To Radweld or not to Radwled - that is the question...

Technical questions and answers about the Mazda Bongo

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paulmorgan
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To Radweld or not to Radwled - that is the question...

Post by paulmorgan » Sat Dec 01, 2012 5:50 pm

Since my coolant loss issue - see previous post, expansion tank cap not on properly - I have noticed some steam issue from the radiator. Don't know if this was an existing issue I'd not noticed or caused by the incident. Obviously my full attention is on the cooling system at the moment and it's only just gone cold making the steam more obvious than perhaps it would've been in the summer.

The steam appears to come from behind the passenger side fan rather than from the join between the metal core and plastic top tank that seems to be an obvious weak point. It only kicks in when the stat reaches temp and the rad comes into the circuit. There isn't much, if any, coolant loss overnight. The steam is visible from inside the car with the bonnet closed when you're sat in traffic but not enough to steam up my glasses when I'm peering down at the radiator. I can't see any drips from the hoses.

I've read as many of the threads that I can about RadWeld - some have used it successfully, others caution against the damage it could do elsewhere by sludging up the system. I have successfully used it on a car before but I guess I was less bothered about it (it was only a Rover FFS).

Just before xmas is not a good time for £200+ labour for a new rad. I don't drive it that much, it's an urban Bongo that mainly only gets let out for weekends and holidays.

Any thoughts on whether Radweld is worth a go to tide me over or not worth the risk?
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Re: To Radweld or not to Radwled - that is the question...

Post by M 80NGO » Sat Dec 01, 2012 6:15 pm

Radweld or any other similar solution is a temperary repair to get you home only buddy, so i'd say don't use it, if you don't drive her much then park her up until you can get her repaired properly. :wink:
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Northern Bongolow
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Re: To Radweld or not to Radwled - that is the question...

Post by Northern Bongolow » Sat Dec 01, 2012 6:16 pm

check the windscreen washer and motors behind the front nearside headlight, the pipe may have come off or the tank has a leak where the motors just push into the tank, when/ if this leaks it could get onto the bottom of the rad, then steam off when the stat comes into play.
take out the headlight and the 2 mounting bolts and then check the tank well.

if its ok go to any good garage to get the coolant system pressure tested, this will show any leak in the system, then decide if a repair is ness.

having just spent several days working on someones bongo that had been dosed with rad weld 6 months ago, i can recommend that i would NEVER use it. #-o
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Re: To Radweld or not to Radwled - that is the question...

Post by Simon Jones » Sun Dec 02, 2012 12:34 am

I used Radweld on a car before I sold it and all it did was turn fresh antifreeze a horrible shade of brown and clog up the header tank. Ended up flushing it all out again, plus new antifreeze. Did it fix the leak? Don't know, it was only very slight and the car has long since left the area.
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Re: To Radweld or not to Radwled - that is the question...

Post by mister munkey » Sun Dec 02, 2012 1:15 am

If I understand it correctly, this stuff works by lining the entire system with a gungey coat of sealant. It may get you home in an emergency but at some point the horrors of having all the plumbing including sixteen or so hoses, the rad & two heater matrixs being clogged up with even more sludge than normal, is going to present you with some huge headaches. Its like a mechanical version of cholesterol blocked arteries.

I think that stuff is aimed at dodgy car dealers keen to shift a dodgy fiesta off a forecourt rather than anyone planning on keeping a cherished vehicle on the road.
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Re: To Radweld or not to Radwled - that is the question...

Post by widdowson2008 » Sun Dec 02, 2012 12:35 pm

mister munkey wrote:If I understand it correctly, this stuff works by lining the entire system with a gungey coat of sealant. It may get you home in an emergency but at some point the horrors of having all the plumbing including sixteen or so hoses, the rad & two heater matrixs being clogged up with even more sludge than normal, is going to present you with some huge headaches. Its like a mechanical version of cholesterol blocked arteries.

I think that stuff is aimed at dodgy car dealers keen to shift a dodgy fiesta off a forecourt rather than anyone planning on keeping a cherished vehicle on the road.
Couldn't agree more Mr. M.
I know it's the rad he is trying to fix but...............
I had similar experience using additives when trying to fix spenners cracked head. He tried 'steelseal' and I was amazed (nay - STUNNED) at the resulting gunge collected on the thermostat. This gunge will have permeated throughout the system, INCLUDING the small bore heater matrix pipes.
In the end, spenner bought a new head but it took ages to flush the system clear of the steelseal.
IMHO, these additives should be used as a 'get-you-home' - not a long term fix.
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Re: To Radweld or not to Radweld - that is the question...

Post by paulmorgan » Sun Dec 02, 2012 2:07 pm

@ Northern Bongolow: Definitely got a leak from the washer bottle - it's out now and I'm seeing where that comes from - possibly just one of the motors slightly unseated. The rear motor didn't work so a good excuse to repair that as well. At least that was a quick job.

Not sure if the washer leak is the cause of the steam - will go for a drive in due course and see if I get the same problem with the bottle removed.

I love this forum...
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Northern Bongolow
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Re: To Radweld or not to Radwled - that is the question...

Post by Northern Bongolow » Sun Dec 02, 2012 6:47 pm

try this.
http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... asher+pump.

also check the bottom disc (base plate) on the motors, when the pump freezes up, they expand and split the bottom out, this is not at all obvious but any gap in the disc to side will cause a leak.
ive had this on a few,i just smear them with a 2 part epoxy type glue. 8)

#-o . edit. just read your other post, you found it. 8)
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Re: To Radweld or not to Radwled - that is the question...

Post by paulmorgan » Sun Dec 02, 2012 7:45 pm

Yes - had read that other thread and found it useful: knowing which bits you can safely pull/lever apart is a boon. The rear pump was seized and the front pump was the leak culprit - out of the bottom of it. Layered on some epoxy, soak tested for a couple of hours and I think I'm good to go.
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Northern Bongolow
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Re: To Radweld or not to Radwled - that is the question...

Post by Northern Bongolow » Sun Dec 02, 2012 7:51 pm

sorted =D> 8) :lol:
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Re: To Radweld or not to Radwled - that is the question...

Post by mister munkey » Sun Dec 02, 2012 7:58 pm

=D> =D> =D>
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Re: To Radweld or not to Radwled - that is the question...

Post by Diplomat » Tue Dec 04, 2012 11:01 am

mister munkey wrote:...
I think that stuff is aimed at dodgy car dealers keen to shift a dodgy fiesta off a forecourt rather than anyone planning on keeping a cherished vehicle on the road.
I remember, back in the 1960s, it was rumoured that dodgy dealers cured noisy gearboxes and diffs by feeding nylon stockings in through the filler holes. Presumably the nylon melted under heat but surely must have solidified again when cool.

Never heard this story recently. Perhaps knackerd cars nowadays just end up at the breakers.


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