Water in cylinder 2

[Um-Bongo]

its a long shot, but look at your fuses, there must be a "lift pump" that sends fuel from the tank to the injection pump.

Edit: ok, it seems there may be no lift pump, so could well be some sort of air lock, its possible the fuel has drained back.

[bongovi]

its a long shot, but look at your fuses, there must be a "lift pump" that sends fuel from the tank to the injection pump.

Edit: ok, it seems there may be no lift pump, so could well be some sort of air lock, its possible the fuel has drained back.

I keep reading on the forums as I search about that it's a self-bleed system, and can take longer than you think to start. Filling the filter with fuel as suggested by Rita seems a good option to speed things up. Not sure if best to siphon out of tank or just nip to the petrol station for a small bottle-full...

Also haven't tried it yet as it sounds like fun to get the filter itself off. Looks like it's about that time tho.

Oh, and others have used primer pumps. Will check I don't have a hand pump on the filter, but I didn't see one at first glance. Crosland filter again (same as oil).

[Um-Bongo]

mm-kay - hopefully its that simple!
filter replacement on the van was quite straight-forwards, but did require pre-filling.

[rita]

Did you fill the filter with fuel and look to see if the unit has a primer, this vehicle does not have a lift pump, the injector pump creates its own vacuum and very often its lost a lot of its SOOK.

[rita]

mm-kay - hopefully its that simple!
filter replacement on the van was quite straight-forwards, but did require pre-filling.

This is all getting a bit confusing , beginning to look like "too many cooks Spoil the Broth)

[bongovi]

Did you fill the filter with fuel and look to see if the unit has a primer, this vehicle does not have a lift pump, the injector pump creates its own vacuum and very often its lost a lot of its SOOK.

Not yet - struggling to get my head around removal instructions. I don't have a filter removal tool/chain, and just figuring out what people mean by removing it from the top, can't see what it pivots around to swing facing upwards.

Doesn't seem to be any primer on the filter itself (that's where it'd be?) - it's a Crosland f30316, reading off it, but I can't find that reference online yet.

EDIT: This is the one fitted http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Mazda ... 4d8&000140

Rita: I know, I know... just need to get some fuel back in the lines. Will try to get it off and fill with diesel asap. Hopefully that'll get something going.

[Ian]

The filters are self priming. Crosland F30316 is compatible with the following:

AMC IF353
Blueprint ADC42305
Blueprint ADK82312
Solid M303006
Mikayo MB433425
NPS M133I09
Motaquip VFF 384
Nippon Micro FT7270
Solid Ace S203012

[bongovi]

The filters are self priming. Crosland F30316 is compatible with the following:

AMC IF353
Blueprint ADC42305
Blueprint ADK82312
Solid M303006
Mikayo MB433425
NPS M133I09
Motaquip VFF 384
Nippon Micro FT7270
Solid Ace S203012

OK Ian. Have tried to turn it over, got to be 10 times by now, so it needs a helping hand - going with Rita's suggestion to fill with fuel once I figure out how to remove the stubborn thing.

[Um-Bongo]

I have a can of Bradex in the shed...

Although I prefer the Auz version:
http://www.nulon.com.au/products/aeroso ... ne_Starter

(Note line 6 under "Diesel engines")

[rita]

The filters are self priming. Crosland F30316 is compatible with the following:

AMC IF353
Blueprint ADC42305
Blueprint ADK82312
Solid M303006
Mikayo MB433425
NPS M133I09
Motaquip VFF 384
Nippon Micro FT7270
Solid Ace S203012

You probably mean that the Injector Pump should be self priming, that was the case many Years ago wear and tear is a big problem with this function The carbon blades etc wear and the vacuum require for self bleeding/priming is not reached. Therefore the poor auld pump often needs a wee bit of Help.

Good Luck.

[bongovi]

Therefore the poor auld pump often needs a wee bit of Help. Good Luck.

Picked up some Bradex (cheers for offer, Um-Bongo - saw last one on shelf at petrol station and grabbed it), diesel and a tip to try the old cam belt to release the fuel filter. There are chain wrenches and 3-leg filter removers on ebay, so will grab one of those if the belt doesn't work.

One thing I did try today, which I'll put here for future readers (to not try) - was Triple QX brake and clutch cleaner spray, in at the air filter when trying to start. It's a solvent, so gave the quickest 1-second blast as a tester recommended by a local mechanic. No joy. Thought I heard it catch a little, but no real firing.

So will stick to filling the filter with diesel next, maybe a small bit of Easy Start if required.

Fingers crossed tomorrow we'll have better luck!

[Um-Bongo]

I've got a chain-thing in the garage, don't buy one!

One thing to remember with the bradex/ start ya bastard is that you should put it in as close to the engine intake as possible, if you squirt it in at the air filter, your entire intake system (2 meters of tubes, turbo, intercooler) will be full of explosive gas - if it backfires, the whole lot could explode. which usually means the intercooler, plastic pipes and various vac lines break.

[bongovi]

I've got a chain-thing in the garage, don't buy one!

Well, we looked in your garage for the chain-thing, but couldn't find one. So today when going to ask to borrow one from the local garage, I was advised instead to pop a manual pump between the filter and the fuel pump. I put it in line with the filter tube going into the top of the pump, far right looking down, and hand pumped some fuel around. Then when turning it over I finally saw fuel in the injectors, so cracked the 1st and 2nd and tightened them back up on sight of fuel when turning over.

Then it happened. The Bongo breathed again.

It fired into life and held onto it through a few lumpy minutes. No Bradex needed! I let it run until smooth and slightly warm (5 mins), popped the Silver Hook engine cleaner juice in as per bottle instructions, then ran again for 5 minutes idling. Dumped that oil, which wasn't too bad at all. Perhaps a slight sludge dripped out after the old 6l was bottled, but nothing horrendous in there. Then changed the filter (hammer a chisel into side, rotate) and filled up with fresh oil. Recommend putting cardboard down first. Drained out the water I'd temporarily filled it with, which had mixed in with residual coolant making it a charming yellowy pink, before refilling with OAT concentrate + water, then bleeding as best we could via the bleed hose/funnel technique.

Then running it again up to temp, starting nicer than it ever has since we've had it, giving some revs caused some 'backspatter' onto pavement of the liquid still swilling around in the exhaust. Cleaned pavement, cleaned oil + tool mayhem, locked up for the night.

Tomorrow the rocker cover, turbo cover, belt cover can all be tightened down, the sheared stud on the turbo side mulled over and I can finally drop the seats into their rightful positions.

So a huge thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. Thanks for your support. Particularly Um-Bongo who of course sacrificed time and toes (in the minus temps) to the cause. I'll put up some pictures when we're all back in position. The cracked head, the amount of coolant pulled out of the oil, the new head... got a few snaps some folks might want to see.

What's next - very careful local runs?

[Bob]

Jolly well done to all involved.

[rita]

Great result well done.




Good Luck.