Came up with the original idea of doing this last weekend after my 1 year old rolled onto the hatch in his sleep and my 4 year old needed a pee! Should've known the Bongo Fury Forum members would be all over it already... Just one question... Why do you need to move the strut mounting points (either...

Thanks for the replies. I don't think a Type 335 will physically fit on my starter battery tray! The existing battery is only 240mm long and the connector/fuse arrangement on the RHS would stop me getting anything much bigger in. Do you guys have extra large battery trays?

Hi all, A lot of people on here seem to recommend the Type 335 battery (typically the Bosch S4) as a replacement for the bongo starter battery. The 335 is 95Ah, 830A CCA. However, my understanding is that the stock bongo battery is 60Ah (or 64Ah winter pack). Why does the replacement need to be 50% ...

I can leave my Bongo on the drive for weeks on end without running it and it'll start first time. I took it for a long weekend camping to Cornwall last weekend and it started everyday without fail. On the way home after driving all the way from Padstow to Exeter services, I stop for 5 mins and the t...

Thanks all. A veritable treasure trove of useful info as always...

Just spoken to Adam at ADS in Bristol and he reckons 5W/30 is too thin, especially for summer months. Should be lookign at 10W/40 or 15W/40.

Hi, I put Freda in for an MOT/service a couple of weeks back. It's always had a slight oil leak from the rocker cover gasket but not so much that it ever reaches the ground - always had a nice clean driveway. Anyway, noticed some fresh 'oil' on the driveway so mentioned it when it went in. Turns out...

OK. Tested the slave locks by simulating a 12v pulse as outlined above and they all still lock. So, if I'm getting the 12v constant power in, the 12v control signal from the driver's door in, and all the other locks are functioning on a simulated 12v pulse out to the red/red yellow wires respectivel...

Would this 12v output pulse be too quick for a multimeter to pick up?

Just got round to checking again. It does appear that I'm gettin the interchangeable 12v signal into the relay unit behind the glove box. I'm also getting the constant 12v feed as well. However, I'm not getting anything on either output to the slaves from the relay unit. As such I can only conclude ...

Oh, OK then. Definitely didn't appear to be getting anywhere near 12V. There's a connector in the driver door panel as well which I tested. I'm assuming that the blue/red wire should be feeding a constant 12V to the door switch, and then I should be getting a pulsed 12V signal in either the yellow/r...

I'll have to check the control signals from the driver's door into the C/L unit again then. I definitely wasn't getting 12V because I had to turn the multimeter resolution down to 200mV or 2000mV, and was only then getting a steady 2.0 signal or 0.0 dependent on the pin and whether the driver's door...

Hi, The central locking has died on the van. Was intermittent for a while but now completely dead. My aftermarket remote locking still operates the drivers door and is a simple actuator attached to the factory plunger in the drivers door. I've not touched the factory C/L system. Checked both fuse 1 ...

Thanks folks. Not sure rad seal will work on plastic? I've got an engine block/low coolant alarm so will know if it gets bad. The leaking coolant looks clean and bright fluoro pink and the engine oil level looks fine with no signs of gunk/emulsion so fingers crossed it's not anything worse. I'll loo...

Hi, The crimped seam between the plastic top radiator manifold and metallic radiator body has developed a leak. It looks local to the front left as you look at it. Any idea as to whether I can reseal it or tighten up the crimps by tapping them with a flat head screwdriver and hammer? I'm on holiday ...