Bongo Fury

What size are the self tappers for genuine rear curtain rail?
just had a search to no avail

I used the smallest countersunk wood screws I could find in my bits box. The holes need to be quite a good match as the taper on the screw makes it quite hard to cut the thread. If I was doing it again, I'd use a tap to cut threads and then use a machine thread screw.

Also be warned when drilling the pilot hole, there is a second layer of steel just a couple of millimetres behind the outer surface, so very easy on the first hole to snap the drill!

I haven't got the parts yet (bought 2hrs ago)

does it need a countersunk screw or panhead.
M3 or smaller?
want to get prepared.
Thanks for the advice Simon&Geof and whoever gets a post in by the time this is sent

Ps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwkL0qfyFL0
https://www.rydestore.com/ryde-7-lock-w ... wwodRq4N8Q

can be used with holes in studs castellated nuts for security.eg wheels on back of Bongo

I broke a drill bit in the double section. The end is still in there somewhere! I used countersunk screws as they need to be flat enough to allow the curtain runners to slide over.

With using the double skin what length is viable

I can't recall the size I used nor can I find the box, but I popped into the local hardware shop with the rail and we started at the smallest size they had which were really too big but did fit just fit and yes countersunk.

I think mine were about 6 or 7mm. Just make sure they're not so long they pop out the other side

The part number for the self tapping screw is S10P68153,you could give your local Mazda parts department for information.


http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

Thanks to all that replied.

Taking all the advise here at at work
I drilled a pilot hole and decided that the rivnut / clinchnut was the best option.
An insert is swaged into a precise hole drilled into the sheet metal. A machine screw can then be used (3mm)

tool with brass bodied clinch nut





Now need rain to stop to do bottom rail

Just for others that may want to do the same job "would ordinary pop rivets" do the job ?.

Two difficulties with that:

- finding a rivet with a small head to sit deep enough to clear the curtain hooks
- you'd need a small collar to form a temporary spacer between the rivet gun 'nozzle' and the head of rivet otherwise you risk deforming the rail as the tool compresses against it.

Totally do-able though. I fxed the spring steel ends onto the middle rail using this method.

Simon Jones wrote:Two difficulties with that:

- finding a rivet with a small head to sit deep enough to clear the curtain hooks
- you'd need a small collar to form a temporary spacer between the rivet gun 'nozzle' and the head of rivet otherwise you risk deforming the rail as the tool compresses against it.

Totally do-able though. I fxed the spring steel ends onto the middle rail using this method.

I was thinking of Countersunk pop rivets that are readily available.

teenmal wrote:I was thinking of Countersunk pop rivets that are readily available.

Ah, my telepathic skills have very limited geographical range