Rear Heater Supply Pipe

[cmm303]

There are no studs for the pulley, but fairly sure there are some studs between pump and head. They would be the missing bolts in the outline on this wood:

Could cross check with diagram on lush projects.

[sloppy7]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2To7 ... EwVm1JTTJZ

Not sure if the link will work but managed to sneak my phone around and take a picture. Lushprojects and the service manual indicate 4 bolts but the fourth in my picture looks like a threaded bar with a missing nut, rather than a sheared bolt. Mildly confused at the moment but short of taking it all off and learning some I'm stumped. Or perhaps I'm missing the point completely??

[sloppy7]

Right. New plan of attack is to flush the coolant system with rad flush as it is and whilst running the engine stick it on my ramps. Thus hopefully making the waterpump and stat change an easier job. I can't crack the three nuts remaining and I'm hoping getting underneath will give me a bit more room for leverage.

I'll also hopefully be able to locate any further leaks while doing the flush too is another part of my thinking!

[cmm303]

I wonder if the Ford Ranger may use studs on the water pump because mine came with replacement studs which I didn't need for the bongo.

[sloppy7]

Mine also came with studs hence my confusion. I have a pulley and some bolts being delivered from a breakers so if all else fails I can replace the lot. I'm now thinking I may as well replace the belts too. Does it ever end??

Also thanks for the tip on the gasket. Been quoted over £11 for it and after a 5 minute phonecall to Ford they have two coming from the factory tomorrow. At £2.77 it seemed silly to not have a spare!!

[rita]

The Ford ranger uses studs and nuts to secure the pulley and the fan.
The Bongo WLTD use setscrews / bolts to secure the pulley and no fan .

The reason you have been sent studs is the fact that this pump fits both, but the pulley securing arrangements are diffrent.

Good Luck.

[haydn callow]

Good news.....all my parts are here. I'll get one of the clamps sent up to you Haydn early next week. Just contemplating whether to two part radflush the system once I've replaced everything.

Clamp arrived today...many thanks...I would say they are ' just the ticket' ' not as flexible as the NORMA clamps so may not be quite as good for the smaller diameter hoses...but very good value and I would use them.

[haydn callow]

I see 20-32 mil dia is the smallest they do...so ok but you will need Norma for the smaller pipes

[sloppy7]

That's good news! I've not replaced any of the smaller hoses (yet!) but this thread is my reference for when I do!

Update:

1. Pipe is replaced
2.Finally cracked the thermostat housing - 750mm breaker bar did the trick after liberal dousing of 3-2-1 penetrating spray
3. Sheared a water pump pulley bolt.
4. Finally cracked the remaining two and removed the pulley, turns out there was one stud with a missing nut. (I've got a replacement pulley and bolts on the way)
5. Alternator and belts removed
6. Waterpump removed

The waterpump was disgusting on the exterior. I'm think its EGR gunk mixed with some oil seepage from the rocker cover, as my oil levels don't appear to have dropped. The innards of the pump were fairly immaculate, the thermostat was a bit "crusty".

So now all I have to do is to put it all back together and I'll be in a position to flush, fill and then bleed.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

Leigh

[cmm303]

I see 20-32 mil dia is the smallest they do...so ok but you will need Norma for the smaller pipes

Ah yes. I used spring clips (similar to Mazda originals) on smaller hoses and genuine jubilee clips on the two turbo hoses (for no other reason than I hadn't ordered the right spring clips! )

That's good news! I've not replaced any of the smaller hoses (yet!) but this thread is my reference for when I do!

Update:

1. Pipe is replaced
2.Finally cracked the thermostat housing - 750mm breaker bar did the trick after liberal dousing of 3-2-1 penetrating spray
3. Sheared a water pump pulley bolt.
4. Finally cracked the remaining two and removed the pulley, turns out there was one stud with a missing nut. (I've got a replacement pulley and bolts on the way)
5. Alternator and belts removed
6. Waterpump removed

The waterpump was disgusting on the exterior. I'm think its EGR gunk mixed with some oil seepage from the rocker cover, as my oil levels don't appear to have dropped. The innards of the pump were fairly immaculate, the thermostat was a bit "crusty".

So now all I have to do is to put it all back together and I'll be in a position to flush, fill and then bleed.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

Leigh

You've had a tough time.
Little tip: drop the rear heater hoses at the heater to drain a bit more of the old coolant.

[sloppy7]

I forgot to post up the outcome of my work with the invaluable help and advice I received on here. All replaced, flushed, refilled and bled. Engine seems to be running 2-3 degrees cooler too. Went through its MOT with a few advisories so was chuffed with that too and all set, after changing oil and filters, for an autumn trip to the Scottish Highlands in a few weeks time.

Thank you all once again.

Leigh

[Bob]

Well done.