I suspect a lot of old Bongos are bought and sold with (some of) these issues and at good prices so personally i wouldn't sweat it. Bongolia is doing an exceptionally deep investigation, which will be scary but is making for a really interesting story - not sure i can recall a Bongo getting this thorough a metalwork restoration. The result should be most interesting, the more so if the whacky idea of central heating gets successfully implemented - many rivers to cross on that oneroosmith wrote:This has now turned into something very surreal, it's like you have picked up a different Bongo to the one I sold! Ours had some rusty arches starting to show through but otherwise looked in really good condition inside and out. We had it for four years and none of this came to light. It's interesting, horrifying and eye-opening all at the same time.
I'm a DIY tinkerer not a mechanic but through doing stuff myself thought I knew the Bongo well. Just goes to show. Also makes you wonder how bad others are that are out there, as I know plenty of others local to me that don't have anywhere near as much love, time and money spent on them as mine. How many are death traps?
Bongo 4wd refurb *DO NOT DELETE*
Moderators: Doone, westonwarrior
- mikeonb4c
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 22877
- Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:49 pm
- Location: Living with Mango Bongo in the North West but with a tendency to roam
- Contact:
Re: Bongo 4wd refurb
Re: Bongo 4wd refurb
Thanks for the suggestion.mikeonb4c wrote:Good question but i've been taking pics on my phone for 2-3 years now and haven't reached the limit yet and pics are all on my phones sd card also if i should need to archive/delete from google. Main thing is getting the account set up then pics on smartfone are automatically uploaded. Don't know how you'd size and include pics in a post on here but does that matter really?Bongolia wrote:Yes it does work and no ads on the PC anyhow.
What is the maximum allowed storage wise, coz this could be a long haul/
Here's a link to a shared album. It took hardly any time to create and copy the linkbfor pasting here (shows pics of welding i had done in the summer!)
https://goo.gl/photos/qUWLX1E5nwwe15ZS7
Google says unlimited storage if resized so thats just the ticket!
Signed up last night
Today's schedule is strategic Waxoyl top up holes,joint sealant removal, wash off rust treatment and zinc painting. So that will be my test data.
I could see the wheel arch cold repair you talked of in the images, looks good, they look like eyebrow spats and it keeps any refinishing tight and local too.
Re: Bongo 4wd refurb
Following with interest as I'm sure my Bongo wouldn't look too great when stripped out and am wondering about having that done as a bit of a treat to an old vehicle. I didn't pay a lot for it 4 yrs ago but have invested quite a bit of time, effort and some money in keeping it mechanically going - not as much as some but more than most owners out there. Welding and bodywork isn't my bag so I'd need to pay for the work, at a wild guess, much the same as going and buying another newer bongo. Jury is still out, but my hope would be that my old Bongo would still be around after the newer bongo had gone to its makermikeonb4c wrote:I suspect a lot of old Bongos are bought and sold with (some of) these issues and at good prices so personally i wouldn't sweat it. Bongolia is doing an exceptionally deep investigation, which will be scary but is making for a really interesting story - not sure i can recall a Bongo getting this thorough a metalwork restoration. The result should be most interesting, the more so if the whacky idea of central heating gets successfully implemented - many rivers to cross on that oneroosmith wrote:This has now turned into something very surreal, it's like you have picked up a different Bongo to the one I sold! Ours had some rusty arches starting to show through but otherwise looked in really good condition inside and out. We had it for four years and none of this came to light. It's interesting, horrifying and eye-opening all at the same time.
I'm a DIY tinkerer not a mechanic but through doing stuff myself thought I knew the Bongo well. Just goes to show. Also makes you wonder how bad others are that are out there, as I know plenty of others local to me that don't have anywhere near as much love, time and money spent on them as mine. How many are death traps?
Chris with BertieB
'96 White unconverted AFT 2.5L Diesel 4WD
'96 White unconverted AFT 2.5L Diesel 4WD
Re: Bongo 4wd refurb
What I keep in mind is this vehicle is 20 years old been moved into an environment it wasn't designed for i.e. salted roads and has had no cavity protection at all in that time.mikeonb4c wrote:I suspect a lot of old Bongos are bought and sold with (some of) these issues and at good prices so personally i wouldn't sweat it. Bongolia is doing an exceptionally deep investigation, which will be scary but is making for a really interesting story - not sure i can recall a Bongo getting this thorough a metalwork restoration. The result should be most interesting, the more so if the whacky idea of central heating gets successfully implemented - many rivers to cross on that oneroosmith wrote:This has now turned into something very surreal, it's like you have picked up a different Bongo to the one I sold! Ours had some rusty arches starting to show through but otherwise looked in really good condition inside and out. We had it for four years and none of this came to light. It's interesting, horrifying and eye-opening all at the same time.
I'm a DIY tinkerer not a mechanic but through doing stuff myself thought I knew the Bongo well. Just goes to show. Also makes you wonder how bad others are that are out there, as I know plenty of others local to me that don't have anywhere near as much love, time and money spent on them as mine. How many are death traps?
Those that are imported now and have had thorough cavity protection so should last a goodly time anyhow the Bongos uniqueness makes it worth doing.
I think they will in the future be regarded as a classic. Just look at the Morris Minor, VW`s,Mini all produced in large numbers and very common at the time and look at what a following those vehicles have and the prices they can command now.
- mikeonb4c
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 22877
- Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:49 pm
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- Contact:
Re: Bongo 4wd refurb
I agree with you 100% Bongolia - i knew it the moment i clapped eyes on one 12 or so years ago. My 20k+ posts evidence this passion ha ha. When i first joined BF I suggested to the Bongomeister that a great strapline for a redesigned BF sticker might read "Tomorrow's legend today". I got some blank expressions i suspect but the years seem to have supported that claim. My other old cars were Morris 1000 (traveller, convertible, 4 door saloon), 1955 Wolsey 6/90, MG ZB Varitone Magnette (best car until the Bongo), A35 van (British racing green, showroom condition, bought for £300, sold 2 years later for £500 as i had no garage and it needed one). And then there were the classic bikes.......
But the Bongo is the best of them all, incredible value for money and as practical a classic as you could wish for. And the diesel is the one for me, whatever its issues (and they're not many, especially if maintained properly). Hope you get a lot of pleasure from yours once its sorted.
But the Bongo is the best of them all, incredible value for money and as practical a classic as you could wish for. And the diesel is the one for me, whatever its issues (and they're not many, especially if maintained properly). Hope you get a lot of pleasure from yours once its sorted.
Re: Bongo 4wd refurb
"The Wasp"....Bongolia wrote:Presently sitting in a darkened room with dark glasses, darkened screen and LED lit keyboard.
Bored stiff, I thought I would turn my attention to naming the new Bongo![]()
I am wracking my brain to think of a fitting name for aforementioned vehicle.
I wonder if there are any of you out there in Bongoland with any suggestions?
All names will be considered.![]()
There may even be a prize for the best suggestion so come on peeps don`t be shy I need help here!
Rita?
Re: Bongo 4wd refurb
Yes!rita wrote:"The Wasp"....Bongolia wrote:Presently sitting in a darkened room with dark glasses, darkened screen and LED lit keyboard.
Bored stiff, I thought I would turn my attention to naming the new Bongo![]()
I am wracking my brain to think of a fitting name for aforementioned vehicle.
I wonder if there are any of you out there in Bongoland with any suggestions?
All names will be considered.![]()
There may even be a prize for the best suggestion so come on peeps don`t be shy I need help here!
Rita?
That is the one !
The Bongo Apatchy will hereafter be known as...... "The Wasp".
I may even do it two tone black and yellow.
You have won yourself a complete set of cardboard rust repair templates.
Congratulations Rita.
Re: Bongo 4wd refurb
N/S/F floor and flitch & A panel.
Similar rust points to O/S would appear common points on Bongos.
Easy check lift carpet and prod under w/arch, harder to see without opening the wheel house box is the lower A pilar box.
Below link shows areas after clearing it out.
I Hope!
https://goo.gl/photos/ECus6u3ZUjjH5Qej8
On looking down chassis leg with the camera what appeared to be part of the heavy gauge chassis leg corroded and detached so floor pan above was opened to check it out as well as cutting out overlap panel.
https://goo.gl/photos/eBEpp5vPAAujp3j88
This is what appeared on camera as the corrosion, a lump of PU sealant.
https://goo.gl/photos/7WfEeTMMMFyR5Hqj9
Right did that work before I carry on?
Similar rust points to O/S would appear common points on Bongos.
Easy check lift carpet and prod under w/arch, harder to see without opening the wheel house box is the lower A pilar box.
Below link shows areas after clearing it out.
I Hope!
https://goo.gl/photos/ECus6u3ZUjjH5Qej8
On looking down chassis leg with the camera what appeared to be part of the heavy gauge chassis leg corroded and detached so floor pan above was opened to check it out as well as cutting out overlap panel.
https://goo.gl/photos/eBEpp5vPAAujp3j88
This is what appeared on camera as the corrosion, a lump of PU sealant.
https://goo.gl/photos/7WfEeTMMMFyR5Hqj9
Right did that work before I carry on?
- the1andonly
- Tribal Elder
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Re: Bongo 4wd refurb
works fine
Re: Bongo 4wd refurb
Thank Chrisd!
Re: Bongo 4wd refurb
To continue....
these are images from the wheel house the painted close up, sorry have to master phone camera as well as learn Google stuff, shows a piece of MIG spatter this is what you get when it blows back creating little balls of molten metal these burn into paint work, as well as ears, if not covered and if not removed the result is what you see in the other two images,one inside the wheel house and the other out. You can see there is no flaring of rust just the holes. Having burnt of the paint the rot starts around the edge. if this is then covered with a nice bit of damp underfelt like the Bongo uses you have problems further down the line.
They are not going to affect the strength of the panel. Ordinarily ,if I still had Oxy Acet I would braze these in but here they will get a mushroom fill of PU sealant after Zincing.
https://goo.gl/photos/cgCjT2FE61LibLC56
Panels cut and welded in after zinc weld through applied.
The weld beads look Kack but they have penetrated and that is the important thing,once the area has been zinced the seams will get a covering of PU sealant and then Stonechip will go over that so they will not be visible until the next time!
Thats the thing I dont like about MIG welding is the amount of clean up afterwards.
Oh and Arc eye of course
https://goo.gl/photos/dYMyesEwX9HAzo228
This is the condition of the NS wheel house box, a total contrast to the O/S no serious corrosion here thankfully.
https://goo.gl/photos/h4kdG6ZwUghoWC8e7
This is the repair panels first treated with Fertan and then 24 hours later.
https://goo.gl/photos/ssUJ2TciMLUDBTiB9
This is a test piece. I needed to see if the Feratn would make an effective etch primer of sorts and it does. It required a scratch with a drill bit to loosen the zinc and the Fertan coating is still visible under neath. Compare this to the other side that had a roughen with a course Scotch pad. I was able to remove it with by finger nail.
The aerosol is weld through zinc paint. This not the same stuff we used in the past that was made by 3M & Wurth. This is a far superior formulation. Burn off is very local and it helps with the weld it evens out the conductivity when going across a rusted surface thereby reducing blow back and the spatter seen earlier.
The second image was taken by a USB endoscope attached to my phone/ camera whilst checking penetration of the OS screen pillar. You can see the burn back is very tight. It aint cheap at 20 quid a go but it is only used local to the weld.
https://goo.gl/photos/5ekp1djiiJBwsB1U8
Zinc painted floors and flitch areas. The paint used here is Davids Zinc 138 or 183? Something like that.
Panels are DA`d to key apart from the Fertan areas they are just washed down with warm soapy water to retain the protection and also the etch.
I dilute the first coat 50/50 with cellulose thinner so it is almost like water then, having previously eased back any overlapping panels and wired brushed out any sealant -disc wire wheel in a drill and warm the seam sealant with a blow torch- I run it into those areas as well as into the weld bead edges the idea being to get as much protection between those laps as possible before closing them up later after all has cured.
Because the thinner flashes off quickly you can second coat within 10 minutes in a warmish environment.
This will now sit like this for 2/3 days to allow it fully thru cure before the seams will be sealed with a PU sealant prior to top coating.
https://goo.gl/photos/otMDKNifa8zkc5g59
Nearly forgot this. The flitch patch. It received the same treatment as the rest but I didn't get any images.
https://goo.gl/photos/yZmXSWssePjpr5im9
Friday I will be checking out the roof and looking for where the mig spatter came from and also the little piece of cardboard used as backing for the filler in the roof!
I do hope that lot made sense and that the images were view-able and in the right order!
Let me know.
PLeeeeze

these are images from the wheel house the painted close up, sorry have to master phone camera as well as learn Google stuff, shows a piece of MIG spatter this is what you get when it blows back creating little balls of molten metal these burn into paint work, as well as ears, if not covered and if not removed the result is what you see in the other two images,one inside the wheel house and the other out. You can see there is no flaring of rust just the holes. Having burnt of the paint the rot starts around the edge. if this is then covered with a nice bit of damp underfelt like the Bongo uses you have problems further down the line.
They are not going to affect the strength of the panel. Ordinarily ,if I still had Oxy Acet I would braze these in but here they will get a mushroom fill of PU sealant after Zincing.
https://goo.gl/photos/cgCjT2FE61LibLC56
Panels cut and welded in after zinc weld through applied.
The weld beads look Kack but they have penetrated and that is the important thing,once the area has been zinced the seams will get a covering of PU sealant and then Stonechip will go over that so they will not be visible until the next time!
Thats the thing I dont like about MIG welding is the amount of clean up afterwards.
Oh and Arc eye of course
https://goo.gl/photos/dYMyesEwX9HAzo228
This is the condition of the NS wheel house box, a total contrast to the O/S no serious corrosion here thankfully.
https://goo.gl/photos/h4kdG6ZwUghoWC8e7
This is the repair panels first treated with Fertan and then 24 hours later.
https://goo.gl/photos/ssUJ2TciMLUDBTiB9
This is a test piece. I needed to see if the Feratn would make an effective etch primer of sorts and it does. It required a scratch with a drill bit to loosen the zinc and the Fertan coating is still visible under neath. Compare this to the other side that had a roughen with a course Scotch pad. I was able to remove it with by finger nail.
The aerosol is weld through zinc paint. This not the same stuff we used in the past that was made by 3M & Wurth. This is a far superior formulation. Burn off is very local and it helps with the weld it evens out the conductivity when going across a rusted surface thereby reducing blow back and the spatter seen earlier.
The second image was taken by a USB endoscope attached to my phone/ camera whilst checking penetration of the OS screen pillar. You can see the burn back is very tight. It aint cheap at 20 quid a go but it is only used local to the weld.
https://goo.gl/photos/5ekp1djiiJBwsB1U8
Zinc painted floors and flitch areas. The paint used here is Davids Zinc 138 or 183? Something like that.
Panels are DA`d to key apart from the Fertan areas they are just washed down with warm soapy water to retain the protection and also the etch.
I dilute the first coat 50/50 with cellulose thinner so it is almost like water then, having previously eased back any overlapping panels and wired brushed out any sealant -disc wire wheel in a drill and warm the seam sealant with a blow torch- I run it into those areas as well as into the weld bead edges the idea being to get as much protection between those laps as possible before closing them up later after all has cured.
Because the thinner flashes off quickly you can second coat within 10 minutes in a warmish environment.
This will now sit like this for 2/3 days to allow it fully thru cure before the seams will be sealed with a PU sealant prior to top coating.
https://goo.gl/photos/otMDKNifa8zkc5g59
Nearly forgot this. The flitch patch. It received the same treatment as the rest but I didn't get any images.
https://goo.gl/photos/yZmXSWssePjpr5im9
Friday I will be checking out the roof and looking for where the mig spatter came from and also the little piece of cardboard used as backing for the filler in the roof!
I do hope that lot made sense and that the images were view-able and in the right order!
Let me know.
PLeeeeze
- mikeonb4c
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 22877
- Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:49 pm
- Location: Living with Mango Bongo in the North West but with a tendency to roam
- Contact:
Re: Bongo 4wd refurb
Photos working great. An amazing project to follow. You do realise you just got yourself a new line of business. People will be queuing up for your services, should you be willing to offer them 
Re: Bongo 4wd refurb
Looking good here. 
Re: Bongo 4wd refurb
Roof
OK so this is the area I looked at today. The images show the roof after the filler was removed to expose the old repairs.I had to get through a half inch wodge of filler on the frontmost section, the MIG welded one.
The second patch is interesting as it would seem that a pin or poke welder was used here, you can see the very small spot weld marks around the periphery of the patch. This type of welder is not generally found in a body shop it being more used in the aerospace industry.
Basically it is used for single side welding of very thin metals 24 SWG top panel being about its limit.This would explain the fairy rings found in the roof as seen in the PB images (currently off line) that I mistook for pulling studs.
https://goo.gl/photos/dZZczVSNtu82yrHz9
This is what I had mistaken for a piece of card it is in fact cut from a tin can and as you can see from the printing its Japanese. So this roof repair was almost certainly carried out before shipping, worrying! In the other image you can see clearly the fairy rings.
https://goo.gl/photos/u6mpu4BE3jp1aD659
This is the MIG patch at the top of the screen pillar, the one buried in filler, as it is being opened up.
I thought that this was the point where the screen pillar would be let in and I had expected to find corrosion around the over lap joddle. I believe this is not the connecting point at all as there appears to be a factory joddle further back and this brazed as you would expect to find.
Who ever carried out this repair, Nippon or UK, has welded the outer skin screen panel patch to the inner cant rail sub assembly and so blocked the run off for any moisture build up leading to the extensive corrosion in the surrounding area. I wonder if anyone out there can put up the panel exploded view for this area so I might confirm my suspicions?
After putting a camera down the offside there appears no connection between the sub assembly and screen pillar, although the gap is tiny.
If this is a connection point then it is a design flaw for the reasons stated earlier.
https://goo.gl/photos/74m7hY4y8Ab1PnLQ8
It might be a idea for other owners out there to treat this area if it has not already been done.
It is a simple strip out. You will probably be able to do it by easing down the headlining.
This is the area that needs the squirt. X marks the spot. If you have a probe then direct it rightward and that should allow enough jollop to roll in behind the screen flange at this point. The sub assembly masks the rest of the screen flange. I will have a look and see of there is somewhere that will allow access to that bit later.
https://goo.gl/photos/CstSWBv4XJZ4Nu5T9
In these pics you can see the sub assembly from outside under the roof skin and inside the van, dunno if tin tops are the same, that reinforces the roof. The roof outer is just a skin and will have little to do with the overall roof strength.
The corrosion that occurs on the roof panel outer skin is caused by corrosion occurring in that sub assembly and "leaking" through to the thin outer skin. It is not a break down in the guttering sealant as I first thought.
The roof skin attaches to the flange of the sub assy and thats where the corrosion starts.Certainly on this Bongo the outer skin rusting is fairly local to the cross rails and the factory joint. but a good squirt in that sub assembly boxing would not go amiss.
https://goo.gl/photos/NpAyEB6vD8gpvLcU6
This image is taken inside the sub assy.
https://goo.gl/photos/51A6bi8BLots3ZuB8
These images show the area of the MIG patch after cutting out, dressing and Fertan-ing ready for patching and the corrosion caused to the screen pillar by the botched repair.
In the pic of the lower end of the screen pillar you can see two holes drilled to allow treating from that end, these will be plugged with grommets before refitting the wings.
Just to point out the brace panel by the hinges, you can see very poor workmanship here the edges of the panel have been undercut by the welder and these will need to be put right along with three MIG plugs on the inside. These I think are where the mig balls came from. I can find no evidence of accident damage on this side. I suspect it was replaced because of corrosion when the up dated front was fitted. Th repairer of this side was definitely not the same as the other!
https://goo.gl/photos/GqrPX2tFr5nLQSzk8
Right that bit out of the way.
I am going to get away from the Bongo for the weekend while the Fertan works its magic.
Dungeness RSPB is calling me so thought I would take a break in another Bongo!
P.S.
I intend to fit a wind out awning to the van and wondered if anyone out there has any images of the rear of a Fiamma awning?
I would like to fit the awning directly to the roof rather than using gutter clips and would be interested as to how it mounts.
Thanks.
I hope that lot came out OK.
OK so this is the area I looked at today. The images show the roof after the filler was removed to expose the old repairs.I had to get through a half inch wodge of filler on the frontmost section, the MIG welded one.
The second patch is interesting as it would seem that a pin or poke welder was used here, you can see the very small spot weld marks around the periphery of the patch. This type of welder is not generally found in a body shop it being more used in the aerospace industry.
Basically it is used for single side welding of very thin metals 24 SWG top panel being about its limit.This would explain the fairy rings found in the roof as seen in the PB images (currently off line) that I mistook for pulling studs.
https://goo.gl/photos/dZZczVSNtu82yrHz9
This is what I had mistaken for a piece of card it is in fact cut from a tin can and as you can see from the printing its Japanese. So this roof repair was almost certainly carried out before shipping, worrying! In the other image you can see clearly the fairy rings.
https://goo.gl/photos/u6mpu4BE3jp1aD659
This is the MIG patch at the top of the screen pillar, the one buried in filler, as it is being opened up.
I thought that this was the point where the screen pillar would be let in and I had expected to find corrosion around the over lap joddle. I believe this is not the connecting point at all as there appears to be a factory joddle further back and this brazed as you would expect to find.
Who ever carried out this repair, Nippon or UK, has welded the outer skin screen panel patch to the inner cant rail sub assembly and so blocked the run off for any moisture build up leading to the extensive corrosion in the surrounding area. I wonder if anyone out there can put up the panel exploded view for this area so I might confirm my suspicions?
After putting a camera down the offside there appears no connection between the sub assembly and screen pillar, although the gap is tiny.
If this is a connection point then it is a design flaw for the reasons stated earlier.
https://goo.gl/photos/74m7hY4y8Ab1PnLQ8
It might be a idea for other owners out there to treat this area if it has not already been done.
It is a simple strip out. You will probably be able to do it by easing down the headlining.
This is the area that needs the squirt. X marks the spot. If you have a probe then direct it rightward and that should allow enough jollop to roll in behind the screen flange at this point. The sub assembly masks the rest of the screen flange. I will have a look and see of there is somewhere that will allow access to that bit later.
https://goo.gl/photos/CstSWBv4XJZ4Nu5T9
In these pics you can see the sub assembly from outside under the roof skin and inside the van, dunno if tin tops are the same, that reinforces the roof. The roof outer is just a skin and will have little to do with the overall roof strength.
The corrosion that occurs on the roof panel outer skin is caused by corrosion occurring in that sub assembly and "leaking" through to the thin outer skin. It is not a break down in the guttering sealant as I first thought.
The roof skin attaches to the flange of the sub assy and thats where the corrosion starts.Certainly on this Bongo the outer skin rusting is fairly local to the cross rails and the factory joint. but a good squirt in that sub assembly boxing would not go amiss.
https://goo.gl/photos/NpAyEB6vD8gpvLcU6
This image is taken inside the sub assy.
https://goo.gl/photos/51A6bi8BLots3ZuB8
These images show the area of the MIG patch after cutting out, dressing and Fertan-ing ready for patching and the corrosion caused to the screen pillar by the botched repair.
In the pic of the lower end of the screen pillar you can see two holes drilled to allow treating from that end, these will be plugged with grommets before refitting the wings.
Just to point out the brace panel by the hinges, you can see very poor workmanship here the edges of the panel have been undercut by the welder and these will need to be put right along with three MIG plugs on the inside. These I think are where the mig balls came from. I can find no evidence of accident damage on this side. I suspect it was replaced because of corrosion when the up dated front was fitted. Th repairer of this side was definitely not the same as the other!
https://goo.gl/photos/GqrPX2tFr5nLQSzk8
Right that bit out of the way.
I am going to get away from the Bongo for the weekend while the Fertan works its magic.
Dungeness RSPB is calling me so thought I would take a break in another Bongo!
P.S.
I intend to fit a wind out awning to the van and wondered if anyone out there has any images of the rear of a Fiamma awning?
I would like to fit the awning directly to the roof rather than using gutter clips and would be interested as to how it mounts.
Thanks.
I hope that lot came out OK.
Re: Bongo 4wd refurb
I had a minor op and have not been able to do much this week so light duties only.
I decided to bring forward the treatment of the rust although I will be re treating areas exposed when I get to the rear X member and arches etc.
Truth is I got bored and felt I had to do something to move it on!
This my technical adviser Casper.
https://goo.gl/photos/dw4YstpiaA5QYc84A
Equipment and materials used in the process.
The tall spray gun can used for a variety of tasks like water wash out, applying Fertan, paint spraying ,waxing etc.It comes with three attachments and a spray gun type nozzle for large areas and zincing and two lances one 360 deg pattern and the other 360 and straight ahead.
Something like this is an essential piece of kit if you want to get into the blind boxes and nooks and crannies.
The sealant is Tiger PU sealer, silicon sealer is not a good idea as it lets go after a while and the PU can be used as an adhesive too.
https://goo.gl/photos/3JSGmobKPhCorGwQA
Applying the Fertan using the gun. All the interior boxes were similarly treated.
https://goo.gl/photos/kEKrfTToaPVGCKjS7
After a 24hr soak in Fertan the wash out!
https://goo.gl/photos/WZTWKJc2wzvNseN3A
Now I will leave the van until Monday when I will complete the O/S inner sill and let in the new floor box for heater and water tank.
I decided to bring forward the treatment of the rust although I will be re treating areas exposed when I get to the rear X member and arches etc.
Truth is I got bored and felt I had to do something to move it on!
This my technical adviser Casper.
https://goo.gl/photos/dw4YstpiaA5QYc84A
Equipment and materials used in the process.
The tall spray gun can used for a variety of tasks like water wash out, applying Fertan, paint spraying ,waxing etc.It comes with three attachments and a spray gun type nozzle for large areas and zincing and two lances one 360 deg pattern and the other 360 and straight ahead.
Something like this is an essential piece of kit if you want to get into the blind boxes and nooks and crannies.
The sealant is Tiger PU sealer, silicon sealer is not a good idea as it lets go after a while and the PU can be used as an adhesive too.
https://goo.gl/photos/3JSGmobKPhCorGwQA
Applying the Fertan using the gun. All the interior boxes were similarly treated.
https://goo.gl/photos/kEKrfTToaPVGCKjS7
After a 24hr soak in Fertan the wash out!
https://goo.gl/photos/WZTWKJc2wzvNseN3A
Now I will leave the van until Monday when I will complete the O/S inner sill and let in the new floor box for heater and water tank.




