Hi all,
I've bought a remote central locking kit and if time allows intend to fit over the weekend.I have a few questions to ask...
I've downloaded the fact sheet but some things are not clear enough.More information please..
Do you need a 2 wire or 5 wire actuator to fit these kits
What is the bongo a positive or negative trigger
What are the wires in the central locking harness for black, blue, and green/white
The instructions that came with the kit are a bit vauge,well to me any way
Many thanks Dave
Remote Central Locking Question
Moderators: Doone, westonwarrior
Remote Central Locking Question
2.5 Diesel.Full Side Conversion
Re: Remote Central Locking Question
the best i can do is describe mine that i fitted.My actuator had two wires so i used the wiring for a two wire actuator that was shown in the reciever diagram.as to the switching it was trial and error i tries each scenario until it worked and then made sure it locked and unlocked correctly.If i remeber correctly mine was a negative pulse actuator
Re: Remote Central Locking Question
I used a two wire actuator.. My CL is run from the alarm system, plus i have total window closure too.
Run the two wires to the actuator via the door loom & keep the box of tricks where it can't be damaged by shock/water ingress. Ideally, either in the drivers footwell under the beeping stuff, or there's a space at the end of the dash if you remove the end panel with the vent to the door??
The actuator pushes/pulls a rod (in my case i used a heavy length of wire coat hanger) which in turn drives the existing manual locking system in the drivers door.
Best to set up the receiver so it works, find the two wires that send the pulse to trigger the actuator, (use a meter to test.) if you get the wires round the wrong way all that will happen is it will lock when you press open on the fob & visa versa.. You got a 50/50 chance.. Swap over if wrong!
Hope this helps..!
Run the two wires to the actuator via the door loom & keep the box of tricks where it can't be damaged by shock/water ingress. Ideally, either in the drivers footwell under the beeping stuff, or there's a space at the end of the dash if you remove the end panel with the vent to the door??
The actuator pushes/pulls a rod (in my case i used a heavy length of wire coat hanger) which in turn drives the existing manual locking system in the drivers door.
Best to set up the receiver so it works, find the two wires that send the pulse to trigger the actuator, (use a meter to test.) if you get the wires round the wrong way all that will happen is it will lock when you press open on the fob & visa versa.. You got a 50/50 chance.. Swap over if wrong!
Hope this helps..!
Cheaper by comparison to a race horse...
Re: Remote Central Locking Question
Thanks for the replies i'll try and have another look tommorow.Dave
2.5 Diesel.Full Side Conversion
Re: Remote Central Locking Question
Just for info - I used an earth wire from the electric window junction box rather than earthing to the body of the door with a screw - as I did not get a good earth that way.