glowplug light flashing

[cavey]

Hi gang. I'm fairly new to Bongo-ing, having owned one for only a couple of months. Loving it!

Y reg, 2001 2.5 TD 4WD

I have searched to forum and read a lot, but I'm asking anyway in case somebody can come back with a quick fix (I can dream, can't I?).

The orange glowplug lamp started flashing when stuck in a motorway traffic jam a month back. The turbo stopped working - 'limp mode' so I have read. After I was home and it had cooled, it was fine afterwards for a few medium length journeys - no flashing.

After the Bongo has been standing for 3 weeks, the first drive and this lamp came on after only a mile. This time, no loss of turbo. Everything else seemed fine and again it stopped once cool. Another short journey later that day, and when I put my foot down going from a 30 into a 60, it came on again. No loss of turbo.

I have read that the post ' 99 models should display any error code on the dash lamp, but it just a steady flash, around 1second on and 1 second off.

My thoughts so far, from what I've found on the forum:

I've tried removing the scavenger fan sensor connector, and the fan does not seem to start - I believe it should? But after only a mile, would it really be that hot?

I have a leisure battery fitted with a standard relay that flips when the ignition is on (i.e. not voltage sensing). I think the battery may be on it's last legs as it's not holding charge for that long, but as it is in parallel with the SB when the engine is on, could this still cause a problem? Volts measured at the fag lighter during normal driving is 14v.

Any help, greatly appreciated.

Cheers, Dave.

[g8dhe]

Its unlikely to be the battery that's causing the problem in this situation. If the light is flashing then you need to trigger the code readout otherwise its just a warning light try his page for starters http://www.philmcfadden.co.uk/MazdaDiagnosticBox.htm, there is also a couple of Factsheets in the Members area of the Club on the codes etc. see the link top centre.

[Tidmo]

Hi Dave. Sorry to hear of your problems, I had similar issues with my 2000 model. Not really being too techie myself the best thing to do is get a Bongo savvy garage to plug yours in and get the code read. ADS in Bristol and Bell hill in Bath I can highly recommend but maybe too far from you.
Hope this is vaguely helpful and good luck in sorting your problem.

[cavey]

Thanks for the replies. I'll attempt to get the error code first off - that should point me in the right direction.......

Cheers,

Dave.

[cavey]

OK, so I have the code P1228 - Wastegate Failed Open (Under pressure). I've had a peruse of the forum and there seem to be a few causes.

The only other clue, is that I understood that if you disconnect the sensor by the handbreak, a fan (the scavenger?) should come on. This is not happening.

The lamp has flashed at me in the following circumstances, which all point at a heat related issue:

When I was stuck in a jam on the motorway.
When I have been diving up a long hill (with the engine already up to temperature)
When I have driven up a hill, when the engine is still warming up (and possibly the thermostat hasn't opened)
When I have accelerated hard from 0 - 60

So do you think it could be related to this sensor and/or the fan it is supposed to switch on?

I will have a look this weekend at all the suggested causes: the wastegate rod and actuator, vacuum tubes collapsing, the 'Northern Japan valve' on the exhaust, operated from the switch on the dash.

It's a new shape Bongo.

Cheers,

Dave

[321Away]

is that the only fault code your getting Dave, no others (like a 0400),just a 1228

Julian

[cavey]

is that the only fault code your getting Dave, no others (like a 0400),just a 1228

Julian

Hi Julian (and thanks for all your help so far!)

Yes, I believe it's just 1228. It cycled through 3 times.

Dave.

[321Away]

only time i've seen a 1228 ON ITS OWN,is the when the turbo control solenoid has failed. Follow the (vacuum) pipe back from the actuator and you'll find a T piece, keep goin (all under passenger seat) and you'll find the solenoid, usually brown, with 1 pipe out (horizontal) and 2 pipes at the other end (vertical, 1 in(nearest you),the other to the turbo) with a 2 pin connector, try applying power to the pins to hear if the solenoid clicks (open). Another quick test is with the engine running,pull off the vertical pipes and hold the ends together (doesnt have to be super seal) and watch the wastegate (yes i know its not really a wastegate!) actuator, it should go full deflection.
I've seen a few of these valves failed recently,probably 5 in last year,but never before that,so maybe they have a service life, as i know they constantly click open/closed when then engine is running

Julian

[cavey]

Thanks Julian.

The solenoid seems to work fine with 12v across it - a definite click. The hoses weren't coming off easily, and I was worried about damaging the connections, so I didn't try joining the two together. If I manually move the actuator, with the engine off, I can hear a spring stretch. The movement is mostly smooth, but a couple of time I tried, it was a bit lumpy, but free again afterwards. I've read another post by you that suggests the turbo gasket breaks down and starts to restrict the movement, so could it be this....?

As soon as I start the engine, the actuator moves about half way across, and then settles down a little closer to the starting position. I noticed it was vibrating side to side a little, but then it seemed to stop doing this. I had a quick drive with the passenger seat up (very noisy!), and glanced at it when it was safe to do so. It seemed to be moving OK after I took the power off, but I'd say generally it was hovering around the middle. Does all this sound normal?

The solenoid you mention is rattling away constantly with the engine on tickover. I would guess at around 5-10 times a second, so sounding like a low frequency square-wave. No wonder these wear out!

Other posts suggest the vacuum valve under the drivers seat. Is there a way of testing this, or is it best just to replace, and if so where can I source one?

I will also lift the seat and take a look at the actuator if (when) I have the lamp coming on again.

So many questions! I'm new to Bongos os have a lot to learn, but hopefully I'l be able offer advice back at some point!

Cheers,

Dave

[321Away]

yep the solenoid clicks as it applies vaccum to the actuator then switches over to atmosphere, thats why the actuator rod bounces back and forth. The solenoids on the drivers side can be tested in exactly the same way,apply power and there should be a definite click as the solenoid changes state.

I know what you mean about the turbo solenoid connections! with most pipe commections, i always find it best to twist the connection before trying to pull it off, once it releases by being twisted it usually comes off pretty easily. you'll need to practice cos there are 4 solenoids under the drivers seat

Julian

[Titan1995]

I was running my engine after top end rebuild without the centre "Saddle". Glow plug light was flashing, it went off when the scavenger fan sensor was reconnected.

[savagebongo]

Hi Dave,

I have the same problem as you. The glow lamp light has started flashing twice with loss of the turbo at the same time. After the Bongo cools down it its back to normal. Both occasions were when the Bongo was being driven fast on the motorway.
Bongo is a 2000 diesel 4ed.
Wondering if.found the source of the problem?
Thanks
Peter

[321Away]

Hi Dave,

I have the same problem as you. The glow lamp light has started flashing twice with loss of the turbo at the same time. After the Bongo cools down it its back to normal. Both occasions were when the Bongo was being driven fast on the motorway.
Bongo is a 2000 diesel 4ed.
Wondering if.found the source of the problem?
Thanks
Peter

Check vacuum valves under drivers seat, from your description i'd suspect more that its the turbo, the internal gasket seperates and after some serious use (high speed) when you back off the power, the heat soak causes the wastegate mechaism to stick. To test it, lift the passenger seat and grab the wastegate actuator rod (with pliers!) and work it back and forth, its spring loaded to close itself, try it about 10 time to see that the action remains smooth, then try again when the car is hot, if its works smooth then its the vacuum valves, if its sticky (especially when hot) then its likely to be the turbo.

There is a 3rd option that i have been working with a couple of garages to solve but as such none of us have managed to resolve it and it ONLY happend with later shape vehicles?? the second temperature sensor that commands ecu etc seems to have a fit and even replacing it doesnt fix it? as there seems to b an almost 20 degree temp variation across the head? considering blocked waterways or similar but the outcome is the same, the rear temp sensor seems to go outside its working range and thinks the car is overheating??

Julian