Newbie here.. Hello all.. I have just bought my first bongo a 2.0lt 2001 and seek some guidance if possible.
I have noticed that the rocker gasket is leaking, and having viewed a few it appears to be a common problem.
I have bought a new gasket and would like a guide on how to go about replacing it, is their any special procedures I need to adhere to, what are the torque settings for tightening down the gasket etc. I have read the review for the replacement of a diesel engine but wondered if they differ.
Thanks in advance
2.0ltr rocker gasket replacement
Moderators: Doone, westonwarrior
Re: 2.0ltr rocker gasket replacement
You need to remove the inlet plenum/manifold so it might be wise to source one of those gaskets as well before you start.
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Northern Bongolow
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Re: 2.0ltr rocker gasket replacement
this may help you visualise stuff.
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html.
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html.
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html
Re: 2.0ltr rocker gasket replacement
Hello. Thank you both for your time in replying. The diagram really helps thank you. Hopefully someone will give me the torque settings too.
Re: 2.0ltr rocker gasket replacement
Having viewed the diagram if someone can provide a walk through that would really help. As for the inlet manifold gasket you mention I could not see that on the diagram so would not know what to order.
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Northern Bongolow
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Re: 2.0ltr rocker gasket replacement
the part he stated is on this drawing.
if you click on the numbers on the drawing it opens up on the left, this gives the part number and often a part description, click on it again to close it.
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... no=.html#1
if you click on the numbers on the drawing it opens up on the left, this gives the part number and often a part description, click on it again to close it.
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... no=.html#1
Re: 2.0ltr rocker gasket replacement
Raise the engine covers.
Remove the centre support the part that carries the gear selector,put the gear selector to one side you will have enough space. Unhook the wiring carefully and remove the engine bay temp sensor. Unplug the wiring to the BACS valve lets call this the ISCValve from now on.
At the front the ISCV has two small coolant pipes attached , clamp these off and unhook them.
Unhook the plug from the ISCV and remove the front air pipe. Check the pipe for damage.
At the rear of the engine loosen the ATX cable two bolts and then remove the rear covevr from the rear bulkhead.undo the duct work from the throttle body to the main intake flexy duct, careful here as they bake under there and it is prone to become brittle so treat it gently, loosen the whole duct assembly that should give you the wiggle room you need .Check the elbows for signs of splits leakage etc replace if required, these are not available as far as I can find so you will need a couple of 9 mm nylon elbows fix these in with PU adhesive not silicon sealant on re assembly.
On the nearside there is a small bore pipe that goes from the evap canister to the engine inlet remove this, next to the throttle quadrant you will see a single wire unplug this too if you cannot release the plug cut the single wire leaving yourself enough to remake the joint, release the throttle cable.
On the off side undo the plug to the throttle Potentiometer ( three wire plug),there may be some others I have missed so have a check over for items attached to that plenum. remove the bolts holding the plenum to the inlet manifold and the support bolts dotted about.
You should now be able to lift the plenum off the inlet take care here and bung the inlet with pieces of cloth in case anything drops in while you are working on the rocker cover.
On the top of the cover you will see a small valve with a pipe coming from it , this is a push fit into the cover remove this.
Check it for operation by sucking and blowing this is part of the breather system and is a one way valve wash this in petrol.
Rocker cover
Remove all the bolts from the flange off the rocker cover and remove it. turn the rocker cover over and you will see a baffle plate held down with a number of cross head screws try and get a look down here to check for any blockages very unlikely but while your there etc. Check the rubber elbows on the breathers for signs of perishing if suspect change them.
Remember the valve in the R/Cover check the pipe work that leads from that valve to the Y branch and back to the main inlet duct any sign of damage here change them.
As an aside these engines tend to suffer with idle problems after a while so you may want to strip down the ISCV at the same time and give it a clean along with the throttle butterfly at the other end of the plenum.
Remove the old gaskets and clean all the surfaces ensuring they are nice and clean.
Reassembly.
The following is how I approach this type of gasket.
Using a gasket varnish like Wellseal and a small brush paint the recess where the old gasket sat, allow it to tack slightly before fitting the new gasket into it.
Put it to one side.
Paint the surface of the head rocker flange and the cam semi circles with an even coat of Wellseal. In the corners of the semi circle wipe a bit of the varnish away where it meets the flat plane of the flange and place some silicone gasket sealant four decent blobs, working fairly quickly, paint the face of the new gasket with the varnish and reassemble. check the gasket is fitted correctly and then tighten down the rocker cover working from the middle out opposites at a time evenly to 7nm.
Replace the breather hoses if removed.
Plenum.
Use the same process with the gasket varnish buttering all the faces of the plenum gasket and there mating faces and allow it to tack off.
Refit the plenum tighten the manifold bolts to about 2nm. Now refit all the parts you removed.
Finally wash the oil filler cap in petrol.
Don`t forget to rejoin the idle switch wire if you cut it.
Think that is about it probably missed loads but they will be obvious as you work through it.
Good luck.
Remove the centre support the part that carries the gear selector,put the gear selector to one side you will have enough space. Unhook the wiring carefully and remove the engine bay temp sensor. Unplug the wiring to the BACS valve lets call this the ISCValve from now on.
At the front the ISCV has two small coolant pipes attached , clamp these off and unhook them.
Unhook the plug from the ISCV and remove the front air pipe. Check the pipe for damage.
At the rear of the engine loosen the ATX cable two bolts and then remove the rear covevr from the rear bulkhead.undo the duct work from the throttle body to the main intake flexy duct, careful here as they bake under there and it is prone to become brittle so treat it gently, loosen the whole duct assembly that should give you the wiggle room you need .Check the elbows for signs of splits leakage etc replace if required, these are not available as far as I can find so you will need a couple of 9 mm nylon elbows fix these in with PU adhesive not silicon sealant on re assembly.
On the nearside there is a small bore pipe that goes from the evap canister to the engine inlet remove this, next to the throttle quadrant you will see a single wire unplug this too if you cannot release the plug cut the single wire leaving yourself enough to remake the joint, release the throttle cable.
On the off side undo the plug to the throttle Potentiometer ( three wire plug),there may be some others I have missed so have a check over for items attached to that plenum. remove the bolts holding the plenum to the inlet manifold and the support bolts dotted about.
You should now be able to lift the plenum off the inlet take care here and bung the inlet with pieces of cloth in case anything drops in while you are working on the rocker cover.
On the top of the cover you will see a small valve with a pipe coming from it , this is a push fit into the cover remove this.
Check it for operation by sucking and blowing this is part of the breather system and is a one way valve wash this in petrol.
Rocker cover
Remove all the bolts from the flange off the rocker cover and remove it. turn the rocker cover over and you will see a baffle plate held down with a number of cross head screws try and get a look down here to check for any blockages very unlikely but while your there etc. Check the rubber elbows on the breathers for signs of perishing if suspect change them.
Remember the valve in the R/Cover check the pipe work that leads from that valve to the Y branch and back to the main inlet duct any sign of damage here change them.
As an aside these engines tend to suffer with idle problems after a while so you may want to strip down the ISCV at the same time and give it a clean along with the throttle butterfly at the other end of the plenum.
Remove the old gaskets and clean all the surfaces ensuring they are nice and clean.
Reassembly.
The following is how I approach this type of gasket.
Using a gasket varnish like Wellseal and a small brush paint the recess where the old gasket sat, allow it to tack slightly before fitting the new gasket into it.
Put it to one side.
Paint the surface of the head rocker flange and the cam semi circles with an even coat of Wellseal. In the corners of the semi circle wipe a bit of the varnish away where it meets the flat plane of the flange and place some silicone gasket sealant four decent blobs, working fairly quickly, paint the face of the new gasket with the varnish and reassemble. check the gasket is fitted correctly and then tighten down the rocker cover working from the middle out opposites at a time evenly to 7nm.
Replace the breather hoses if removed.
Plenum.
Use the same process with the gasket varnish buttering all the faces of the plenum gasket and there mating faces and allow it to tack off.
Refit the plenum tighten the manifold bolts to about 2nm. Now refit all the parts you removed.
Finally wash the oil filler cap in petrol.
Don`t forget to rejoin the idle switch wire if you cut it.
Think that is about it probably missed loads but they will be obvious as you work through it.
Good luck.
Re: 2.0ltr rocker gasket replacement
Very thorough Ady, well done. 
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Northern Bongolow
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Re: 2.0ltr rocker gasket replacement
have another look bob. it wernt me 
.
that very very good how to was written by someone who knows what they are doin.
.that very very good how to was written by someone who knows what they are doin.
Re: 2.0ltr rocker gasket replacement
Ok, well,done to Bongolia, and to you for posting again.
And never mind me coat, I'll get me glasses.
And never mind me coat, I'll get me glasses.
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mikeonb4c
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- Contact:
Re: 2.0ltr rocker gasket replacement
If it's not already in a BF fact sheet it ought to be captured into one, with acknowledgement and thanks to Bongolia
Re: 2.0ltr rocker gasket replacement
Wow thank you all for your advice and comments especially Bongolia for you time and knowledge as that is exactly what I was looking for. I was quoted over £200 to repair today so think I will give it a go now.
Re: 2.0ltr rocker gasket replacement
Well thats not a bad price its about four hours work. Good luck.Roy748 wrote:Wow thank you all for your advice and comments especially Bongolia for you time and knowledge as that is exactly what I was looking for. I was quoted over £200 to repair today so think I will give it a go now.
Re: 2.0ltr rocker gasket replacement
Hello.
I thought I would update my post on the rocker cover gasket replacement. Firstly thanks to all those who offered advice.
I initially undertook the task in July having opted to use hylomar gasket seal. Turned out to be a mistake. After cautiously stripping parts off to gain access to the cover, which took longer than I expected as I had never done it before and whilst I tried to use the directions listed on here, I was unfamiliar with the technical terms to know what was being referred to.
My old gasket was the original and had a larger contact point to the cylinder head than the replacement but unfortunately had gone brittle hence the oil leak. After cleaning all surfaces I applied a layer of hylomar to the new gasket and reassembled. All went back well with no breakages etc. Total time of job 5 hours.. Yes that's 5 hours.
Test drive raised slight concern as light oil mark could be seen on one corner. Hoping this was old leak I left to put some more miles on the engine. Sadly it turned out to be a leak, worse in fact than the original. Still being positive, I now knew what procedure I needed to follow.
Rather than clean up the new gasket in order to reuse I purchased another one along with some wynns black gasket maker (silicone). This time around the task took 3 hours which included an hour which I had to give the silicone from fitting to torquing down. I also replaced the inlet Manifold Gasket whilst I was there.
Having now done 100 miles I am pleased to say it appears to be sealed now.
So to sum it up if you have to replace your rocker box gasket expect it to take longer than expected (the first time) and use silicone rather than hylomar.
Oh and check the coolant level after as you will get a small loss of fluid during pipe removal whilst doing the procedure.
I thought I would update my post on the rocker cover gasket replacement. Firstly thanks to all those who offered advice.
I initially undertook the task in July having opted to use hylomar gasket seal. Turned out to be a mistake. After cautiously stripping parts off to gain access to the cover, which took longer than I expected as I had never done it before and whilst I tried to use the directions listed on here, I was unfamiliar with the technical terms to know what was being referred to.
My old gasket was the original and had a larger contact point to the cylinder head than the replacement but unfortunately had gone brittle hence the oil leak. After cleaning all surfaces I applied a layer of hylomar to the new gasket and reassembled. All went back well with no breakages etc. Total time of job 5 hours.. Yes that's 5 hours.
Test drive raised slight concern as light oil mark could be seen on one corner. Hoping this was old leak I left to put some more miles on the engine. Sadly it turned out to be a leak, worse in fact than the original. Still being positive, I now knew what procedure I needed to follow.
Rather than clean up the new gasket in order to reuse I purchased another one along with some wynns black gasket maker (silicone). This time around the task took 3 hours which included an hour which I had to give the silicone from fitting to torquing down. I also replaced the inlet Manifold Gasket whilst I was there.
Having now done 100 miles I am pleased to say it appears to be sealed now.
So to sum it up if you have to replace your rocker box gasket expect it to take longer than expected (the first time) and use silicone rather than hylomar.
Oh and check the coolant level after as you will get a small loss of fluid during pipe removal whilst doing the procedure.