A few photos too:

It was great to meet Tim, Simon, Leo, Olly/Kate & Keith (have I missed anyone?) and the non-Bongo owner who turned up to see what it was all about. I look forward to meeting some of you again at Seaton on Friday, and hopefully we can all meet up again soon. Good photos by the way. Cheers, Simon ...

Can't help with the switch, but if you have a look up under the bumper, from the wheelarch, you should see the wires & plug somewhere under the headlights

There is a post lower down the list with a few ideas:

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... php?t=6223

Peter, try Maplins or any electronic supplier. You want contact cleaner or component cleaner.

I'm sure you just remove the bolt(s) that pass thru the sleeve & it comes off quite easily - didn't recall having to get anything "serious" out the tool box.

There are several suppliers of Japanese parts advertising on eBay. I can't track the specific one down at the moment, but they stock a range of differenty flourescent fittings for Mazda, Toyota, Mitsibishi etc. I'm sure a delve with Google with find what you are looking for.

We had to rip out the fantastic motorised 'lit-up-like-a-Christmas-tree' Pioneer stereo as we simply couldn't get a decent signal. Replaced with with a DAB MP3 Sony jobbie - the sound quality isn't as good, but at least we can use the radio. Maybe some frequency expanders are better than others, but...

It should have quite a big hole in the bottom & a new O-ring seal for the sensor. Should look a bit like this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fuel-filter-Mazda-Bongo-2-0-2-5-TD-Suzuki-Vitara-TD_W0QQitemZ4608471560QQihZ002QQcategoryZ52640QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem If not, sounds like the wrong ...

Interesting - my rear aircon can be on with the front off & I don't have the switch you refer to.

By the way, whilst looking for goodies at the scrap yard, I noticed some Mitsubishi models use the same block fuses as found in the under bonnet fuse box.

See my post for details: http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6117&highlight= I've also bought the proper ones from BongoBits for about ?6 each, but that will require the CV joint to be removed for fitting. The boot I fitted seems to be holding up ok, but has leaked some grease...

I suspect HJS was refering to the capacity, rather than the dimensions. The handbook refers to two part numbers: 80D26L(55) 95D31L(64) Mine has 115D31L. I think the first figure probably refers to Amp/hrs i.e 115 Amp/hr. My advice would be to find the biggest capacity he can that will physically fit...

I had my motor out the other week to try to improve its running. You can remove it without taking the housing off, but you'll never get it back in again. I'll have to nip out in the morning to refresh my memory if this is not clear, but there are a few 10mm nuts to remove, disconnect the in-line 12v...

There are a series of bulbs behind the instrument dials which should light up all the dials. They are standard bulbs found in the majority of cars & it would only take them 15 mins to remove the 4 screws that hold the surround & the 4 that hold the dials & replace the dodgy bulb. Sounds ...

I have 215's all round, so the choice for the spare is simple. I now have a nice steel wheel (courtesy of Goose in the Free stuff section), but just need to source a suitable tyre, preferably second hand.