My Bongo is the same colour scheme as yours from the look of it. I bought some cans at reasonable price from
https://www.paints4u.com/ and as said, its not scarily expensive. But the hassle with this really is you need to use primer, then metallic colour, then a decent 2 pack lacquer (the 'normal' spray lacquer is inferior, doesn't gloss like 2 pack and, I suspect, isn't as durable either). And even with the most careful work you're unlikely to get a perfect match as new paint won't quite match 20 year old faded/weathered paint. On mine, I found the bits needing treatment mainly fell into two categories:
1) Pinhole / small / local surface blemishes where the paint had been compromised, surface rust was starting, and that needed 'stopping' if the area was not to spread.
2) Areas round wheel arches and outer sills where not using an exact match mattered less as I could make a feature out of them.
I found that by mixing smooth green hammerite and smooth black hammerite I could get a colour that wasn't far off the green. Ditto with smooth silver and black for the silver bits.
For (1) above, I use a glassfibre tipped pencil to rub off the rust and clean up the blemish, or I might use a bit use a bit of wet and dry sandpaper if the area is a bit larger. I can then do a 'one shot' paint touch up using an artists paintbrush, or by dabbing with a bit of paint tipped kitchen twizzled towel (or whatever - choose your weapon of choice).
For (2), which can be more extensive, I mask off with vinyl tape (to give some protection/boundary) and I use a toffee wheel in an electric drill to take off any paint that has rust bubbling underneath. Use Kurust or similar also if you wish but if its just surface rust I don't bother. I then apply the hammerite using a suitable piece of foam rubber dipped in the paint (the stuff that foam kitchen scourers are made of is good) and I use a dabbing action. This avoids a cheap brushmarked look. On the first pass, you'll get entrapped air bubbles. But by going back over it gently soon after applying it most of these can be persuaded to go. Even if not, you are making a deliberately textured finish that looks as though it should be there. It does not attempt to match the original metallic green but acts as a feature that contrast well with it. And I do a complete panel (all the sill, and a masked area around the wheel arch etc.) and I do both sides of the car regardless. I'm very happy with the effect. Its a bit like putting patches on old jeans - do it well and it looks cool and adds a little ruggedness.
The real advantage of this approach is that you save all the hassle of masking and spraying 3 lots of paint. In our variable UK weather, or if you are limited on spare time, being able to avoid all this means that jobs get done when otherwise they might get put off. Also, this maintenance is going to be ongoing, so the simpler it can be kept the better. I've been happily using this technique on mine now successfully for several years. Nobody notices the pinhole repairs unless they do a close inspection, and the other stuff looks like a feature. And hammerite will cover in one coat, and is an approved paint for applying direct onto metal including if it has a bit of remaining surface rust.
You might want to look at this thread also, for when things get more serious:
http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... fibreglass
I might even opt to make/fit fibreglass wheel arch trims to finish off this job, making even more of a feature out of what was once a problem.
My approach is Protection, not Perfection. But with a bit of art, the work can still look good even if not showroom.
P.S. Wow - that's a nice post on which make my 19000 posts total. Thank you for that
