New Bongo Member

[JF117]

Hi,

Apologies in advance to the regulars on this forum who are probably thinking 'there is a thread for that'.

I have looked thoroughly through the existing threads, some of which are useful some of which I am kindly requesting that some of you either post back here or point me in the direction of any existing threads.

In essence, just bought a bongo ( ) and I want to know your top tips on everything, which is to say:

• 1. Mechanical Tips - what are some of your best maintenance tips to keep the Bongo in sound working order mechanically
  1.1 the coolant looked good under the bonnet
  1.2 the cylinder head looked great, no cracks etc
  1.3 the hoses look good
  1.4 the oil was very clean
  1.5 the hot air blew through to the cabin when engine was warm suggesting things seem to be in good working order.
  1.6 best websites for spare parts?
  
  2. Insurance Tips
  2.1 tried admiral and they said no (lol..)
  
  3. Any extra add-ons like roof racks, good leisure battery's, rear racks, sun shades etc?
  3.1 Particularly interested to know if I put a roof rack on, what are the do's and don'ts when putting up the roof - empty the roof rack obviously..?
  3.2 How would I check if the current battery I have is in good order
  3.3 Any recommendations on Sun Shades for the front side of the vehicle / rear window - all the sides have electric shades
  3.4 A bongo cover - would a transporter car cover fit the bongo or does anyone have any recommendations for a cover when the vehicle is stationary (in my driveway for eg).
  
  4. When putting up my roof, which goes up just fine, I noticed that the beeping noise (which is to let you know its moving) doesn't stop unless I take the keys out - is this normal?

To give the reader a bit more background, I obtained my Bongo from another evidently enthusiastic Bongo admirer as when I conducted all my checks, everything looked great.

The vehicle itself has been professionally converted and is quite aesthetically modern. The only thing that doesn't make it next to absolutely perfect is there are some signs of rust and bubble around the usual sore spots, which was honestly not that bad. In any case, since I want my Bongo to last for as long as possible and potentially serve someone else after me, I am bringing it to a local body repair specialist and epending on the price, I might go for a full re-spray.

At the very least, I will be instructing the specialist to tackle any signs of rust.

Would be much appreciated for all or any Bongo tips!

Thanks!

[g8dhe]

Welcome to the group!
Not sure how you checked the head for cracks ? The cracks when they occur are inside the cylinder head itself;

As to loading things on the roof, there are fixing points on the roof 8mm (on the AFT) used for racks, but you will need to remove any load before lifting the roof as the motors are very expensive to replace if you damage them!

To check the battery you need to use a proper load tester to check what the voltage does when a load is applied, plenty of garages / stores will test this for you.

Covers for the vehicle can be a problem they trap the moisture and can cause wear marks on the paint work according to previous reports, also letting the vehicle sit and moulder is never a good idea, they need regular use otherwise AirCon and other mechanical items deteriorate rapidly.

The beeping when raising the roof should stop when fully raised, there is a limit switch that turns the motor off, however its very common for the gas struts to have lost some pressure over the last 20+ years and need replacing see http://www.sgs-engineering.com/car-boot ... azda/bongo

[Bob]

Hi, and welcome.

Roof bars are available from Southern Bongos, via e bay- very nice stainless.

Regular oil changes, and as Geoff says, drive it regularly.

Tayna are good for batteries.

When raising the roof they sometimes need just a little manual assistance from inside for the last inch or so.

Sun shades, car shop or internet.

Enjoy your Bongo.

[JF117]

Not sure how you checked the head for cracks ? The cracks when they occur are inside the cylinder head itself;
Head-cylinderNo3copy-1.jpg

Well, I mean a visual check on the head itself underneath the drivers side seat. It didn't look like it was dun goofed is all I'm saying, but thanks for that tip!

The beeping when raising the roof should stop when fully raised, there is a limit switch that turns the motor off, however its very common for the gas struts to have lost some pressure over the last 20+ years and need replacing see http://www.sgs-engineering.com/car-boot ... azda/bongo

Thanks again! Is it a big deal? It stops when I turn the keys off, should I really have a look at that?

Hi, and welcome.

Roof bars are available from Southern Bongos, via e bay- very nice stainless.

Regular oil changes, and as Geoff says, drive it regularly.

Tayna are good for batteries.

When raising the roof they sometimes need just a little manual assistance from inside for the last inch or so.

Sun shades, car shop or internet.

Enjoy your Bongo.

Thanks!

[g8dhe]

The roof beeping is showing that the motors are taking more of the strain of lifting the roof than the gas struts, the motors are EXPENSIVE to replace, whilst the gas struts are a tenth of the price, also if the motors fail you will have a major problem in raising the roof to replace them (they are under the roof at the rear sides!) so it pays to replace the gas struts ASAP rather than wait and find the motors have failed

Mazda Bongo Genuine Roof Lifting Motor – All Models – 1995 onwards £238.79 inc VAT and that's each!
MAZDA BONGO 1995-2005 CAMPER VAN ROOF GAS STRUT £29.99 inc. vat each

Replacing the struts is fairly easy to do see https://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum ... =3&t=68281
another consideration is that if only one side fails/jams its very easy for the roof itself to be damaged needing further repairs to the GRP roof itself which can also be an expensive job.

[JF117]

The roof beeping is showing that the motors are taking more of the strain of lifting the roof than the gas struts, the motors are EXPENSIVE to replace, whilst the gas struts are a tenth of the price, also if the motors fail you will have a major problem in raising the roof to replace them (they are under the roof at the rear sides!) so it pays to replace the gas struts ASAP rather than wait and find the motors have failed

Mazda Bongo Genuine Roof Lifting Motor – All Models – 1995 onwards £238.79 inc VAT and that's each!
MAZDA BONGO 1995-2005 CAMPER VAN ROOF GAS STRUT £29.99 inc. vat each

Replacing the struts is fairly easy to do see https://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum ... =3&t=68281
another consideration is that if only one side fails/jams its very easy for the roof itself to be damaged needing further repairs to the GRP roof itself which can also be an expensive job.

Awesome!

So to clarify, buy 2x Gas Strut's and replace them before the motor goes is what you're saying?

Then, the link you've provided - this is very much a DIY?

[JF117]

The roof beeping is showing that the motors are taking more of the strain of lifting the roof than the gas struts, the motors are EXPENSIVE to replace, whilst the gas struts are a tenth of the price, also if the motors fail you will have a major problem in raising the roof to replace them (they are under the roof at the rear sides!) so it pays to replace the gas struts ASAP rather than wait and find the motors have failed

Mazda Bongo Genuine Roof Lifting Motor – All Models – 1995 onwards £238.79 inc VAT and that's each!
MAZDA BONGO 1995-2005 CAMPER VAN ROOF GAS STRUT £29.99 inc. vat each

Replacing the struts is fairly easy to do see https://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum ... =3&t=68281
another consideration is that if only one side fails/jams its very easy for the roof itself to be damaged needing further repairs to the GRP roof itself which can also be an expensive job.

Awesome!

So to clarify, buy 2x Gas Strut's and replace them before the motor goes is what you're saying?

Then, the link you've provided - this is very much a DIY?

Sorry, is there a major difference between the 'MAZDA BONGO 2ND EDITION CAMPER VAN ROOF GAS STRUT' and the 'MAZDA BONGO 2ND EDITION CAMPER VAN ROOF GAS STRUT' ?

Also, how would I know whether its the inner or outter strut's, or would I be better just replacing them all as one?

[g8dhe]

Yes you need the right struts, as the Aero version the roof goes higher than non-Aero ones Aero appeared around 2000 I think, but check the number on the struts themselves and the length the 2nd edition as they call them "Please check that your strut measures 999mm from centre of end fixing to centre of end fixing before you purchase this gas strut."
the earlier addition have the number "Replaces part number(s) S10K56940B." on them!

The roof gas struts are the main AFT ones, the much smaller inner roof ones simply help raise and keep up the inner roof when you want the extra internal height downstairs - as it were!

As to DIY yes see the link I gave earlier it shows how to compress the struts using several methods, do read ALL the pages not just the first description of doing them.

[JF117]

Yes you need the right struts, as the Aero version the roof goes higher than non-Aero ones Aero appeared around 2000 I think, but check the number on the struts themselves and the length the 2nd edition as they call them "Please check that your strut measures 999mm from centre of end fixing to centre of end fixing before you purchase this gas strut."
the earlier addition have the number "Replaces part number(s) S10K56940B." on them!

The roof gas struts are the main AFT ones, the much smaller inner roof ones simply help raise and keep up the inner roof when you want the extra internal height downstairs - as it were!

As to DIY yes see the link I gave earlier it shows how to compress the struts using several methods, do read ALL the pages not just the first description of doing them.

Cool, thanks for the heads up.

I checked the serial on them and they do appear to be the genuine struts (and thus from 1999), as the guy from SGS couldn't find the replacement part.

The part serial was S52H 56 940. Ring any bells?

Also, whilst you're here, any advice on an English replacement vehicle handbook-manual?

[Bob]

Pretty sure Ian can supply both from the Bongo Shop.

[g8dhe]

Did you get the part serial number from the actual gas strut itself or are your quoting the part# from the mechanical diagrams ?

Earlier than 1997/8 its specified as S10K56940B,
From the diagrams its specified as S52 S56940 for the 1997/8 version,
From the diagrams its specified as S61 S56940 for the 2001 onwards.

[JF117]

Did you get the part serial number from the actual gas strut itself or are your quoting the part# from the mechanical diagrams ?

From the diagrams its specified as S52 S56940 for the 1997/8 version,

I looked at the actual Gas Strut itself - it's this one here... well..

It's S52H 56 940 - almost the same.. and the Bongo is a 1999.

[g8dhe]

Think you will need to discuss that with SGS then, the difference might refer to the attachments for fixing or may just be a minor variation.

[JF117]

Think you will need to discuss that with SGS then, the difference might refer to the attachments for fixing or may just be a minor variation.

I did indeed discuss with SGS and think I've got sorted to the best of anyone's knowledge. For anyone else's reference, should this thread turn up on Google somewhere (lol..), the measurements were coming through as:

1. Rod Diameter = 1cm / 10mm
2. Cylinder Diameter = 2cm / 20mm
3. Stroke = 33cm / 330mm
4. Cylinder = 57cm / 570mm

5. Complete end to end – 96cm / 960mm
a. From the ball end to the middle of the ball was 0.5cm therefore the below must be..
6. Centre to Centre – 95cm / 950mm
7. Ball Diameter - approx 13-15mm

They had a replacement part, the only caveat was that the Stroke was longer, and therefore the strut would be constantly compressed (which I don't think is a bad thing?), but then the original part could be that way when I take it off. We shall see!

Thanks again everyone for pointing me in the right direction!

[g8dhe]

Yes as I recall the strut always has some compression in it as it still needs to take some of the weight even when fully extended!
If your fitting the struts yourself using a ratchet strap make sure that the weave of the material is adequate to prevent the weave spreading apart see here https://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum ... 29#p685929