Silly question I know. but where is the horn hidden.

[TEZ217]

Hi, As your mot is imminent why dont you just pick up the wires for the horn and connect straight to a flip switch, place it somewhere easily reached (right or left handed). It will pass the mot like this no problem, just make the tester aware of its location,
then when you have more time and patience sort out your steering wheel switch at a later date.
Best way to find your way round a bongo is to persevere.

[BongoRaceTruck]

my horn button just makes the relay click, the horn itself works when I power it from the battery. When I mess around with the relays nearest the front drivers side light cluster the clicking sometimes stops but rearranging their order doesnt help.

By elimination: the horn button works, the relay clicks and the horn itself works.

Any suggestions? Thanks

Matt

[g8dhe]

Could be a faulty relay - burnt out contacts - or wiring from relay to horns, try applying power at the relay end to the wire that leads off to the horns, if that works then its the relay, if it doesn't then its wiring from relay to horns.

[sotal]

I had the same last year. It turned out to be a wiring issue. I can't remember the exact cause (I probably posted about it though) but basically the wiring diagram showed that 2 of the terminals under the relays connected together but much further away. There must have been a break between the relays and this join. It was too hard to trace so I just joined those terminals together under the relay box and it has worked perfectly ever since.

[sotal]

https://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/vie ... rn#p695151


There you go, I detailed my findings quite well. Mine is a 1999 diesel. Wiring colours might be different on older models. Cross referencing the wiring diagrams should solve that for you if necessary though.


Not guaranteed to be the same fault but easy enough to follow my procedure to check and if it isn't it, it might lead to the actual cause.

[BongoRaceTruck]

Thanks I'll give it a go, the relay boxes will be a bit difficult to remove as the bolt head is really corroded and I couldn't get a 10/11/12mm socket to get purchase.

I don't really understand the configuration of the relays, I assumed just one would be responsible for the horn but when I swapped and changed the three identical relays in the box it was totally random whether the horn buttons could elicit a click from them or not. If I had a glamorous assistant I could put a finger on top to ascertain which one is actually responsible,however I think there's something funny going on.

Whilst I have a multimeter I doubt whether it will help diagnosis in this case so I'll try joining pairs of terminals under the relay box together and see how I get on.

[sotal]

I made spade connectors up on short wires to allow me to test without removing everything. Then you can join terminals etc. Above it all to make sure it is that.

I don't remember any particular difficulty in removing the relay box though.

[cutlass]

its how must look right horn! http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?t=11839

[BongoRaceTruck]

Tested batteries
Tested fuses
Tested relay (closest one to the drivers indicator assembly is the one) I disassembled it following a youtube tutorial
Fitted new horn
Multimeter shows a change between earth and the single horn connector but from memory it is only 6v ish, maybe not enough to activate the horn.

Any ideas to my next step?

I'm loathed to call an auto electrician!

[BongoRaceTruck]

The wiring diagram shows two live feeds to the "NO" and "COIL" pins on the relay. Using a piece of wire I can make the horn activate with one that reads at 12.23V but not the other that only has 11.8V.

I dont understand as the wiring diagram shows they feed from the same rail, can i bridge between them to equalise the voltage or is there a problem with that?

Matt

[BongoRaceTruck]

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=74018&p=701409#p701409

Sorted, joined the two yellow and red wires together!

Cheers

Matt