Bongo Fury

bongovi wrote:Mostly to Um-Bongo:

The valve clearances were set before it was delivered, the folks at Wigan Engines say they always do that.

Also the block, they confirmed, was new. The recon on the receipt referred to the re-used parts. Seals etc. were new.

"Like"

I am amazed at the amount of peeps that think they Know better than the Engine Designers/Technicians.
The reason for the sealant on the front part of the head is "THE TWO front bolts "A" on the head are LOW TORQUE".

I hope you haven't tightened these bolts the same as the rest.


Good Luck.

rita wrote:I am amazed at the amount of peeps that think they Know better than the Engine Designers/Technicians.
The reason for the sealant on the front part of the head is "THE TWO front bolts "A" on the head are LOW TORQUE".

I hope you haven't tightened these bolts the same as the rest.

Good Luck.

I don't think anyone here thinks they know better than the manual. In our case we missed the line about the sealant as we were focused on the order for torquing down, by the time we saw it it seemed like a tough call to replace the bolts if the gasket works without sealant.

Can anyone confirm they've fitted a head gasket without silicon sealant and had no trouble?

The torque settings for the A bolts were clear enough, ta - didn't miss those.

rita wrote: I hope you haven't tightened these bolts the same as the rest.


Good Luck.

God no, they would have stripped the threads at 1/10th the head bolt torque!!

Great stuff looks like your ready to rumble.

Good Luck.

Manuals, designers and engineers aren't perfect, and i'd go with some people's temptation to try something different. Nothing ventured etc but you have to be eyes wide open about the likelihood that the professionals know better. I always felt Simon Jones (top Bongo man, not been seen on here for some time) was very thoughtful and well qualified for doing it hia own way. One of the very few people whose advice i would trust.

I've now had a look at what the procedure actually said, its not to do with sealing the head gasket as such, just sealing the minute potential gap between the block and timing gear cover where the gasket runs over it.

I did note a small white sealant strip in that area on the gasket itself, presumably to seal that area.

At the very worst not applying sealant could lead to a very, very small oil seepage from that gap.
but as the engine is already coated in oil, its a non-issue.

Weekend's here already. Hope you're all well. Would be amazed if anyone was out Bongoing this weekend.

Not great weather for it, but will have a stab at fixing those vac hoses today. I mentioned before:

"One of which has 'something' in it, which Um-Bongo wondered might have been an NRV, anyone know?

It's the hose that goes into the air pipe around the back of the engine. It snapped just above the 'something' blob."

Cheers if you can shed any light on that, as not sure how to best fix it.

"One of which has 'something' in it, which Um-Bongo wondered might have been an NRV, anyone know?

It's the hose that goes into the air pipe around the back of the engine. It snapped just above the 'something' blob."

Tracked it down on the diagrams, to be clearer: 1375/93-5104 as seen in the middle of: http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

Looks like I can just do a straight swap with a new hose, leaving out whatever that blob was in the middle of it?

EDIT:

Correction, it's part 13-995 and its top connecting tube that broke, top right of this image: http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... f02.html#4

The first image I found just referred to the first 60mm length of hose going into the NRV, which is still in tact. Found out it is an NRV from here: http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... 16#p490536 with superglue, araldite or epoxy recommended to fix it. So, on to that!

the non return valve is needed . when the throttle is applied the pressure overcomes the one way valve, this dumps the vac on the cold start solenoids which wont be needed when your revving the engine,

http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... 70#p508044

Got all that back on in the end, I think the NRV hose is on snugly - new one went into the wider older one with superglue seal. Will aim for a replacement asap, but this is a temp fix.

6l of oil and a coolant top up (water mostly, with residual coolant making it just pink) and bleed, we were ready to try to fire it up.

Result: it cranked/turned over, but didn't fire. Several tries, getting slower and slower as the batt faded, tried to jump it off the 100ah leisure batt, then gave up and put the main batt + an Um-Bongo borrowed 100ah truck battery on charge for the night.

This morning I tried the main batt, fully charged. Much more lively attempt to start, but 3-4 long-ish goes later it faded back down to slow. I did notice a very slight hiss/depressurising sound on the driver's side as I turned the key in the ignition to off.

So now the truck batt is next to test, but does anyone have any tips on getting it to fire? In theory there should be nothing stopping it at this point.

Cheers.

Northern Bongolow wrote:the non return valve is needed

Cheers - didn't see this reply. Will keep in its superglued state, and look to replace asap. Will keep an eye on my inbox for further updates - feels very close at this point!

I'm still wondering if there is any sort of fuel bleeding needed as the injectors have been off.

The simple way to check the delivery is, Slightly slacken the injector pipe nuts and wind the engine, taking care to protect eyes etc etc.

It would also help if you fill the filter with fuel.? Also some filters have a hand primer (on the top of the filter casing)



Good Luck.

Progress:

- The bus bar is getting 12v (rules that out)
- Loosened/removed injector 1 fuel line, tried to turn it over, nothing came out (ah, right...)

Where's my fuel? There's half a tank of diesel in there, from before xmas, but it doesn't go off *that* fast, does it?

Will perhaps try to pre-fill the fuel filter if that's still worth doing in this case? Would be nice if it'd draw its own fuel through though...

EDIT: Found this post from Northern in 2015: http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... ng#p656811 about loosening off the fuel lines a crack, turning over, then locking back up when diesel appears. Will try that now.

EDIT 2: Nothing coming through. Looking for alternatives - any other bright ideas welcome