2.0 petrol stalling when idling or braking

[tiffer]

Hi all
I 'm sure this has been covered many times but I can only find posts relating to diesel engines with this problem.

I have been having an ongoing issue for a couple of years, with varying intensity. Engine starts fine every time and idles at about 750, when I drive and slow down by braking or if i'm just cruising to a stop the revs drop to well below 500 and from time to time they drop off completely causing the engine to stall. I have replaced oil, air and fuel filter and thoroughly cleaned the fuel filler cap, but it continues to happen. Some days it's not so bad but other days I find it is dropping very low all the time.
It's also worth mentioning that it idles quite roughly too and that I get a big intake of air when I remove the fuel cap (even though it has been cleaned).

Any ideas??

[Bob]

When you've got half a tank, or less, I'd try running with the cap off.

If that solves it the vent hole is blocked. If you can't find/clean said vent a new cap isn't dear.

[Bongolia]

Hi all
I 'm sure this has been covered many times but I can only find posts relating to diesel engines with this problem.

I have been having an ongoing issue for a couple of years, with varying intensity. Engine starts fine every time and idles at about 750, when I drive and slow down by braking or if i'm just cruising to a stop the revs drop to well below 500 and from time to time they drop off completely causing the engine to stall. I have replaced oil, air and fuel filter and thoroughly cleaned the fuel filler cap, but it continues to happen. Some days it's not so bad but other days I find it is dropping very low all the time.
It's also worth mentioning that it idles quite roughly too and that I get a big intake of air when I remove the fuel cap (even though it has been cleaned).

Any ideas??

tRY bOBS SUGGESTION FIRST AND IF THAT DOESNT HELP THEN GET BACK HERE AND WE CAN GO INTO IT IN A BIT MORE DETAIL.
Sorry about the caps lock cant be typing that in again!

[Bob]

nEVER mIND.

[Bongolia]

A couple of questions that may point us in the right direction.
With the engine at working temperature and idling in P or N switch the air con on and note if the revs drop and then recover.
What was the RPM before you switched on the A/C and what did it recover to if at all.
You say the engine idles roughly , if you increase the rpm to 850 using the throttle pedal does the roughness go away.

The diagnostic socket can be in one of two places or a both. the older type is located behind the glove box and the later ,like in the image, maybe located around the drivers foot well area

What diagnostic socket do you have is it like this ?
https://goo.gl/photos/juZMccxc3wkANiwKA

What distributor do you have is it like this?
https://goo.gl/photos/S4UsrJhYznSSiKaJA

[tiffer]

I haven't managed to try the A/C revs test yet, but hopefully will later tonight.

Driving with the petrol cap off doesn't seem to make any difference.
My distributor looks like this



and my diagnostic socket is just beneath the glovebox and looks like this

[Bongolia]

Ok post up the result of that ac check when you get a chance.

[tiffer]

I took the van for a run and then stopped and checked.
Idle speed in P was around 750 RPM as usual, and it was pretty steady (probably having had a good run). I checked putting A/C on and the revs didn't drop at all. I also tried to up the revs to 850 but as gentle as I could be, the revs jump straight up to well over 1000 RPM, however the engine does run more smoothly when the throttle is applied.

[Northern Bongolow]

where all that oil comin from, is it the dizzy shaft.

[Bongolia]

I took the van for a run and then stopped and checked.
Idle speed in P was around 750 RPM as usual, and it was pretty steady (probably having had a good run). I checked putting A/C on and the revs didn't drop at all. I also tried to up the revs to 850 but as gentle as I could be, the revs jump straight up to well over 1000 RPM, however the engine does run more smoothly when the throttle is applied.

In a way that is a bit of a disappointing result.
When the engine is presented with an additional load the idle should automatically increase to compensate for that load so you would expect to see a momentary drop in RPM and then it rise again to a stable idle.
So we need to prove whether the idle speed control system is working properly or not first.
In a nutshell load the engine up with as as much as you can as fast as you can with the engine in a warm but not at normal running temp this when the ISC would be taxed the most. An octopus may be useful here.
If you can try it again this time do it with engine partially warm and put it into drive whilst putting everything on headlights, rear screen, AC on full cold rear and front blowers etc and watch the rev counter to see the effect.
Ignore the rough idle and the jump in rpm when you try and raise the revs for now.

[tiffer]

pretty sure it needs a new rocker gasket, coming from there i think

[rita]

I took the van for a run and then stopped and checked.
Idle speed in P was around 750 RPM as usual, and it was pretty steady (probably having had a good run). I checked putting A/C on and the revs didn't drop at all. I also tried to up the revs to 850 but as gentle as I could be, the revs jump straight up to well over 1000 RPM, however the engine does run more smoothly when the throttle is applied.

Hi tiffer, do you know for sure that the Air Con is actually working as it should IE the compressor is engaging.? If not there will be No drop in RPM when the AC is switched on.


Good Luck.

[tiffer]

Hi Rita

No i'm not sure the A/C is working, How do I check?

[rita]

Hi Rita

No i'm not sure the A/C is working, How do I check?

The easiest way is to switch AC on and check if the radiator fan is operating, if its working you could also check that your are getting really cold air from the blower when the controls are set to Cold.

Good Luck.

[Bongolia]

Hi Rita

No i'm not sure the A/C is working, How do I check?

In fact any engine load would do the heavier the better. I believe the ECU is sensitive to AC switching though but whatever you can do to load the engine at this time.