,then without allowing the level to drop in the header tank start filling the header tank with the 50/50 mix.
When you have nearly used the bucket, get the helper to replace the bung.... ( the helper wont thank you for this!)
Allow the engine to continue to tickover, with the heaters on full.
When you are happy that the level has stabilized then replace the header tank cap.
Allow the engine to reach full operating temperature, rev if you'd like to speed up the process... but its essential that you continually keep a visual on the header tank level.
I mixed up more anti freeze whilst waiting for the engine to warm fully,and kept it at the ready if the water level dropped.
The system is now pressurized,the water is hot, remove the header cap slowly (use gloves) if any air is present in the system, it will try to burp itself out from where the pressure is being released. (the header tank)
The water level may rise whilst doing this.
Replace the cap,allow the engine to tick over for a few more minutes. then switch off.
Allow the engine to cool.
When you return a couple of hours later,you will notice the level has dropped to just below the minimum mark.
Dont panic! its perfectly normal.
Just remove the cap, and top up slowly, replace cap when just below max mark. (pressure has dropped now,you want it showing max when hot, not when cold)
Restart engine,move the bongo onto a bone dry area,get a helper to hold a fast idle,whilst you keep a visual on the level,and whilst checking for leaks,bring back up to temperature,make sure the heaters are blowing hot.
Switch off, then check water levels daily for a couple of weeks, keep some pre mixed coolant in the boot just in case
This isn't the official mazda routine, its a way i came up with that definitely could not introduce an airlock in the first place.
You know me peeps, i stand to be corrected if i fluffed it....
(p.s. this was nearly 12 months ago now, with no sign of coolant loss, or overheating...touchwood!)
