Solar panel

[bongobaz]

Should be mate, what fuses and wire should i get Got 6 mm solar wire in different lengths with MC4 connectors. but nowt for battery or controller yet.

[briwy]

I used 10amp fuses baz. Not sure what the wire is, got loads of it hanging around so just used the same size as the leads that came from the panel. Not sure what it is actually.
Cable sizing table here which could be useful.

http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html

Another useful bit of info

http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-siz ... ction.html

[bongobaz]

Sent it back cost me £3.

[bongobaz]

New panel Check
controller check
variety of cables {17 amp}check
new ciggy lighter with twin USB on order
All i need now is a wiring diagram and fuses ?
Any ideas Guys.

[g8dhe]

Normally the controller will have a suitable diagram with it.

But basically a single cable of two wires from panel to controller.
Single cable of two wires from controller to battery.
If you want to pick up power near where ever you put the controller then just tap into the connections to the battery cable.

[bongobaz]

Thanks Geoff there is a wiring diagram but its too small to be any use even with my glasses on.
Got the basic idea just not sure of cable and fuse ratings.

[g8dhe]

You don't need to worry about fuses between panel and controller.
You do need to have fuses close to batteries, or other power sources like the EHU supply.

Basically you need a fuse next to any source of power (solar panel is sort of an exception as its construction will limit current in event of a short anyway), hence the need for TWO fuses on the Split Charge Relay linking the TWO batteries, and that does mean on any wire leaving the +ve terminal of a battery or power source.

If you have an EHU power supply close to the SP controller then its probably easier to connect the SP Controller to the EHU supply as that will already have a fuse in the cable running to the battery, but I've never seen your set-up that close too know how your set-up.

[bongobaz]

Cheers again Geoff
I have no EHU But do have a willinton kit.
Would be nice to charge both Batteries but happy with leisure only for now.

LB +/- to controller 17 amp wire via fuse 10amp? on + , near battery.

Controller Load terminals +/- to new ciggy and double USB 17 amp wire with 10amp fuse on +.

Solar panel +/- to controller.

If i'm wrong bear with me, i'm no auto electrician. But i do know what to do
if it catches fire.

[g8dhe]

Yes that would be adequate, 17 Amp cable and 10Amp fuse, personally (but you know how much electronics I carry )I would go higher cable rating for the longer run to the battery as you will only ever increase the current drawn and it is surprising how much voltage drop you get on 3metres or so of cable, like wise I always provide my own -ve return rather than relying on the connections to the chassis as well.

[Dodgey]

how big is the panel if its to big for a bongo roof

Surprisingly most 100W panels are too big for the AFT - they are either too wide to take advantage of tge existing bolt holes, or too long and obscure teh sonroof. I have two types of 100W flex that fit and only one type of framed/rigid.

[bongobaz]

Got a new panel !050mm x 540 mm need to get something to stick it on with any recommendations?

[scootmonkee]

Hello. Your panel has the same dimensions as mine (Bosch 100w back-contact panel from Photonoc Universe).

I fixed mine to the roof, using the two rear the mounting holes in the AFT roof, with self-made brackets and m8 button-head bolts (Allen key variety).

The brackets are very simple, made of 'L'-shaped aluminium profile from eBay (4mm thickness); 2 bolts fix each bracket to the frame with lock nuts, and one bolt, with lock washer, fixes each bracket to the roof. The panel is cushioned against the roof with silicone adhesive bath seal tape, placed all round the bottom edge of the frame (also prevented scraping the roof when fitting).

One thing to think about is where to locate the bracket on the panel frame: site it to sit further back i.e don't place the bracket dead-centre. Setting it to sit further towards the back of the AFT shifts the weight towards the rear and helps reduce strain on the AFT motors (panels are heavy).

Brackets were trial and error but relatively easy (just measure several times before cutting, mark drill points carefully etc.). They have been rock solid for a year, now.

I have wired it very simoly, too - no drilling through the roof, cables tuck under the rear of the AFT, travel the length of the AFT (Mag Daddy magnetic cable ties secure them), down the gutter/pillar at the side of the windscreen, into the bonnet (small pieces of silicone sheet, cut to size, cushioning any points of contact). The contoller (potted against moisture ingress) sits near the battery (heavy duty velcro) and the cables connect to the battery using C-Tek Comfort Connectors (a Comfort Connector is attached to both batteries, so I can choose which to charge via solar).

This gives me a removable set up and is very convenient - I can leave it on for a while, drive with it, if necessary, and remove it when I need to. I have had no water ingress from the cable going into or out of the AFT or the bonnet.

I hope this is of some use to you. Good luck.

[bongobaz]

Great info thanks.