Lo/Hi Coolant alarm

[lizard]

That will complete the set when it is available. Put me on the list.

[haydn callow]

Been out testing the Hi alarm on the road in real life...It defo works as soon as coolant hits the Hi sensor...tested this by finding the steepest hill around and going down hitting the brakes hard...this "slops" the coolant to the front of the tank and the alarm beeps instantly...then stops as soon as the brakes are released....Testing in a "bubbling up" situation is really not possible unless I deliberatly cook my engine which is a non starter...I'm sure it would activate the alarm but cannot prove it at this point...I'm going to try putting a tube in and blowing some bubbles but so far I haven't managed to do this co's of the baffels.....Might have to move the sensor around a bit.

[helen&tony]

Hi
Haydn
that's what I meant ....I'm glad someone else has senior moments...
Cheers
Helen

[daveblueozzie]

Is there anymore news on this new add on , I left the expansion cap off a few months ago, luckily the low coolant alarm did warn me, but it would be nice to have the extra security that i have been a plonker and left the cap off.

[haydn callow]

If you lave the cap off the low coolant alarm will inform you as you found out. The Hi add on is on test on my Bongo and will be on 4 more within 2 weeks. This is intended to warn you if a air lock is expelled or a head gasket goes to save further damage. We will report on the trials and let you all know when they are available. They are just a bit of "extra" protection.
Very simple quick fit.

[missfixit70]

Fitted my hi level alarm today, dead easy, one hole in the tank, screw in the connector, I put mine directly below the pressure cap, run the cable through to the cab, connect the bullet connectors in between the existing low coolant alarm cable & the mk2 ciggy socket alarm, connect the power cable to the ciggy socket power supply, cable tie in, job done.
As Haydn has said, it's a difficult one to test in a real life situation, but by disconnecting the lead to the tank & immersing it in the coolant, it alarmed after 5 seconds. I took it for a run & tried sharp downhill braking on a steep hill (1 in 5ish), no spurious alarms due to the 5 second time delay that has been added, so hopefully it should do what it says on the tin. Just gotta pry out the tailgating audi that's now wedged in the boot

[haydn callow]

Well done Kirsty. As you say it's a hard one to prove in real life situations as you need a boil over to activate it in real life. All we can say for sure is that As far as the Hi coolant level alarm add on is concerned. it's sole function is to indicate by visual and audible alarm a sustained high coolant level within the header tank. There will be another 4 trial kits fitted in the next few days and providing all is well they will be available to anyone interested before the end of January. We belive that..for coolant to be ejected from the header tank via the pressure cap the tank has to be full of coolant and this would activate the alarm.
If anyone has any reason to belive this is not the case we would be interested in their views...As I say ...hard one to prove and as we do not have spare engines to destroy testing, only time will tell.
Fitting this "add on" in no way affects the functioning of the already fitted LCA.

[daveblueozzie]

i will be interested in the new add on please let me know how much and when its ready.
thanks Dave.

[haydn callow]

Will post on here when we are happy with the trial ones and I have some ready.
I know you have a LCA fitted Dave but for everyone else this is a "add on" to your already fitted LCA. (you must have a LCA to fit this add on)

[Matt&JoyBongling]

I've just installed my Hi Coolant Alarm add on kit and thought I'd share some info.

I wanted a High Coolant alarm kit as I thought it would be another weapon against the small but real risk of coolant loss. Haydn's add on kit arrived promptly & the contents looked well constructed, consisting of the high coolant alarm module, probe, connectors, drill bit & razor (for cleaning the drilled hole & used for splicing the 12v feeds).

The instructions were clear but I decided not to cut the existing 12v feed & use the supplied connectors but simply stripped off some insulation & spliced them together.

I had two minor difficulties; the first being accessing the location where the high coolant sensor was placed - it was a little tight and I wondered if I could put it directly below the expansion pressure cap rather than behind it; this would have been easier to drill & screw in the probe. The second difficulty was pushing the yellow connector through from the bonnet area; it would have been easier to push through the smaller connector that links to the high probe.

The testing worked well & I hope never to hear it in anger.

It took about 30 mins but I am sure that I could do the job again in less than 15 mins.

Photo 1

All wires in place: Yellow wire = top probe. Blue wire with red & blank insulation = low coolant probe. Purple wire & blue wire = earth (purple wire from another unrelated loom).



Photo 2

Coolant warning light on - part of the testing process. The light was installed into the dashboard when the low coolant alarm was installed in the summer.

[haydn callow]

I had two minor difficulties; the first being accessing the location where the high coolant sensor was placed - it was a little tight and I wondered if I could put it directly below the expansion pressure cap rather than behind it; this would have been easier to drill & screw in the probe. The second difficulty was pushing the yellow connector through from the bonnet area; it would have been easier to push through the smaller connector that links to the high probe.



I was a bit worried about putting the sensor on the front of the tank in case we got false alarms going down hill/braking..Kirsty has hers just below the neck and with the 5 sec delay has so far reported no problems.....did you unmount the tank to fit the sensor and tilt it forwards.??(it is important it goes in at right angles to get a good seal)
Regarding pushing the wire through the bulkhead...No reason why you could'nt push the male bullet through from the battery side (just unplug it from the module !!) I just temp plugged that in so there could be no doubt where it went.
Did you solder the red wires together ??

Anyway...thanks for fitting it and pleased it went o.k. I think any one else can put the sensor in the front/just below the neck....

[Matt&JoyBongling]

I did not dismount the tank but it went it close to vertical and was tightly screwed down. I assumed that as long as the probe makes contact with any rising coolant, it would not matter if it was not perfectly straight.

I did disconnect the male connector and pushed it through a small hole that I had cut in the rubber gromet when I installed the low alarm. It would have been easier to pass the smaller female connector on the other end through but it was not a big issue.

I will solder the two red wires together but have just wrapped it in insulating tape for the time being as I have more lead work to do when I finish off my alarm and try and work out why my speedo stopped working recently.

[haydn callow]

I did not dismount the tank but it went it close to vertical and was tightly screwed down. I assumed that as long as the probe makes contact with any rising coolant, it would not matter if it was not perfectly straight.

I did disconnect the male connector and pushed it through a small hole that I had cut in the rubber gromet when I installed the low alarm. It would have been easier to pass the smaller female connector on the other end through but it was not a big issue.

I will solder the two red wires together but have just wrapped it in insulating tape for the time being as I have more lead work to do when I finish off my alarm and try and work out why my speedo stopped working recently.

Keep a eye on the sensor screw...probably o.k. but really should be verticle...just 2 bolts and the tank lifts forward and then plenty of room. Don't try getting it stright now...If you want to do that I can send you a fatter screw so you could redrill that hole.
The reason we need to get the screw vertical is the underside of the tag closes the seal....I'm sure it will be fine

[haydn callow]

To those of you who have shown a interest in this new kit. I now have a limited number available so please pm me if you are still interested.
Below is a photo of where we have decided to place the sensor...this makes it a extreamly easy fit..10 mins at most.


and below is the simple diagram of the module end wiring/fitting.

[missfixit70]

Please note - you don't have to saw the tank in half as in the photo above