Baro Sensor fault

[Bongofamily]

Hello
I am new to Bongoing, have owned our van for about a month. We are having a great time getting to know her and have lots of plans for the coming year for camping trips with two quite small children! I have been reading around this site a lot and it is a real source of inspiration, knowledge and a little bit of fear that everything could possibly go wrong at a moment’s notice.

Our van is a 02 2.5 Diesel. It has a flashing glow bulb warning light that comes on as the van warms up about 10 minutes into most drives and when the temperature gauge is around 11:00/12:00. We have done a couple of 2 hour drives and the temperature gauge stays in that position. I have only had to top up the coolant a little once and think there is a little leak in a T shaped connector near the rear heating pipes.

I was proud that I ran a diagnostic check and got several error codes some that seem to make sense and some that don’t. I think I got 14, 10, 20, 11, 12 and 18. I have reset the system and got a 14 again ( or at a push it could be 24). This seems to suggest a Baro sensor. Looking around I can’t find much info on how to tackle this so any ideas or help greatly appreciated.

One of the other codes is for the intake air temperature sensor and I wondered if replacing the part had fixed the problem for any fellow bongo owners.

Thanks in advance

[JulesMartin]

Hi Ya and welcome to the group. I'm sorry but can't help with the fault codes but I'm sure somebody will be along shortly with all that info. The leak at the T junction near to the rear heater is almost certainly the metal pipe that has corroded. if you are considering keeping the van long term then no water leaks can be tolerated as they will get worse and they will leave you stuck at the roadside when you don't want to be. You've no doubt read all the issues they have with cracking heads etc. The metal tube is available for around £90 and is a job and a half to change. You will need to get that side of the vehicle up fairly high to allow room for the pipe to be withdrawn and refitted. You could always try these metal repair products that are around. They are good but rely on absolute cleanliness but at the end of the day, in my opinion, can only be regarded as a temporary solution. Replacing the pipe and introducing yourself to the amazing bleeding process would be a good introduction into the pain of Bongo ownership.

[g8dhe]

I think the barometric air pressure sensor is only fitted on the later versions and not covered on the wiring diagrams. Its normally fitted around the air intake manifold see here lower right corner http://www.lushprojects.com/bongopartsm ... 2of02.html 18-915 /18-211 is the sensor itself.

[Bongofamily]

That’s really helpful, hope to go and have a look this afternoon and give the wires a wobble in the first place. I did read that on other vehicles the MAP and MAF sensors can give BARO sensor errors. I did read that my model of Bongo may not have a MAF so I will also look for the MAP and see what that is like. Perhaps both just need a clean?

[Bongofamily]

It was a bit dark when I went to look and I couldn’t identify anything that resembled the BARO sensor on my Bongo. I will look another day with a bit more light and time on my side.

I did re run the diagnostic and have the video here: Watch "2002 2.5 Diesel Bongo flashing error codes" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/D63j8TFOt1I

It doesn’t make sense to me as I think I have two number 12 codes, an 11 and 18 as well as the 14 I originally identified. The same output from an LED connected down by the diagnostic connector. Does this mean mine is sending out four digit error codes? Where do I find a list of those?

One last odd thing is that I have never heard any fans come on whilst driving the van in the last month and a half but when I run the diagnostic and then remove the key from the ignition the two fans facing into each engine bay make a hell of a racket for about two minutes and then stop.

[g8dhe]

Ah just realised you have a diesel, not sure they have a Baro sensor, its only on the later 2l petrol engines.
With a 2002 version the codes are 4 digits, see the Factsheet in the members area for how to interpret the codes, same basic method. Its also possible that you may have a standard OBDII port for the diagnostics to the left of the steering wheel under the dashboard.

[Bongofamily]

Thanks again, that’s probably why I struggled to find the Baro sensor, I did have a good look and used the dark as an excuse to cover for my lack of success.

I have translated the codes using a 4 digit system and get 0400 and 1128 which both relate to the EGR. Had a look today and could see how the where the turbo joins the wastegate bit. Tried to wiggle the waste gate actuator and it seems pretty stuck. With lots of jiggling and some WD40 it ended up moving about 3mm. I guess it should move than that. I assume the next job is to try and remove the very corroded heat deflector and then tackle the wastegate a bit more? Am I right in thinking I can access the EGR from the end of centre of the console unbolting that back panel?

[g8dhe]

I think if you search on here you will find several threads regarding cleaning the turbo and other bits and how much the wastegate should move etc.

[Ian]

Way back in 2018, on a spare Sunday afternoon, I summarised the various Forum discussions in to a single "Wastegate" fact sheet which you will find in the members area of the main BF website. One of the things it mentions is that the wastegate actuator sticks due to excess heat from the vacuum valves.

"To test it, lift the passenger seat and grab the wastegate actuator rod (with pliers!) and work it back and forth, it’s spring loaded to close itself, try it about 10 times to see that the action remains smooth, then try again when the car is hot. If it works smooth then it’s the vacuum valves, if it’s sticky (especially when hot) then it’s likely to be the turbo itself.

There is also a possibility that the second temperature sensor that commands the ECU seems to go outside its working range and thinks the car is overheating.
It’s also possible that the turbo control solenoid has failed. Follow the (vacuum) pipe back from the actuator and you'll find a T piece, keep going (all under the passenger seat) and you'll find the solenoid, usually brown, with 1 pipe out (horizontal) and 2 pipes at the other end (vertical, 1 in (nearest you), the other to the turbo) with a 2 pin connector. Try applying 12 volt power to the pins to hear if the solenoid clicks (open). Another quick test is with the engine running, pull off the vertical pipes and hold the ends together (doesn’t have to be super seal) and watch the wastegate actuator, it should go full deflection.”

The fact sheet also refers to a couple of YouTube videos about cleaning the turbo and the EGR.

[Bongofamily]

I can’t get the actuator to move very far, it does spring back but I am not sure how much movement to hope for. Here is a video of what I got:

https://youtu.be/D1lSKOdwmz0

I am not sure how easy it will be to get my heat deflector off in one piece so I tried going round the back of the engine to access what I think are the EGR valves. I saw thin shims of metal between the valves and the exhaust and another on the EGR pipe, does this suggest it has been blanked at some point? If so would that stop the wastegate moving more or generate the error codes?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VnwKsy ... p=drivesdk

Whilst I was there I realised it was very oily - is this normal? The oil level seems pretty constant in the time I have owned it and the 500 or so miles we have done.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1K4X-_S ... p=drivesdk

The good news is that I think I stopped the coolant leak by tightening the jubilee clips. I thinks though that my system has had an overhaul at some point as I have three rubber tubes meeting not two and a metal one.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wuzf7m ... p=drivesdk

Will read the wastegate fat sheet next...

[Bongofamily]

I have read the fact sheet and will start trying to work through the suggestions at the weekend. The problem is that the Bongo is my commuting vehicle so I only have limited slots to take it apart and fiddle before I have to get it back together to drive again.

If the EGR system was blanked by a previous owner would that generate the error codes?

[Bongofamily]

Just an update really, mainly about lack of satisfactory progress.
I have fixed a couple of minor problems elsewhere on the van and have been tinkering around the periphery of the wastegate and EGR issues. I have cleaned solenoid contacts and will check with multimeter as soon as it arrives. I have check vac pipes visually and compared to diagrams and that seems good.

The wastegate actuator only about 2mm which is nowhere near enough. It is also well corroded. I think I will take to a garage as I don’t think I can get the current wastegate/turbo out to check if it is the actuator or wastegate causing the problem in limited time I have.

I have found the EGRs but can’t quite work how to get to all the bolts to get them out to clean/ check. I suspect they have been blanked at some point (see photos above) would this generate error codes. I can’t seem to get the sensor on the EGR off - I might be being too gentle... does it just slide off like a solenoid connector or unscrew from the drivers’ side?

Sorry that was lots more questions than I intended. I have browsed a lot of threads and these two error codes seem very popular for newer vans with limited success resolving them.

[JulesMartin]

I'll have to exempt myself a bit as I have no experience of the 02 engine. it seems to have two EGR valves for a start which in my opinion is two too many but all the best of luck in sorting it out. The engine should be completely dry and I would suggest that you replace the rocker cover gasket. if you buy the kit from here you will also receive the rubber inserts for the bolts which are really required. The three way joint does look as though there has been some interference and I'm guessing somebody has replaced the long metal tube that goes from the rear heater to the front heater under the drivers side with a rubber hose. There are advantages in this in that it is much, much easier to fit but does add the issue of it failing or causing air locks if it does not all go continually up hill (worth checking next time you are underneath)

[Bongofamily]

Thanks for looking at the pics. I had guessed that the metal coolant pipe was now rubber but it seems well cabled tied in and seems to have stopped leaking. The coolant level hasn’t moved for a couple of weeks and it is driven every day so I am hoping that should be fine. Heating seems to be working front and back too. One annoying thing though is that with a side conversion some of the vents on one side are covered by that and if you not careful the cupboards just get full of hot air!

I mopped up the oily engine bay and I think it has stayed clean for a week or two, I think this will go down as one to monitor. It can be really tricky though as when I prepped the nuts and bolts on the EGR with rust release that dripped down and cleaned a whole load of old oil off too!

[Gandalf The White]

Hi there.

I had a longstanding problems with our 2002 Diesel Bongo with the dreaded going into limp mode and glow plug light flashing once engine was warm and sat in traffic. I cleared all the old fault codes and found the two fault codes being displayed were P0400 and P1228. Spent hours researching this trawling for answers through the forums, FB groups and it's also well detailed on the Wastegate Actuator factsheet in the members section. It's obvious people have spent hours on this, but nothing seems to give a permanent guaranteed long term fix. After much head scratching I discovered Mark at The Bongo Master in Leicestershire, really good, decent, honest bloke, who knows Bongos inside and out, he has great reviews from all his customers. Mark immediately knew what the problem was. It's a known issue with later Bongos, due to combination of a change of turbo design and poorer quality grade diesel in the UK. Mark charges £600 to retrofit an older turbo from an earlier model and changes the relevant ducting and piping to go with it. The van then ran as sweet as a nut, with no loss in performance at all. Just thought I'd share, as it could save somebody alot of time, money and hassle in the future.

https://www.thebongomaster.co.uk/