roof light..

[Dr Fingers]

..with old style, tube. At my wits end.

Since fitting leisure battery, all interior lights, 12v sockets, radio etc have been connected to that. The interior roof light (not in AFT, just the one above rear passengers) refuses to get up to full brightness. Have tried LED fitment,a new fluorescent tube, but same problem. The original unit was a bit 'flaky' (as in falling apart) , so that has been replaced by one from George at Bongospares. After 3 years, the leisure battery was not in the best of health, so I though 'aha' new leisure battery needed".

I have also fitted a strip of LED 's around the roof, with a dimmer switch, powered by the tailgate light unit rear n/s corner. This works brilliantly, masses of light, but the original roof light is pants.

New battery is in, but still the same problem.

Any sparks on here?

Many thanks

Derek

[helen&tony]

Hi Derek...
If everything has been replaced, it sounds like a faulty earth...OR...the original connector blocks may not be making good contact
Cheers
Helen

[Dr Fingers]

Connector blocks look solid. Where does the unit earth to?

Thanks

Derek

[helen&tony]

Hi Derek...
I couldn't possibly say...I usually find which is the earth wire at the lamp., and run a fresh piece or wire to a good earth point, and I test the supply the same way...run a fresh wire to the light unit. If there's a difference in output, then there's a case of just tracing the wiring until you find the issue. The wiring diagrams on here in the Techie section will give the actual points you can find the earths if you click around, and where the wiring runs go, but I would first test it as I suggest, then go over it with a meter
Cheers
Helen

[helen&tony]

Hi Derek...
Just a thought...is it the door switch not making good contact?.....To be honest, I rewired all mine so the sliding door operates the cab light, and I have an alternative light running from the LB
Cheers
Helen

[cmm303]

Could it just be that in this colder weather these fluorescent tubes take a while to get up to max brightness?

The standard fittings are susceptible to dry joints developing where the connector goes through the circuit board. Eliminate by re-soldering them.

[Dr Fingers]

[quote="cmm303"]Could it just be that in this colder weather these fluorescent tubes take a while to get up to max brightness?

No, I don't think so. This has been a problem for a long time, nothing to do with weather. It's simply not getting enough juice to power either a tube or LED's. Had the same problem with two seperate light units, which tends to suggest the problem isn't within the unit itself..?

Derek

[helen&tony]

Hi Derek
Have you tried running an earth wire direct, yet, then a power wire direct to the LB (with an in-line fuse in it)....I always do that before checking the wiring runs. I is the only sure way to find whether it's wiring or unit.
I did the above with both horns and factory foglights, and in the end re-wired both and cut the old wiring out!
Cheers
Helen

[cmm303]

Hi Derek
Have you tried running an earth wire direct, yet, then a power wire direct to the LB (with an in-line fuse in it)....I always do that before checking the wiring runs. I is the only sure way to find whether it's wiring or unit.
I did the above with both horns and factory foglights, and in the end re-wired both and cut the old wiring out!
Cheers
Helen

The "on with door" and "on all the time" use different earth points. Given that you have swapped out the fitting (including switch I presume), I'd check out the 12v supply first.

Wiring diag here