Flashing hold light

[Merlot man]

Good evening and a very happy Christmas to you all .
In the last couple of days as I've been driving and the bongo the hold light is flashing on and off . Could anyone advice me as to how I might go about clearing it and what the possible causes are .
As I understand it it's a safe guard for the gearbox and only allows it to go to 3rd gear , mine was reving at 2250 rpm at 60 MPH , does this sound correct IE should I be reving lower at that speed if all was ok ?
Also the shift button won't click in and out on the shifter like it's not engaging , should it or simply move in and out with no clicking . On a side note the bus sometimes won't start in the park position and I have to move it to the neutral position so I was wondering if I had a faulty shifter assembly IE hold button and starting issue .
Any and all advice will be greatly received .
Thanks in advance and I hope Santa comes to you all bearing Bongo related gifts
Brian

[g8dhe]

It signals the the ATX computer s signalling a fault you need to read the fault code from the diagnostic connector see http://www.philmcfadden.co.uk/MazdaDiagnosticBox.htm or the Factsheets in the members area.

[teenmal]

The speed to RPM sounds about correct, try 2000 RPM in top (lock up) the vehicle should be traveling at 50MPH.

[Merlot man]

Thanks for the replies gents .
I'm new to this I'm afraid so how do I read the codes off and where is the diagnosis block on 95 2.5 TD , I know , I'm a numpty
Nice to hear that the revs to speed sound about correct , I assume that means the bus is in top gear IE overdrive or 4 th gear, would this mean that the selector solenoids in the gearbox would appear to be working ?
Maybe I'm being over sensitive but I did feel that she was engaging gear a bit more harshly then normal it might help with the diagnosis
Thanks again for all the help and happy Christmas to all you bongonuts
Brian

[teenmal]

Not saying that its your problem (if any) but its always worthwhile checking the gearbox fluid condition and level ,and if in doubt change the fluid and fit a new filter.

[the1andonly]

The flashing hold means you have gearbox fault
it needs diagnosing
you should find what you need in this lot bellow which are extracts from various sources
none of it my own work.
To my Knowledge there are no mazda plugs available the one on ebay are not wired to connections required for obd1 only obd2.
ive cut 2 up in the hope of creating a reader, if anyone knows of a source we'd like to know
the Bongo socket is bellow the glovebox in the passenger footwell.


http://mazda626.net/topic/39240-djdevon ... -i4-or-v6/
http://www.philmcfadden.co.uk/MazdaDiagnosticBox.htm



MECS-II (OBD-I) Diagnostics
1993-1995 Mazda MX-6/626/Ford Probe (2.0L MTX & 2.5L ATX or MTX)
Source: http://homepage.ntlw...nt.htm#malfsrso
Source: http://www.scpoc.com...ntMod/codes.htm
 



USA MECS-II Diagnostic Connector


To enter the car into diagnostic mode for MCU or MECS-II you must jumper pins C (TEN) and E (GND).  However if that does not work (as might be the case on European versions) then try to jumper pin C (TEN) to the negative battery terminal.
 

 
European MECS-II Diagnostic Connector
 

 

 
 

 
 
To learn about the steps after getting your car into diagnostic mode for MECSII equipped vehicles please read Snailman's guide.

A = FEN = trouble code output (engine control computer)
B = MEN = switch monitor output (engine control computer)
C = TEN = diagnostic-mode input (engine control computer)
D = +B = switched battery voltage
E = GND = ground
F = FAT = trouble code output (automatic transmission control computer)
G = FBS = trouble code output (anti-lock brakes (ABS) control computer)
H = FAC = trouble code output (? not documented for North American vehicles)
J = FWS = trouble code output (? not documented for North American vehicles)
K = FSC = trouble code output (cruise (speed) control computer)
L = - = not used
M = TAT = diagnostic-mode input (automatic transmission control computer)
N = TBS = diagnostic-mode input (anti-lock brakes (ABS) control computer)
P = TAC = diagnostic-mode input (? not documented for North American vehicles)
Q = TWS = diagnostic-mode input (? not documented for North American vehicles)
R = TSC = diagnostic-mode input (cruise (speed) control computer)
S = - = not used
T = FAB = trouble code output (air-bag diagnostic monitor computer)
U = IG- = igniter coil output (for connection to external tachometer)
V = GND = ground
W = TFA = diagnostic-mode input (? not documented for North American vehicles)
X = F/P = fuel pump relay coil (ground to activate fuel pump)
Y = TAB = horn relay
Z = - = not used
3 = - = not used

MECS-II (CEL) Check Engine Light codes
These are the main check engine light codes for MECS-II 626's. You put the car into diagnostic mode by using a jumper wire between the C (TEN) & E (GROUND) pins of the diagnostic box under the hood of your car.

Code = Memory = Circuit Diagnosed
02 = Yes = 'NE2' crankshaft position sensor
03 = Yes = 'G' camshaft position sensor
04 = Yes = 'NE1' camshaft/crankshaft position sensor
05 = Yes = Knock sensor
08 = Yes = Volume Air Flow sensor (VAF)
09 = Yes = Coolant temperature sensor (CTS)
10 = Yes = Intake air temperature sensor (IAT)
12 = Yes = Throttle position sensor (TPS)
14 = Yes = Barometric pressure sensor
15 = Yes = LHO2S inactivation error
16 = Yes = Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system
17 = Yes = LHO2S inversion error
23 = Yes = RHO2S inactivation error
24 = Yes = RHO2S inversion error
25 = Yes = Fuel pressure regulator control solenoid
26 = No = Canister purge solenoid
28 = No = EGR vacuum solenoid
29 = No = EGR vent solenoid
34 = No = Idle air control (IAC) solenoid
41 = No = VRIS #1 solenoid
46 = No = VRIS #2 solenoid
67 = No = LFAN relay (1993 only)
69 = Yes = ECTF sensor (1993 only)

(HOLD) Automatic Transmission (ATX) Malfunction codes
Automatic transmission codes can be read by connecting the TAT and GND pins (see above for the location of this pin) and watching the "hold" light on the instrument cluster. The codes are read exactly as they are when reading the engine codes, except that the Hold light flashes, not the Check Engine Light. A summary of the codes and the reasons:

01 = NE1 (crankshaft position sensor)
06 = Vehicle speed sensor
12 = Throttle position sensor
14 = BARO sensor (located within PCME)
55 = Vehicle speed pulse generator
56 = ATF thermosensor
57 = Reduce torque signal 1
58 = Reduce torque signal 2
59 = Torque reduced/ECT sensor
60 = 1-2 shift solenoid valve
61 = 2-3 shift solenoid valve
62 = 3-4 shift solenoid valve
63 = converter lock-up solenoid valve
64 = 3-2 timing solenoid valve
65 = converter lock-up valve
66 = line pressure solenoid valve

(ABS) Anti-Lock Braking System Malfunction codes
Anti-lock braking (ABS) system codes are read when the TBS and GND pins are connected in the Diagnostic connector (see above). The codes are read, again, like the engine codes, but now on the ABS light on the instrument cluster. A summary of codes and the reasons:

11 = Right front wheel speed sensor or rotor
12 = Left front wheel speed sensor or rotor
13 = Right rear wheel speed sensor or rotor
14 = Left rear wheel speed sensor or rotor
15 = Wheel speed sensor
22 = Hydraulic unit harness
51 = Fail-safe relay
53 = Motor or motor relay
61 = ABS control unit

(SRS) Supplemental Restraint System Malfunction codes
The supplemental restraint (SRS), more commonly known as the "air bag" system will flash the highest priority code on the air-bag lamp on the dash with no need for any pin in the Diagnostic box to be grounded. The codes are read, again, like the engine codes, but now on the Air Bag light on the instrument cluster. A summary of codes and the reasons (NOTE: these are from a 1993 Ford Service Manual. Later models with dual airbags (1994+) may have additional codes not covered here. Email me if you encounter one. Also, I hope but am unsure if these apply to the MX-6...):

In order of priority from highest to lowest:
- = No air bag lamp: diagnostic monitor (DM), ignition power or bulb circuit
- = Continuous lamp: DM disconnected or inoperative
12 = Low battery voltage
13 = Air bag circuit or crash sensor shorted to ground
21 = Safing sensor mounted incorrectly
22 = Safing sensor: output shorted to battery voltage
23 = Safing sensor input feed or return circuit open
24 = Open in circuit 944B or low-resistance in crash sensor(s)
32 = Driver's side air-bag / safing sensor: high resistance or open
33 = Pin 7 not grounded at DM
34 = Driver's side air-bag / safing sensor: low resistance or shorted
35 = Low resistance across pins 8 and 9 of DM
41 = Crash sensor circuit: high resistance or open
44 = RH crash sensor not mounted properly
45 = Center (radiator) crash sensor not mounted properly
46 = LH crash sensor not mounted properly
51 = DM internal fuse: blown and short to ground no longer exists
52 = Backup-power supply: voltage boost fault
53 = Internal DM fault
- = Rapid continuous flashing or air-bag lamp: all crash sensors disconnected





[Gasy]

You say there's a problem with the shift button
I'd start there
As said flashing hold button is gear box prob
Might only need a spray of lube
Think there is a cable from shifter that gets sticky
I'd spray some silicone spray down the cable sleeve at both ends and on the button mechanism to start

[mikeonb4c]

The Shift (HOLD) button has never felt like a mechanical connection to me, more like an electrical one. But i don't know - can anyone clarify? I'm just thinking that if it IS electrical then silicon spray may do more harm than good?

[g8dhe]

Yes its electrical, the switch is directly behind the button itself.

[teenmal]

The Shift and Hold buttons are two entirely different items, the Shift is an interlock button that works a cable and the Hold is an electrical gear box function control. It wont do any harm giving the Shift mech a wee lube and check for wear, and check the Hold button Switch and electrical connections.

[g8dhe]

Agreed I think there was just some confusion between what was being referred to

[mikeonb4c]

What is the shift button please?

EDIT: OK worked out what the SHIFT button is. Perhaps my confusion was because i wasn't aware of any connection between the Shift Lever release button being operated and the HOLD light coming on. On the other hand the HOLD button does shift the gears down and operating it does bring the HOLD button on. I wouldn't want the OP to get similarly confused and spray silicon stuff into the HOLD button assembly.

[Merlot man]

Help everyone and thank you all for your replies , I really appreciate what you are doing .
Thanks to the great post that theoneandonly posted I've ran a diagnosis on the bus and the following codes came up for the auto gearbox
60. 1-2 shift solenoid valve
64. 3-2 timing solenoid valve
I assume this means I need a solenoid valve pack like this one from Mazda bongo .com
http://mazdabongo.com/catalog/mazda-bon ... ic-models/
If this is the case , how difficult a project are these to fit ?
Are there any instruction/hints /tips as to how this is done ?
As I understand it the gearbox sump is removed so while I'm there I intend looking at the ATF filter .
Is it possible to replace this filter or can it be cleaned using petrol ?
Finally I'll be replacing the ATF , how much does the 'box take ,I have 5.5 litres in my head of dexron III
As before thank you all in advance and any and all help is greatly appreciated
Brian

[the1andonly]

I have no experience of gearbox problems and how to repair.
The dropped sump will take about 5l but if you evacuate the oil cooler a total of 7 is needed.
Suck out the oil if you can (the oil level is higher than the join level,
the filter is easy to remove and clean with petrol. I believe later models have a replacement filter.
there are afew posts here on how change even a you tube vid

[Merlot man]

Thanks the 1andonly
I've found the YouTube video on the ATF replacement and all seems easy enough
Can anyone give me advice or help about the solenoid pack replacement ?
Thank you all for your help
Brian