Ford freda electrical issues??
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- Apprentice Bongonaut
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Ford freda electrical issues??
Hi everyone my for freda has some electrical issues, we have no front heater blower! No fuel guage! And no central locking! All fuses are fine, please help??
Re: Ford freda electrical issues??
Do you have a leisure battery/split charge system?
Did the fuel gauge pack up before the other items?
Did the fuel gauge pack up before the other items?
- g8dhe
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Re: Ford freda electrical issues??
Those circuits are just about all independent of each so it sounds like independent faults. However can you give us some details like engine type and year as a minimum ? Also what is the history, has it just been bought and came like it? Have they all developed at the same time ? Has any work been carried out - welding, arches, sills, conversion ...?
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- Apprentice Bongonaut
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Re: Ford freda electrical issues??
Just purchased it, and came with faults, 1997 2.5 td auto, no history, no welding, no conversions etc
- g8dhe
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Re: Ford freda electrical issues??
OK well the Wiring Manuals are on-line for that year and model here;
Also Tabs covering all the fuses and purposes and lamps etc.
Common faults for the fan motor are overheated thermal fuses in the mechanical model, resulting from water logged fan motor,
Central locking faults are often down to the drivers door wiring loom with breaks in the wiring as it passes over the lower door hinge.
fuel gauge can often be problems with the tank earthing easily solved with an extra earth wire to the chassis.
If there are no obvious blown fuses then your going to need a meter to track down the faults!
Also Tabs covering all the fuses and purposes and lamps etc.
Common faults for the fan motor are overheated thermal fuses in the mechanical model, resulting from water logged fan motor,
Central locking faults are often down to the drivers door wiring loom with breaks in the wiring as it passes over the lower door hinge.
fuel gauge can often be problems with the tank earthing easily solved with an extra earth wire to the chassis.
If there are no obvious blown fuses then your going to need a meter to track down the faults!
- Northern Bongolow
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- Apprentice Bongonaut
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Re: Ford freda electrical issues??
Right thanks for the advice so far, the blower once stripped down was rusty and the brushes and springs knackered, so replaced them thats now running but a bit noisy maybe the bearing?
The fuel tank i ran a jump lead from tank to chassis and hey presto it worked, so new earth required, next job central locking!
Have discovered another fault cold start unit does not seem to be working vacuum pipes all look good??
The fuel tank i ran a jump lead from tank to chassis and hey presto it worked, so new earth required, next job central locking!
Have discovered another fault cold start unit does not seem to be working vacuum pipes all look good??
- Northern Bongolow
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- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:33 pm
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Re: Ford freda electrical issues??
one only works under coolant temp about 10 degc the other one works from 10deg c up to 50 degc. once above 50 deg c non work except when you switch on the aircon on, this lifts the throttle a tad on the pump to compensate for the aircon load providing it still works.
the white plug one works most, and is the most likely to be full of rusty crap as it gets 1st air from the air pump. to test remove the 2 plugs and swap them over and see if it then works bearing in mind that one pulls up the throttle more than the other acting like an old cold start choke throttling the pump in 2 stages.
you could try removing the solenoids and lubing them and gently bashing them several times to free them up, its just a magnetic switch closing off the ports. failing that its replace time.
the white plug one works most, and is the most likely to be full of rusty crap as it gets 1st air from the air pump. to test remove the 2 plugs and swap them over and see if it then works bearing in mind that one pulls up the throttle more than the other acting like an old cold start choke throttling the pump in 2 stages.
you could try removing the solenoids and lubing them and gently bashing them several times to free them up, its just a magnetic switch closing off the ports. failing that its replace time.