Head Gasket removal ancillary bits Help!!

[Bob]

Well done.

[JulesMartin]

More help needed guys please! All back together at last and finally got to turn the key this afternoon but no start. It has been up on ramps for nearly 3 weeks so I suspect that the fuel may have run back and is now causing an air lock. Heater plugs have 12V on the rail when cranking. There is no fuel at the injectors. I deliberately didn't change the fuel filter on the basis of if it ain't broke.. but have one to change after I've got it started. There is a big solenoid on top of the pump just above the injector pipes and there is voltage there and it clicks when switching on the ignition. I have read on a post about bleeding the system through to the injectors but there was not an explanation and of course all searches on "bleeding" refer to the water system! Is there a way of manually bleeding the fuel system and if so please how? I'm going to get a gallon of clean fuel in the morning and put the pipe from the filter to the pump directly into the clean new fuel to see if that helps. It drove up onto the ramps 3 weeks ago so I can't see that it can be anything other than an air lock. As always guys any help would be most especially appreciated. I wonder if any of the vacuum pipes off or in the wrong place would stop fuel at the injectors? I'm cranking the engine by just turning the key as the seats are still out. There is no need to have the brake depressed is there? Plenty of battery and cranking really well just no Fuel.

[JulesMartin]

I killed our starter brushes pumping it on the key, new brushes and a referb taught me to use a vacuum suction method to draw it upto the pump first, home made device from a grouting gun on the pipe after the fuel filter did the job, then loosen the metal pipes on the injectors, wrap oily cloth over the top leaving enough to see, crank until 4 wet nuts appear, that should bleed the pipes

Thanks for the help. Wife has interjected as Bongo is delaying Christmas so shopping today and decs tomorrow hospital on Wed so not going to get a chance to try your advice until Thursday . Fingers crossed then. Cheers

[JulesMartin]

Fingers crossed it's all looking good so far. Took all the advice and rushed round like a loon to get back in front re Christmas so managed to get out and have another go yesterday. Created a huge syringe from a mastic gun and sucked the fuel up to the outlet side of the filter. Then I removed the banjo filter and squirted the now full (clean) mastic tube full of diesel into the pump directly. took a tiny amount bit by bit but eventually filled up the chamber below the banjo connector. Cranked the engine for about 5 seconds and she spluttered into life, stalled and then started again sweet as a nut. Sounds really nice and solid now with the exhaust manifold skimmed and tight with no leaks. Bled the air out of the water system and this time no massive burps of scalding water. Took a long time and really difficult single handed but all seems ok. Max temp recorded at the back of the head with my digital gauge was 89. All the fans are coming on and off including the scavenger so now just a case of putting the center arch back, bolting on the passenger seat and a test drive. Thanks again for all who have contributed in getting me and my bongo this far. Could not have done it without you.

[Bob]

Yep, respect to all the peeps on here who freely help with great info and personal experience.

No Forum like this.

[JulesMartin]

I think the pressure test is a good idea. I've seen one on here. I'll have a look at knocking something up. Got to be worth it in the long run. Thanks for the advice. even though I drained it all down there is still an awful lot of evidence of K Seal still lurking about so maybe there is a slight leak that still hasn't been spotted.

[JulesMartin]

The only reasons i suggest a pressure test is for peace of mind, I recently found weeping alloy components, this is amplified when upto temperature.
Call it paranoia, but 99% of my pipe joints have 2 clips on them to make sure, on the inner side the original spring clips (only tight enough if pipe and hose faces are good/clean/new)
And outside end of pipes have jubilee clips (tighter than springs, but could cut into pipe if too light).
@Bob... I love helping people to learn, just seems like not many want to learn anything these days.

I'll always take peoples advice when offered especially when gained from experience...why wouldn't you? Why fumble about unsure when somebody can lead you by the hand. I've said it before but this forum is one of the best that I've been on.

[JulesMartin]

Bottom! Finally got a free day yesterday to finish off the Bongo. As you know I'm single handed at the moment so going from tank to bleed tube is difficult. I made up a plastic reservoir to keep the expansion tank full which i could see from the passenger seat. after an hour of see sawing, revving and more see sawing I was getting no bubbles at all which was a great result for me as I'd not been able to get to this point prior to the head skimming. put all the panels and seats back tidied up and took it for a test drive. First 15 minutes all ok as the digital temperature gauge held steady at 85. with a smile on my face decided to turn for home when suddenly the low water alarm started beeping and flashing and the temperature gauge began to rise. only half a mile from home and in the pitch dark I had no option but to chance it. As i pulled up the drive the temperature was at 110. switched off the engine then turned the ignition back on to let the fans do their things. after letting it cool down for a bit with torch in hand I poured some mix into the expansion tank only to hear the trickle of water from underneath. lifted the passenger seat and there was the hose from the thermostat housing hanging off with the spring clip 3 or 4 inches up the hose. I'd obviously neglected to put the clip back on (Roockieee!!) So tomorrow i start the whole bleeding process again made even more difficult with all my fingers crossed!!!

[Bob]

Oh poo.

Rotten luck.

[JulesMartin]

This seems never ending I am sorry to keep posting. Well it seems I got away with it regarding not cooking the new head. refitted the hose this afternoon and bled it again (Getting a dab hand at it now!) quite a lot of air out and all seemed ok. sniff test proved ok with the fluid staying blue. but then the temp kept on rising until the temp alarm went off at 91 degrees. I may have the alarm set a little low but then realised that none of the fans were on. they have previously always worked so not sure what that's all about. Am I right in assuming the controlling sensor is the one under the inlet manifold towards the rear just above the starter motor? Also the heater is still not getting hot. when I turn the fan on it blows hot for a few seconds then slowly goes cold again. I'm thinking with all the work that's been done and all the filling and draining that it may now have a blockage in the matrix. the rear one seems reasonably hot but the front one is nowhere near what it used to be. And finally I've noticed a small weep at the junction where the rear heater inlet hose joins a Tee piece with a hose going towards the rear heater and a metal hose going forward. does anybody know if these metal pipes can be sourced or could I do a cut and put a plastic Tee in? Any help as always really appreciated.

[Ian]

Jules, all the pipes and hoses are available through the Bongoland shop, see https://bongoland.co.uk/product-categor ... nt-system/. Those that aren't listed can be obtained from Japan. But watch out for Christmas postage delays.

[JulesMartin]

Jules, all the pipes and hoses are available through the Bongoland shop, see https://bongoland.co.uk/product-categor ... nt-system/. Those that aren't listed can be obtained from Japan. But watch out for Christmas postage delays.

Morning Ian, thanks for your time. In true keeping with my luck at the moment that's the pipe that's out of stock I'm going to order up the fan temp sensor from here though so thanks again for your help

[Ian]

Latest delivery from Japan has arrived and pipe now back in stock. Shall I put one aside for you?

[JulesMartin]

Latest delivery from Japan has arrived and pipe now back in stock. Shall I put one aside for you?

Sorry Ian, I was a bit impetuous and eager to get it sorted before Christmas so ordered one from Bongo Spares but did order the fan switch from here as it is the original and heard some bad stuff about OEM versions. Thanks for your time though

[TheLongRoad]

If it's the metal pipe that runs under the drivers seat - that's a joy to fit. You need to lift the van off ground to get the wriggle room to locate it around everything else. (that was the case on the 2.0ltr anyway).

Whilst you are there check the 'return' steel pipe that goes across the rear of the engine as this is likely to be in a similar condition. That particular steel pipe on the 2.0ltr looked impossible to remove / replace. I used a suitable length of race car spec rubber hose right across and left the old steel one disconnected but in place.

Hope this helps.