Atf pipes pinhole

[BernieBongo1955]

Good afternoon Bongonauts
Just need a bit of reassurance! Off to Scotland for 1500 mile trip at end of July when my wife said what's that on the drive, you guessed it, dreaded pinhole on atf metal pipes near gearbox sump. To cut a long story short, oil lines and flexible pipes now replaced (brilliant parts service from BongoSpares). Does this mean metal coolant pipes are also likely to pinhole. (2001 V6 66k miles). What if it all goes pear shaped in the Scottish highlands? Will I ever sleep again! Cheers Paul

[mikeonb4c]

Good afternoon Bongonauts
Just need a bit of reassurance! Off to Scotland for 1500 mile trip at end of July when my wife said what's that on the drive, you guessed it, dreaded pinhole on atf metal pipes near gearbox sump. To cut a long story short, oil lines and flexible pipes now replaced (brilliant parts service from BongoSpares). Does this mean metal coolant pipes are also likely to pinhole. (2001 V6 66k miles). What if it all goes pear shaped in the Scottish highlands? Will I ever sleep again! Cheers Paul

Yes it does I fear - they both suffer corrosion erosion in that exposed location. My coolant pipe went 2 years before the transmission fluid one. Its generally the section by the tee joint that goes and a quicker cheaper repair is to cut that out and plumb in a tee piece. But it'll still be a breakdown situation and a special procedures rebleed of the system. And a low coolant alarm is a must, to warn you if/when it happens. Sorry to be the bearer etc - joys of an old campervan classic etc.

[BernieBongo1955]

Mikeonb4c
Thanks so much for your reply, LCA fitted, Bernie serviced recently coolant pipes look visually o.k (but so did the ATF pipes!) As you say these are older vans. Problems always seem to be near brackets where I guess crud lingers and retains salt/water. But I'm on a mission to fettle and preserve! Great to be part of a vast knowledge base, just one other point what are your thoughts on cutting off the rear heater, would this reduce the amount of pipage that could cause problems?

[mikeonb4c]

Mikeonb4c
Thanks so much for your reply, LCA fitted, Bernie serviced recently coolant pipes look visually o.k (but so did the ATF pipes!) As you say these are older vans. Problems always seem to be near brackets where I guess crud lingers and retains salt/water. But I'm on a mission to fettle and preserve! Great to be part of a vast knowledge base, just one other point what are your thoughts on cutting off the rear heater, would this reduce the amount of pipage that could cause problems?

Sorry for slow reply, BF forum didnt show yours until now. I wonder sometimes if vibration fatigue could contribute to the ultimate failure of the metal pipe that has already become thin/weakened by corrosion. Is so then that plus (more so) your theory could explain near brackets. I imagine removing piping for rear heater could, done correctly, alleviate the problem. I have this thing though about wanting to keep the rear heater even though I could survive without it. Mind you, where that can get especially expensive / tricky (on labour cost) is when bodywork rust in that area has to be cut out / welded up.

And yes, the difficulty in all this is coolant and ATF pipes may still look ok even when they're actually critically thin from corrosion. Its as though road spray and grit blast the surface rust off removing the usual telltale rust sign. If only there was some suitable product that could be used to lag them and that would seal and be structurally capable in all heat and road conditions.

[BernieBongo1955]

Mikeonb4c
Thanks so much for your reply, LCA fitted, Bernie serviced recently coolant pipes look visually o.k (but so did the ATF pipes!) As you say these are older vans. Problems always seem to be near brackets where I guess crud lingers and retains salt/water. But I'm on a mission to fettle and preserve! Great to be part of a vast knowledge base, just one other point what are your thoughts on cutting off the rear heater, would this reduce the amount of pipage that could cause problems?

Sorry for slow reply, BF forum didnt show yours until now. I wonder sometimes if vibration fatigue could contribute to the ultimate failure of the metal pipe that has already become thin/weakened by corrosion. Is so then that plus (more so) your theory could explain near brackets. I imagine removing piping for rear heater could, done correctly, alleviate the problem. I have this thing though about wanting to keep the rear heater even though I could survive without it. Mind you, where that can get especially expensive / tricky (on labour cost) is when bodywork rust in that area has to be cut out / welded up.

And yes, the difficulty in all this is coolant and ATF pipes may still look ok even when they're actually critically thin from corrosion. Its as though road spray and grit blast the surface rust off removing the usual telltale rust sign. If only there was some suitable product that could be used to lag them and that would seal and be structurally capable in all heat and road conditions.

Cheers for response Mike really appreciate your thoughts. I might get Bernie's coolant system checked at Allan's in Plymouth after the Scottish trip, just to help anxiety about all things on the bongo coolant front. Have packed some Halfords tape as per link, looks pretty good let's hope I don't have to use it!
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paint ... icone-tape
Thanks again and happy bongoing. Paul

[mikeonb4c]

Ah! Tried the self annealing stuff on my leaky coolant pipe - no use at all not least because it couldn't bed down/purchase properly on a wet pipe. However, it might work better if wound around the pipe before it starts leaking. My coolant pipe started its leak when i was scraping rust off it ready to try putting a protective coating on it (Doh!) so it was too late to try.

[BernieBongo1955]

Mike,
Thanks for your comments, esp re the tape! Just one more point (as I'm newish to the bongo world) would you say that when ever you have a coolant leak in a bongo it can never be just topped up, due to the possibility of air-locks in the system and consequent head damage, therefore requiring rescue to a bongo knowledgeable garage? TIA Paul

[mikeonb4c]

Mike,
Thanks for your comments, esp re the tape! Just one more point (as I'm newish to the bongo world) would you say that when ever you have a coolant leak in a bongo it can never be just topped up, due to the possibility of air-locks in the system and consequent head damage, therefore requiring rescue to a bongo knowledgeable garage? TIA Paul

As long as the header tank coolant level hasnt gone below the pipes connected to it you should be fine. And the low coolant alarm should go off well before that.