Fresh import - first tasks, rust proofing (in 2021...)

[trackfive]

Hello,

Question about rustproofing a fresh import, and getting some basics sorted.

I collect my (first) Bongo next weekend, and am prepared to spend a week or so with it on ramps doing a full rust treatment. I believe investment in time and effort now will repay later on...

The car is a 2004 '54 Aero AFT 2.0, in stock form with 8 seats; no camping equipment or storage. Approximately 115k miles, slightly tired interior but nothing a new steering wheel and door pulls won't fix. It is the engine I really didn't want, but everything else checks out - the body was so shockingly clean, and being priced very fairly - I couldn't pass it up. It's quite exciting actually.

The car will not be converted, instead we'll camp and cook in the awning. I don't want to add anything that's not removeable.

The plan currently stands at:

Drive it home. Try to calm the kids down after they invariably want to play in the roof tent. Let them play in the roof tent. Get it on stands.

1. Clean/degrease the underside
2. Deox gel worked in with a wire brush on any small spots of rust
3. Electrox primer
4. Dynax S50 lanced into cavities from an aerosol (how many, three?)
5. Dynax UC all over the underside. Heat seams before coating.

Planning on using Dynax UC instead of UB, because at least I can see where there are any issues developing with the clear product. The opaque stuff may be harder wearing, but it may also obscure issues until it's too late.

I think a compressor + 5L jerry can of Dynax UC is probably a better investment than 6x cans of aerosol, albeit a bit more expensive.

I'd also like to know how to go about lancing S50 into the wheel arch cavity? Are there any access holes?

Alternatively, has anyone used the new 'Raptor' branded products? How would that fit into a rust prevention regimen of this sort?

Otherwise, is there something you wish you'd have done when you first picked up your Bongo?

Thanks

[Alkers]

If it's as immaculate as you say it is, you could consider just painting the underneath as opposed to the dynax (or even before the dynax).

[trackfive]

Thanks for your reply - it's pretty decent, so I'm hoping to delay rot for as long as possible.

Quite right -- I will probably paint after the electrox treatment. Regular hammerite silver for the underside.

The van is here now, and is outrageous fun to drive. It's got loads of electrical ICE weirdness installed though; some kind of TV tuner switcher which overrides the GPS on the head unit to allow you to watch TV whilst driving (!!), and two reverse cameras, neither of which work.

Looking through the JAF docs it looks like it's always been serviced at the same Mazda dealership, and comes with 4 (four) keys and one remote. So likely one owner. 190k km so grade 3.5, but regularly maintained with all receipts with the van.

I have found a few annoying issues:

1. Lift roof needs a couple of tries to finally lock out into the open position (will thoroughly grease everything, many of the moving parts seem to have dried out)
2. Tailgate needs an ungodly whack to close properly
3. Needs a few turns on the starter to get going, a couple of seconds rather than instant fire
4. It's grimy, including all the blinds and curtains

Regarding (2), is there an adjustment for this anywhere?
Regarding (3), is the 2l engine noted for needing regular HT leads or plugs? It has obviously spent a lot of its c.118k miles at motorway speeds and ~3000rpm.

Anyway so far it's a good experience, I especially love the analogue, mechanical nature of the gauge cluster, which is in stark contrast to every other aspect of the vehicle - are they all incandescent bulbs, even on the 2004 models?

[Bob]

Hi

Regarding the roof it's not uncommon to have to 'assist' with a little push to get it to lock up.

Just age, I fancy.

[mikeonb4c]

Welcome. Roof should be raised with engine running and, for best oomph, revs raised a bit so alternator gets best voltage to motors. Enjoy the new motor. They're fun. Spent several dsys valeting mine when i bought it and it responded well to treatment. I wonder if its starting as well as it should - might be interesting to hear from other 2 litre owners.

[g8dhe]

Please be careful when greasing things! The Gas struts DO NOT need oil or grease or anything other than a clean cloth to polish the lower Ram section. Don't oil or grease the runways either on the roof or the sliding door, they all have wheels that run in them, so its the bearings of the wheels that need oil/grease but not the runways/guides they roll on, otherwise if I see you on the road I'll run ahead of you putting grease on the road!!!!

[TheLongRoad]

The 2.0 ltr is not that bad once you get used to it, in town it’s fine and on country roads it’s fine. Hills challenge it, down and down the gears she goes - but get there in the end. Long gradual climbs are interesting on the motorway. Make sure you use the hold button. Enjoy the ride mate.

Also, I saw my local garage undersealing aa farmers 4x4. You sure you want to do it yourself... messy job.

[cwilliams255]

Dynax s50 into wheel arch cavities can be done by removing little cubby holes in the rear trim as it comes with a long lance. Easiest with trim out though. You’ll want to do rear corners too by removing light clusters and probably drill 2 small holes in these areas under bumper as they are notorious for collecting condensation

I also forced dynax into the wheel arch seam from outside too it’s a thin gap so gets a bit messy as straw is bigger but probably worth it