Glowplugs ?

[M 80NGO]

Yeah they can run rough if the valve sticks but then they'll run rough all the time not just when cold, infact thinking about it back in the summer i switched on the rear heater for cooling purposes and accidently switched on the winter warm up by accident, when i got about half a mile from home she started fluctuating her revs and i thought oh god what wrong then i saw that i'd pressed the wrong switch as they're next to each other once i'd switched off the winter warm up she ran fine.

I wonder if i can disconnect the actuator and just get her to start tick over and run at 750 rpm ?

[jaylee]

The screw in the blue should alter the idle when the solenoid it activated....? Even if the engine is up to temp, you can switch on the AC & do/check it...

[dandywarhol]

Ok - a bit of outside the box thinking....................is it possible the cold start flap on the exhaust is sticking - I think they are linked into the turbo boost system and it opens the flap if the engine tries to seek power. Why not completely disconnect the extra cold start system - don't need it anyway in UK, and see if things get better.

[Northern Bongolow]

see if this rings any bells pete.
the pump had a leak and was resealed and fitted, to make it run ok they have adjusted something because the solenoid you have replaced was faulty. now the solenoid has been fixed it needs adjusting back to how it should be.

lift the drivers seat when the engine is really cold.
put your finger on the left hand solenoid, turn the ignition on but dont start the engine, the left one should click, to test this more remove the left hand solenoid wire, no click.turn ignition on/ off to repeat and make sure.
if your motor holds a good vacuum overnight the throttle should be picked up and travel a long way(full diaphram pull length). if ok move to next.if it doesnt hold a vac it will move the throttle when the engine is started.
when the temp of the coolant gets to a bout 10 deg c this solenoid switches off via the ecu and the right hand one switches on until coolant temps of about 50 deg c, then switches off.
if you start the motor and the coolant temp is between 10degc and 50 degc just the right hand one clicks and the throttle is pulled up via the diaphram to the half way point until 50degc then off.
so to be clear. if its cold it needs more (choke) or more fuel to air mix so it picks up the throttle to give more fuel, (i know its more complicated than that, its done internally but thats the idea).
when it starts cold it wants to run at lower revs so it ups the revs until it gets warmer, then it drops off the revs in 2 stages to keep the revs at a steady 700 ish revs. this keeps the engine running smooth during warm up but also speeds up the proccess of warming up.
sorry if you know this lot but we dont seem to getting this one sorted

[jaylee]

Another way to test they both work is remove both connectors to the solenoids... It wont hurt i did it..!
Using the white connector only on each solenoid in turn with the engine running switch on the AC button.. It should change the plunger thing for the revs.... I personally found the click on the solenoids very subtle, not like a relay click..

A sort of double check after Adys idea... The right hand white dotted solenoid tends to be the culprit out of the two if any gives up the ghost at all...?

Ok - a bit of outside the box thinking....................is it possible the cold start flap on the exhaust is sticking - I think they are linked into the turbo boost system and it opens the flap if the engine tries to seek power. Why not completely disconnect the extra cold start system - don't need it anyway in UK, and see if things get better.

I'd say this is worth a punt too...!

[M 80NGO]

Great info once again, prior to reading the latest updates by you guys i lifted the drivers seat after work when she was stone cold, i turned the ignition on and felt each solenoid in turn all are giving a nice healthy "click" when the ignition is turned on also the first time i turned the ignition on the coldstart actuator / plunger activated through its cycle and went back to its rest position, whilst the ignition was on i disconected the water temp sensor and immediately i heard a cooling fan come on tho not sure if it was aircon fan or rad fan, reconnected the water temp sensor and after the glow curcuit light went out i fired her up, she started fine, coldstart system kicked in no probs until the glowplug relay clicked off and then she started chugging, as an experiment i disconected the water tem sensor while she was running this instantly turned all the glowplugs off and she billowed out unburnt fuel and the fan cut in again so i reconected it smartish and reved her to clear her then she went through her coldstart routine no probs, revs upto 1300 until the solenoid clicked and she shut down to 1750 rpm.

Once home for about an hour i again lifted the seat and removed all the solenoids and mounting brackets leaving the glow rail inplace, then with a test lamp i checked te feed to the rail all ok, i then checked all the glowplugs individually at the rail, all recieving an electrical feed, then with the test lamp on the main rail feed i waited for the relay to click off at which point the testlamp went out, i done this again with the temp sensor unplugged and she got no feed at the rail, i then fired her up and again the rail got a secondary feed to the rail which suggests that she's getting her warm up glowplug cycle, i then checked all the solenoid pipes for damage before getting her all screwed back together.
The one thing i would like to know is which way round the 2 pipes off the coldstart actuator go onto the long pipes metal pipes that go from the solenoid rail down behind the inlet manifold should they cross over or should the go on in the same order as they leave the actuator ?

[jaylee]

The one thing i would like to know is which way round the 2 pipes off the coldstart actuator go onto the long pipes metal pipes that go from the solenoid rail down behind the inlet manifold should they cross over or should the go on in the same order as they leave the actuator ?

I wouldn't have thought they were meant to cross over..? LP don't give a lot away on this one.... http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... 1of02.html

I'll have a look at my non problematic system first light for you, & let you know...! http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

[jaylee]

The one thing i would like to know is which way round the 2 pipes off the coldstart actuator go onto the long pipes metal pipes that go from the solenoid rail down behind the inlet manifold should they cross over or should the go on in the same order as they leave the actuator ?

I wouldn't have thought they were meant to cross over..? LP don't give a lot away on this one.... http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... 1of02.html

I'll have a look at my non problematic system first light for you, & let you know...! http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

OK, i've just been out to ave a look for you... (I quite often do preflight checks on a Saturday morning.)

Anyway what you should see is the two vacuum pipes coming down from under the solenoid rail thing... They do stay sort of parallel about half way then split from a "spacer clip thing" holding em in place to stop the chafe...

But here is the cunning bit to help identification..

The hose on the left has a broken yellow line running the full length & that attaches to the back of the brass coloured solenoid rev plunger/adjuster on the angled down connector..... The plain hose connects underneath the unit!!

[jaylee]

I took some pictures too.. Most came out a little fuzzy to use... But you get the idea....

But, on studying the picture..... DAMN!!! I think one of my vac hoses has split....



I've seen similar on the "inlet elbow" thing?? & replaced when i was fitting turbo gauge.. (For the hell of it!)

Top right of this pic...



Hope this helps... It certainly has for me.!

[M 80NGO]

IMPORTANT, THIS NEXT POST IS TO BE READ IN THE STYLE OF BARACK OBAMA !

Good people of Bongoville....... Today at pecisously 12.15 European time....... My team and i made a break through that has the potential to change Bongoing forever !

Today good people... we made a discovery..... a discovery so profound and so important to those Bongoers that have suffered the fate of cold lumpy gas chugging start ups .......

Today of all days we, the nation can stand proud and tall......... proud in the knowledge that a scientific breakthrough so unique has come to ease our lumpy start up pain.

Today we discovered that when a Bongo is started from cold....... the glowplug curcuit will kick in and it will warm your cylinder bores......... and even........ when the relay clicks off....... the water tempature sensor will tell the glowplugs...... via the ecu...... that the glow plugs need another surge of heat....... and...... this heat is supplied...... supplied until the water temperature sensor deems that the glowplugs....... are needed no more...... for the time being.

This good people is how its always been...... and....... how it always should be...... But !...... and there is a but...... if the throttle exceeds 950rpm..... the glowplugs..... will be switched off !!!!!! The ecu.... will think.... that your Bongo... is being.... driven... there for...... if....... your coldstart mechanism..... is set....... to lift the revs to 1250rpm whilst cold....... the glowplugs...... Ladies and gentlemen..... will be switched off ....... and with the plugs switched off....... and with the coolant cold....... the lumpy chuffin startup gremlin...... will creep in to your Bongo.... and...... it will make you pay........

So to sum up good people of Bongoville...... if you have..... a badly adjusted..... coldstart idle screw...... i emplore you to rectify this issue...... and come over to green and pleasant land of the lumpy free startup..... Today good people of Bongoville..... the Lumpy startup Gremlin counted on us Bongoers being passive ..... Today he counted wrong !!!!!!!!!!

I salute you all

[Northern Bongolow]

good work guys, another stand and salute the bongo moment .
all these little gems of info help the next bongo.

and isnt it a proud moment when you stand back and curse the dam thing for giving you so much grief for the sake of a turn of a screw


just had a thought----------------well the mrs did actually, if you are warming your engine up on the drive from cold its better to let the bongo do it itself because the glowplugs are on, rather than sit there with your foot on the throttle (no plugs on)

[jaylee]

Great news..!! Basically if in doubt set it to 750...

[M 80NGO]

good work guys, another stand and salute the bongo moment .
all these little gems of info help the next bongo.

and isnt it a proud moment when you stand back and curse the dam thing for giving you so much grief for the sake of a turn of a screw


just had a thought----------------well the mrs did actually, if you are warming your engine up on the drive from cold its better to let the bongo do it itself because the glowplugs are on, rather than sit there with your foot on the throttle (no plugs on)

Yep agree with all of the above, after my thorough investigation yesterday i was totally miffed at 4:45 s'morning when i fired her up and she started acoughin and achuffin, but whilst in my truck on the way to milton keynes the penny dropped about how the glow lamp went out when the revs went over the 1k mark, sacre bleu !!!!!!!!!!!!! EUREKA !!!!!!!!!!

I then thought Bloody hell its so obvious, the coldstart is set wrong and is causing the plugs to turn off when they should be on, When i got back to the yard prior to starting her up i lifted the seat and wound out the adjustment screw till there was just 5mm showing on the critical side and would ya believe it she started as good as gold i then wound the screw in to pick her cold start up to 900rpm and checked to see that the glow rail was getting juice which she most definitely was

Jaylee i always thought the phrase was "If in doubt go flat out" but yeah anywhere between 750 and 900 tops is good for a bongo coldstart setup,

Checked the pipework and my dotted pipe comes out of the back of the actuator and up to the left hand metal pipe so all is calm in my particular lill bongo world at the mo

[M 80NGO]

I shall miss this post its been such a huge part of my life for the last couple of weeks that i feel i may need some counciling to get me readjusted back into society

[jaylee]

I shall miss this post its been such a huge part of my life for the last couple of weeks that i feel i may need some counciling to get me readjusted back into society

All that money saved on a cheap solution.... You can get the best shrink in the business..!!

I have to admit i'm not a big fan of revving any engine too high from cold...