Fuel pump leak - changing out the seals

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MyBongoiscalledDave
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Re: Fuel pump leak - changing out the seals

Post by MyBongoiscalledDave » Mon Feb 24, 2020 3:09 pm

I didn't remove the advance piston, or the springs behind the housing, just the bell housing with the shims and the o-ring. I'm fairly sure I put it back together as it came apart, but I'll take it apart again this week and report back.

I'm wondering if there might be another reason for the problem. Anyone know what else might cause acceleration to be lacking at high load? Does it sound like a fuel problem? To me it sounds like a vacuum system or air intake issue ...
rita
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Re: Fuel pump leak - changing out the seals

Post by rita » Mon Feb 24, 2020 9:30 pm

MyBongoiscalledDave wrote: Mon Feb 24, 2020 3:09 pm I didn't remove the advance piston, or the springs behind the housing, just the bell housing with the shims and the o-ring. I'm fairly sure I put it back together as it came apart, but I'll take it apart again this week and report back.

I'm wondering if there might be another reason for the problem. Anyone know what else might cause acceleration to be lacking at high load? Does it sound like a fuel problem? To me it sounds like a vacuum system or air intake issue ...




Its possible that some dirt has entered the pump, or the filters are needing replaced / cleaned.

this is where you could get the 2x green seals https://bongoland.co.uk/product/diesel- ... -set-of-2/
MyBongoiscalledDave
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Re: Fuel pump leak - changing out the seals

Post by MyBongoiscalledDave » Sun Mar 01, 2020 9:55 am

I've been thinking outside the box a little on this. After I changed the seals, I noticed the rev range was down and not revving over 4000rpm. But I do remember that when I drive it back from buying it a couple of months back is was very underpowered and didn't like revving high at all. I do have a flashing hold light as well. I wonder whether the Throttle Position sensor is out of whack and thinks 4000rpm is actually 6000rpm and is redlining?

I'm going to check the voltages with a multimeter today in the ECU. If they're out, I'll do the flashing bulb diagnostic in the OBD port. What are people using for a bulb? Links to suitable bulbs please.

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Re: Fuel pump leak - changing out the seals

Post by g8dhe » Sun Mar 01, 2020 10:36 am

Any small low wattage 12 volt bulb is OK, a dashboard illumination light is fine, pea bulbs for model train tracks etc.
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MyBongoiscalledDave
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Re: Fuel pump leak - changing out the seals

Post by MyBongoiscalledDave » Sun Mar 01, 2020 11:01 am

Perfect, thanks for the heads up. How do you make the terminals of the bulb long enough to stretch from port to port? Solder and wire?
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Re: Fuel pump leak - changing out the seals

Post by g8dhe » Sun Mar 01, 2020 11:08 am

Yup that's what I do.
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MyBongoiscalledDave
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Re: Fuel pump leak - changing out the seals

Post by MyBongoiscalledDave » Sun Mar 01, 2020 11:13 am

Cool. So shall I.

Just in case anyone wants to buy a ready made bulb with long wire ends, here is a link;

https://www.rapidonline.com/wire-ended-filament-lamps

Just out of interest, is there a positive and negative (live and neutral) on the bulb that you have to insert the correct way around I to the OBD?
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Re: Fuel pump leak - changing out the seals

Post by g8dhe » Sun Mar 01, 2020 11:59 am

Filament lamps are not directional, LED's are however which is why I suggest filament lamps saves problems!
Bear in mind that that the later ECU's flash the Glowplug light itself with the code, once the link is set, its only the earlier versions that need the lamp fitting to read the code.
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MyBongoiscalledDave
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Re: Fuel pump leak - changing out the seals

Post by MyBongoiscalledDave » Sun Mar 01, 2020 12:23 pm

Okay, thanks for the heads up again. I'll try to get a filament bulb. Mine is a 96 2.5tdi. I checked the light on the dash, but is a steady, repeating flash, so unfortunately I'll have to go the old fashioned way.
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Re: Fuel pump leak - changing out the seals

Post by MyBongoiscalledDave » Thu Mar 19, 2020 11:20 am

In the spirit of posting up successful fixes, I can say that I've fixed the problem with the flat spot at 4000rpm.

After messing around double checking all the work with the seal change, double checking all hoses were attached correctly, double checking the vacuum system and fuel system and cracking the injectors, I found out that the banjo strainer in the FIP was a bit dirty. I cleaned it with cotton buds dipped in diesel and replaced it (be careful not to drop it) and now it runs perfectly again.

Apart from the gearbox problems ;)

Happy Thursday to you all.

Adam
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Re: Fuel pump leak - changing out the seals

Post by Bob » Thu Mar 19, 2020 11:30 am

Useful info, thanks, and well done. 8)
rita
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Re: Fuel pump leak - changing out the seals

Post by rita » Thu Mar 19, 2020 4:02 pm

rita wrote: Mon Feb 24, 2020 9:30 pm
MyBongoiscalledDave wrote: Mon Feb 24, 2020 3:09 pm I didn't remove the advance piston, or the springs behind the housing, just the bell housing with the shims and the o-ring. I'm fairly sure I put it back together as it came apart, but I'll take it apart again this week and report back.

I'm wondering if there might be another reason for the problem. Anyone know what else might cause acceleration to be lacking at high load? Does it sound like a fuel problem? To me it sounds like a vacuum system or air intake issue ...




Its possible that some dirt has entered the pump, or the filters are needing replaced / cleaned.

this is where you could get the 2x green seals https://bongoland.co.uk/product/diesel- ... -set-of-2/
If the Diesel suffers from lack of power or speed deterioration the first thing to do is change/clean all the filters .
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