Low coolant alarm and leisure battery chirping.

[al & chris]

When our electrics are turned onto leisure battery and as coolant cools, low coolant alarm starts to slowly come to life and start chirping. It is something to do with sediment on screws in expansion tank. Clean them and it stops for a week or two but then it starts again. Coolant levels are fine. It is the pink type antifreeze we use in coolant. Any suggestions ! It does get annoying when you are just about to go to sleep.

[Simon Jones]

You need to put the LCA back on to the main battery rather than the LB as you have described. Firstly, for the self test to work, it needs to be switched on by the ignition whereas yours sounds like its on all the time. Secondly, the circuit works by passing a small current through the coolant which detects the presence of water between the stainless screw and the vehicle chassis. This simple but effective system requires a nice steady 12v to 14v which you may not get from a LB that has become discharged and may pop the fuse on the split charge when you start the engine and it tries to put charge back in. Thirdly, it wont keep you awake at night .

[haydn callow]

Couldn't put it better myself!!

[Mark Elvin]

Is there an easily accessible place to take the 12v from then?

[Simon Jones]

Any ign controlled circuit in the fusebox will do although as I recall, fuse 1 is a good one unless its been transferred to the LB. Personally, I wired direct to the rear of the instrument panel as I had it apart to fit the LED. The red wires can be seen here going off to the left:

[al & chris]

Thanks Simon, alarm is not live all the time we just have a switch which turns various things like interior lights, blinds radio etc onto leisure battery when camping. Looks like the low coolant alarm is connected to some wiring that comes live when this swich is turned on. I should know which because I fitted it but can't remember which one, was it the radio! Will try to find a supply that is only on with ignition. I hate electrics.

[Velocette]

A very simple solution is to use a piggyback fuse holder. It plugs in in place of any fuse that becomes live with the ignition on and has two fuse ways, one for the donor fuse which will work exactly as before and one for your new piece of kit with a wire tail to connect to. Car audio places sell them.