Has anyone used the "rustys bongo bleed kit" , he says it eliminates the the need for bleeding the coolant .
Does it work ?
Bleed kit
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tjbrookes2004
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Bleed kit
2.5 diesel
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g8dhe
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Re: Bleed kit
A search will get a lot of discussion start here viewtopic.php?p=714617#p714617
No one ever explains how or why or if it can shift an air-lock within the engine itself, which is the main problem. Shifting the air out once its left the engine is not a problem.
No one ever explains how or why or if it can shift an air-lock within the engine itself, which is the main problem. Shifting the air out once its left the engine is not a problem.
Spherical Visions-
tjbrookes2004
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haydn callow
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Re: Bleed kit
Be very careful.....get it wrong and your looking at a £2000 repair bill.
Re: Bleed kit
On the subject of the bleed kit......
I bought one last year but haven't fitted it, I'm dubious about its effectiveness.
When I bleed my system, I first fill the rad, replace the cap, the bleed hose to the head is inserted into a large funnel which is jammed into the part-closed passenger side window. I then fill through the funnel/bleed pipe so the water goes directly into the head. Then start engine, heater set to 'hot' and continue filling through the funnel/bleed pipe with the engine running at 2500 rpm. This ensures there is always water in the head, continue filling until no more water passes through the bleed tube i.e. the head is full then top up the header tank.
For me the principle is fill from the highest point and drain from the lowest, I've used this method many times on my own van and others without any problems at all. Of course the header tank level needs to be checked after a run but if done this way I've always found it foolproof providing it's not rushed.
I also have a coolant alarm fitted which is a must IMO.
I bought one last year but haven't fitted it, I'm dubious about its effectiveness.
When I bleed my system, I first fill the rad, replace the cap, the bleed hose to the head is inserted into a large funnel which is jammed into the part-closed passenger side window. I then fill through the funnel/bleed pipe so the water goes directly into the head. Then start engine, heater set to 'hot' and continue filling through the funnel/bleed pipe with the engine running at 2500 rpm. This ensures there is always water in the head, continue filling until no more water passes through the bleed tube i.e. the head is full then top up the header tank.
For me the principle is fill from the highest point and drain from the lowest, I've used this method many times on my own van and others without any problems at all. Of course the header tank level needs to be checked after a run but if done this way I've always found it foolproof providing it's not rushed.
I also have a coolant alarm fitted which is a must IMO.