Glow plug amperage

[poppymad]

Could anyone please tell me how many amps SHOULD be drawn by the glow plugs on start up?
Also could a faulty temperature sender be responsible for blowing the in line fuse next to the battery?
Thanks
Kate

[missfixit70]

This continues on from this topic - http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... 09&start=0 .
I can't see that a faulty temperature sender would affect the current drawn by the glow plugs.
I found an old post that said the glow plugs blew a 25amp fusible link when that was used to replace the 30amp one, so I'd assume it's somewhere between 25 & 30 amps, don't know what the exact figure is suposed to be though.
I'd disconnect, clean up & reconnect any connections that have been touched in changing the glow plugs, fusible link or any of the other parts replaced.

[WebWiz]

I know this is an old post but I have a similar issue... Well exactly the same actually...

Rail shorted due to wrong length plugs after we bought bongo from previous chap who had just changed them. We did 600 miles across a couple of months OK before it not starting one day.

Changed the plugs and fitted inline blade fuse but 30a keeps blowing.

I know everyone seems to say that plugs should only draw 30a but that's the Mazda OE spec from 20 years ago. Are the blueprint ADK81801 plugs pulling just over (31a as mentioned by OP) and blowing a blade fuse whereas a link wire would put up with slightly longer over-amped?

I have also mentioned this (off topic) on my other post (Mods feel free to smack my hand and lock/delete as required) https://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum ... =3&t=74771

[g8dhe]

The fuse type your using is the problem, they need to be Slow-Blow very slow! They draw up to 100 Amps at switch on before reducing to about 4 Amps each, 16 Amps in total after several seconds. This is why its a Fusible Link rather than a fuse that blows in a few 100 ms. Fusible links are available from the Bongo Fury shop, see here for further details viewtopic.php?p=687521#p687521

[WebWiz]

Thanks for info.

Are they available to buy again then? Guessing they are new "Home-brew" versions rather than black OE versions.

Would a j-type or Maxi-Blade "Slow-blow" type fuse do the job?

Would rather buy a new £3 fuse from any motor shop than replace an obsolete link wire.

Thanks

[g8dhe]

The wire is exactly the same type as used in the originals and similar heat resistant insulation, the only difference is the black plastic connector shell which is no longer available unless you want to make a MOQ of 10,000, hence the use of heat shrink tubing to insulate the connector. Standard Slow-Blow fuses are still to fast unless you overate the fuse for the wire it is protecting.

[WebWiz]

Thanks.

Guess I'll be adding one to my cart then.

Also guess it won't be posted until after bongo bash?

Thanks for all the advice. You definitely seem to know your stuff.

[g8dhe]

AVA leisure still claim they have some originals in stock https://mazdabongo.com/catalog/mazda-bo ... ll-models/

[WebWiz]

Did you speak to them? Website says out of stock

[g8dhe]

Ah yes I missed the small writing! So maybe you will have to wait till Monday - or pop into Stourport!

[WebWiz]

Don't think the wife will bee happy if I drag her to a field on our 10th wedding anniversary

[Bob]

She'll love Stourport.

[WebWiz]

Thread revival...

I've been away for a while after almost giving up on the overheating pile of sh....

Anyway... After a reconditioned engine, new rad, water pump, and oil pump she's now running lovely but the new fuse link, which I got from here, is smoking and keeps smoking even after I hear the relay click off.

Any idea why it keeps drawing current after the click?

[g8dhe]

The only reason for that will be a partial short and/or a welded closed relay, Check out the relay itself and then make certain there are no shorts on the glowplug busbar to the engine frame.