Coolant alarm problem
Coolant alarm problem
Had some issues with my coolant alarm that have got progressively worse over the last several months. The alarm goes off 95% of the time and is driving me crazy.
Over the last year it used to continue for several minutes after starting, so I cleaned the screw and this fixed the issue.. for a few weeks.
I've got red coolant - so am aware this can cause false alarms. I also noticed my header tank was looking a bit gunged up. Bongo Spares had a look and flushed the header tank out. I also got some new screws sent from the maker of the alarm (Hayden). All was well for a few days and then the dreaded screeching came back. The coolant in the tank has never dropped in this time - I regularly do the lolly stick test.
I'm not sure if I should have the entire coolant system flushed and replaced - or could it be the contact points are dirty or need crimping?
Could it be a battery thing?
About six months ago - and with a fairly new battery - the cable between alternator and battery snapped on a trip and I drove on the battery till all power went. This was fixed by the RAC who warned the battery life was probably halved.
A few weeks ago I left the lights on all day (doh!) and after another RAC jump start they said it was condemned and I should get it on a trickle charge asap. I've not had a chance to do that - and since then the alarm has got worse. I also notice it sometimes goes off after I park up and switch lights, heating and stereo off.... but not always. Another weird thing is how it nearly always stops at the exact same points in my commute to work.
So - new coolant? new battery? clean points? remove the entire thing and get an engine temp alarm instead? Or just keep playing very loud metal music?
Over the last year it used to continue for several minutes after starting, so I cleaned the screw and this fixed the issue.. for a few weeks.
I've got red coolant - so am aware this can cause false alarms. I also noticed my header tank was looking a bit gunged up. Bongo Spares had a look and flushed the header tank out. I also got some new screws sent from the maker of the alarm (Hayden). All was well for a few days and then the dreaded screeching came back. The coolant in the tank has never dropped in this time - I regularly do the lolly stick test.
I'm not sure if I should have the entire coolant system flushed and replaced - or could it be the contact points are dirty or need crimping?
Could it be a battery thing?
About six months ago - and with a fairly new battery - the cable between alternator and battery snapped on a trip and I drove on the battery till all power went. This was fixed by the RAC who warned the battery life was probably halved.
A few weeks ago I left the lights on all day (doh!) and after another RAC jump start they said it was condemned and I should get it on a trickle charge asap. I've not had a chance to do that - and since then the alarm has got worse. I also notice it sometimes goes off after I park up and switch lights, heating and stereo off.... but not always. Another weird thing is how it nearly always stops at the exact same points in my commute to work.
So - new coolant? new battery? clean points? remove the entire thing and get an engine temp alarm instead? Or just keep playing very loud metal music?
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- mikeonb4c
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Re: Coolant alarm problem
I've got a vague recollection that LCAs don't like low voltages. If so, and if it needs doing anyway, i'd start with a new battery and see if things improve. Hopefully Haydn or our sparky Geoff will read this thread and comment. Hope you get it sorted, and keep us posted.
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Re: Coolant alarm problem
Yup agree, start with a new battery, all the battery problems start to show up this time of year as the temperature drops and the battery capacities fall with the temperature.
Re: Coolant alarm problem
Tested the battery cold yesterday morning and it read 12.1
Is that a bit rubbish?
Is that a bit rubbish?
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Re: Coolant alarm problem
Its not good, a battery resting should show 12.6 volts, but a single reading doesn't give a lot of information as without the temperature and state of charge it can vary a lot. You really need to get the battery tested either with a modern tester or one of the older "drop" testers, as its the voltage drop when a load is applied that gives more information. If the battery hasn't been changed in a few years then its probably worth getting it replaced a Bosch S4 335 is a good all rounder for any type of engine in a Bongo.
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Re: Coolant alarm problem
Apart from warning you of low coolant the alarms which are sensitive to voltage will start to play up if things electric are not as they should be...so, get yourself a new battery and then fit a new sensor screw and see what happens. Please let us know how you get on.
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Re: Coolant alarm problem
Hi plonkatronix. I read that pure antifreeze wasn’t as good at heat exchange as the mixed with water. I might be wrong but worth checking out what with 2.5’s being a bit fussy.
2002 Friendee 2.0 ltr Petrol.
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Re: Coolant alarm problem
Why use neat antifreeze ??
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Re: Coolant alarm problem
I wonder if he means pure as in 50/50? Then added water only when topping up, thus weakening the antifreeze?
Re: Coolant alarm problem
Re; the battery suggestion. There' a Kwik Fit near where I work, so I took the Bongo in for their free battery test, fully expecting the worst - but hoping a new battery would cure the problem.
They tested both starter and leisure battery - I don't think they were sure which was which!
The report says my starter battery is fine, but my leisure battery needs replacing. I thought this was a bit weird, so when I got home I put the LB on my trickle charger.. and it instantly showed as full! (it's on a split relay so I was surprised at their report).
Can't help thinking they've got them the wrong way round! Will need to visit a proper garage for a second opinion!
If a new battery doesn't fix it I'll need to look at disabling the alarm as it's very distracting.
They tested both starter and leisure battery - I don't think they were sure which was which!
The report says my starter battery is fine, but my leisure battery needs replacing. I thought this was a bit weird, so when I got home I put the LB on my trickle charger.. and it instantly showed as full! (it's on a split relay so I was surprised at their report).
Can't help thinking they've got them the wrong way round! Will need to visit a proper garage for a second opinion!
If a new battery doesn't fix it I'll need to look at disabling the alarm as it's very distracting.
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- haydn callow
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Re: Coolant alarm problem
Looking under the bonnet from the front. The battery on your left (drivers side) is the starter. The battery in front of the coolant tank is the leisure battery
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Re: Coolant alarm problem
The. Coolant alarm should be connected to the starter battery which sounds as though needs replacing
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Re: Coolant alarm problem
12.1 volts resting means the battery is goosed ! Fit a new battery and the alarm should behave. Strongly suggest you fix the cause rather than disconnect it.
Re: Coolant alarm problem
That's correct. Race bikes use straight water due to the better heat transfer. Still they don't have to worry about corrosion as they'll blow up long before it becomes an issue.TheLongRoad wrote: ↑Sun Nov 25, 2018 8:00 am Hi plonkatronix. I read that pure antifreeze wasn’t as good at heat exchange as the mixed with water. I might be wrong but worth checking out what with 2.5’s being a bit fussy.
Re: Coolant alarm problem
Just taken it to a local tyre/battery place and they did a drop test on the main battery and said it was fine. Holding a very strong charge apparantly.
Before that I unscrewed the alarm screw about half way and used an old toothbrush on it. I also noticed the contact ring/eyelet looked either rusty or had old coolant stain on it. (see link below) I tried to clean that, but it wasn't coming off.
It seems to have improved it slightly. It only took a few minutes to start screeching and then went off about five minutes later and back on and off for the next ten. Parked up while it was off.
So 50 % instead of 99%.
Don't know if it will make any difference, but might take the screw out and turn the contact ring around - might make a stronger connection?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/awiwjfyijwfa9 ... 9.JPG?dl=0
Before that I unscrewed the alarm screw about half way and used an old toothbrush on it. I also noticed the contact ring/eyelet looked either rusty or had old coolant stain on it. (see link below) I tried to clean that, but it wasn't coming off.
It seems to have improved it slightly. It only took a few minutes to start screeching and then went off about five minutes later and back on and off for the next ten. Parked up while it was off.
So 50 % instead of 99%.
Don't know if it will make any difference, but might take the screw out and turn the contact ring around - might make a stronger connection?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/awiwjfyijwfa9 ... 9.JPG?dl=0
Stupidity is the basic building block of the universe - F.Zappa