Rear Heater Bi-pass Help.

[Howie1501]

Hi There,

My bongo has sprung a leak on the off side rear heater metal pipe at the T junction. I’m planning to bypass all the rear pipe work by placing another pipe between the input and output of the front heater matrix so the front heater still works.

This will also bi-pass the pipe on the T junction where the pipe has rotted. What does the pipe on the T junction do which looks to go into the engine?

Can I short the front heater input pipe to the front heater return pipe to bi-pass the rear heater and still have the front heater work.

Cheers

Howie

[dave_aber]

You can just blank-off the pipes to/from the rest of the system, coolant does not need to circulate. The rear heater unit is plumbed in parallel with the front.

[Howie1501]

Hi Dave,

Sorry to be a pain. Do you have a diagram which shows me where to blank the pipes off?
If you can't post on here please send to [email protected]

Cheers

Howie

[dave_aber]

This is probably the best diagram : http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

On the offside long pipe (61-2D1), the 'T' piece is at point 'Z'. You need to keep the 'T' and the pipework forward of it, but can remove rubber pipe 61-211A and blank off 61-2D1 at that exit. If the 'T' is rotten, you can cut 61-2D1 forward of the 'T', and connect 61-213 directly to it via an elbow / flexible hose.

You could leave the rear system intact, but blank off the rubber pipe 61-211A which would otherwise back-feed from the nearside pipework through the rear matrix. Of course, with no flow this will be dead-ended and would no longer provide heat, so:

On the nearside long pipe (61-2D2), the 'T' piece is at point 'Y'. You need to keep the 'T', and pipework forward of it, and the feed pipe from the engine 61-214. You can cut 61-2D2 behind the 'T' piece at 'Y', and blank it there, or at the rear end of it where it connects to rubber pipe 61-213A. Alternatively, if that 'T' is rotten, cut 61-2D2 forward of the rot, and bridge to 61-214.

HTH
DA

[Howie1501]

Fantastic, just what I was after.
Looks like I've got a busy day tomorrow.
Great explanation, I owe you a pint..........!!!

Howie

[Howie1501]

Hi There

Rear heater bi passed by my mechanic who then topped up the coolant and took it for a drive. The Bongo overheated again so he told me it must be the cylinder head gasket. I then asked him to watch the coolant bleeding videos on YouTube and we had another go.
This time the engine remained cool and run perfect. I've now given it a good run and it's fine.
Been a member of Bongo Fury has saved me cash again.

Thanks for the replies and I hope this helps other members.

Cheers

Howie

[dave_aber]

Hope he didn't drive far / hard with it needing bled. Sounds like you may have got away with that.

You can probably expect to need a wee top-up in the morning, reasonably common once everything's cooled overnight

[oibaf]

Holy thread resurrection Batman!

*** I don't know what the done-thing is on Bongo Fury with old threads vs starting new threads so open to guidance on this if need be ***

Bertie Bongo (new-to-me) has a small coolant weep just before the T-piece on pipe 61-2D1 (the long steel pipe running under the driver's door). You can see the damp pipe here and the non-standard T-piece with one hose going to the rear heater and one to the engine:



I don't need the rear heater so would be happy to blank this off by installing a blanking piece but I'm guessing that I need to retain pipe 61-213 which runs from the T-piece to the engine block. If so, I could just cut the steel pipe back by a few inches, thus getting rid of the T-piece, then rejoin 61-213 between the steel pipe and the engine block?

If I do the above, do I need to blank off the pipe under the passenger seat too? The one circled in red here:

[oibaf]

Anyone have any opinions on it?