Sills full of water !

[Gripped]

I pulled off a bung in the rear wheel arch to do some rust proofing, and gallons of water came out. So I went around the other side and pulled out a bung from the underside of the sill, and again loads of water spilled out.

Is this normal??? We have had a lot of rain, but it is concerning.

Cheers

[dnitu001]

No not normal

but then again I have 1 of my bungs missing.

I also have 1 rust hole in each side which lets the water drain out.

but seriously no not normal.

than answer and the reason I do not know.

[Gripped]

Thanks.

Does anyone know how the water is getting in? I've checked the drain holes near the front wheels and they seem to be clear.

I do have a fair bit of waxoyl in my sills, so I wonder if it is blocking a drain somewhere. But presumably water shouldn't get in in the first place.

Thanks in advance.

[mikeonb4c]

Thanks.

Does anyone know how the water is getting in? I've checked the drain holes near the front wheels and they seem to be clear.

I do have a fair bit of waxoyl in my sills, so I wonder if it is blocking a drain somewhere. But presumably water shouldn't get in in the first place.

Thanks in advance.

There's no doubt Bongo design (AFT at least) seems to result in a lot of water running off around the sills. I've sometimes wondered if they might benefit from having shrouded vent holes aimed at allowing water to drain whilst improving ventilation and encouraging drying via venturi effect when in motion).

Have you checked there's no rust through by the bungs at the front of the sills, inside the front wheel arches. If they are compromised, water will be rammed into the sills when on the move. Both mine were going there so I used fibreglass tape patches and dinitrol to repair and protect. Works and lasts extremely well though periodic inspection and renewal of any work like that is necessary.

[Northern Bongolow]

most of the water seems to get in via the rear wheel arches, there are 2 grommets at the end of the sills, are they in place. if the twin layer inner and outer arch is rusting it opens up the joint, this lets water in to the rear arch then it runs straight into the sill.

there are 3-4 grommets in the inner sill under the motor these also may be missing.

when i replaced my rear arches recently i blocked off this access from the rear arch to the sill.
have a look at this you may see how its constructed at the rear.

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... =0#p655512

[mikeonb4c]

most of the water seems to get in via the rear wheel arches, there are 2 grommets at the end of the sills, are they in place. if the twin layer inner and outer arch is rusting it opens up the joint, this lets water in to the rear arch then it runs straight into the sill.

there are 3-4 grommets in the inner sill under the motor these also may be missing.

when i replaced my rear arches recently i blocked off this access from the rear arch to the sill.
have a look at this you may see how its constructed at the rear.

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... =0#p655512

To me though, this doesn't explain why the first areas to rust through on my sills were at the front, where the cross members joins, and along the side towards the front. I think there's another culprit. Certainly a rust through inside the front arch will allow water to ram in, so that should be checked. But I notice how, after being parked up and after rain, a lot of water seems to run out from around the sills. I wonder where it all comes from. I seriously think that intelligent/shrouded venting holes in the sills might be the cleverest thing to do. That way, even if it is getting in, it doesn't accumulate and sit there. When I retire I might even buy a cheap welder and experiment

[helen&tony]

Hi
The front jacking points are on the tapered front member that juts inward , and where it welds onto the chassis is a flange...probably spot-welded, much like the rear cross-member that fails when bolting a tow-bar on it.. The flanges pull away slightly on the front , and rust starts behind them without you seeing, and continues on it's merry way until it perforates...then the water CAN get in...This will probably only occur in VERY wet conditions. Also, the rust can start in the front where the rain comes down behind the plastic liner in the front wheel-arch.
Cheers
Helen

[Diplomat]

Do you habitually park on a slope?


Frank

[mikeonb4c]

Hi
The front jacking points are on the tapered front member that juts inward , and where it welds onto the chassis is a flange...probably spot-welded, much like the rear cross-member that fails when bolting a tow-bar on it.. The flanges pull away slightly on the front , and rust starts behind them without you seeing, and continues on it's merry way until it perforates...then the water CAN get in...This will probably only occur in VERY wet conditions. Also, the rust can start in the front where the rain comes down behind the plastic liner in the front wheel-arch.
Cheers
Helen

Interesting information Helen - I must take a look.

[BongoBongo123]

Do you park on a slope ? I have noticed this can cause water retention issues in different places on most cars/vehicles. Shortly after I got mine I was wondering what that was all about but oddly enough no water has come out or been trapped since.

Now I make sure I turn the orientation of my vehicle more regularly in winter so it faces up and down hill from time to time, it seems to favour facing downwards compared with upwards. Also the Freda has a very open front grill relatively speaking and water gets in and sits on cross members for days when facing upslope in winter so watch that area as well.

edit: sorry just saw Diplomats post saying the same. And thanks also Helen thanks for that tip close to the jacking point front edge, I will put a layer of waxoyl over that today. I can see exactly what you mean. No rust as such but I can see that is a hidden place behind a plastic flap which would stay damp for ages if left to it's own devices. If I am correct, there is a flat horizontal plate facing towards the front of the Bongo welded on the front of the angled thick heavy jacking points either side of the Bongo.

[Diplomat]

Interesting to read about the jacking points.

I never use them on any car, mainly because it is soul destroying watching the body go up until the suspension drops enough for the wheel to eventually start leaving the ground. I always jack under the strongest looking part of the suspension as near as possible to the wheel concerned and get an almost immediate clearance under the tyre.

Curiosity now dictates that I should identify the spots mentioned by Helen. I expect they are detailed in the driver's handbook, but for the reasons above I always skip that section!


Frank

[helen&tony]

Hi
Mike / BB123
When you look at that front member, use some very hot waxoyl in an oil can and squirt it round and joints like that, as there is always movement at such joints...the wax will creep and set, THEN you can plaster waxoyl underseal over...It's always worth a mention not to forget that tubular engine bearer that is open at the ends, and running across the chassis...I often dollop a good spraying in there!
Cheers
Helen

[helen&tony]

Hi
Frank...
Yes, they're in the handbook!....
The best waxoyl jobs are DIY, as you get to notice all sorts of crooks and nannies as you peer under the car....Having owned plenty of cars made in the 60's / 70s, you get to know where cars rot! A 5 year old Ford in those days was almost terminally riddled with rust...2-3 years for a Vauxhall.
Cheers
Helen

[BongoBongo123]

Sorry, I meant the vertical front/leading edge (behind the rear plastic mud guards) of that front jacking mount either side. Yes I have put plenty of Waxoyl around the front metal under there as it is subject to massive road spray.

First of the cold weather coming this weekend so brace yourselves UK dwellers. Hovering around 0C even down south and with wind chill included will feel like -5C apparently. So expect imminent road salting.

[BongoBongo123]

Hi
Frank...
Yes, they're in the handbook!....
The best waxoyl jobs are DIY, as you get to notice all sorts of crooks and nannies as you peer under the car....Having owned plenty of cars made in the 60's / 70s, you get to know where cars rot! A 5 year old Ford in those days was almost terminally riddled with rust...2-3 years for a Vauxhall.
Cheers
Helen

I have owned A Vauxhall Chevette and a Marina Ital.... I am experienced !

Just like my old one, had it for 6 months and at MOT time, he said drive it very gently to the nearest scrap yard immediately.



he he.. reminds me of when I first started driving... passed down the family one of these: