Perhaps not relevant in your case but... My Bongo is a '96 2.5 diesel and I had this exact problem, hold light flashing and gearbox not changing higher than 3rd. I cleaned the crank sensor which was covered in road gunge and this cleared the problem, I don't know if your engine has the crank sensor ...

If its just stiff and notchy soak it with WD40 and leave overnight, then keep rotating the steering until it frees off, rinse and repeat.

Mine was exactly the same, gummed up with underseal. No need to spend £100, a £10 tin of WD40 will shift it.

Remove the crankshaft sensor (one bolt) low down on the front of the engine, don't lose the O ring, there will be a little bit of oil messing up the sensor, wipe it's face and the socket out with a tissue and replace. [/quote I had exactly the same problem, intermittent rev counter not working, hol...

I was told by a Bongo fan ages ago that the main cause of premature drop link failure was too high tyre pressure especially on the front.

I know that some have their tyres at high pressure for fuel economy but perhaps this has some bearing on it.

My rear arches were replaced 8 years ago at great expense and are again rotting around the edges. I've decided to buy a set of wheel arch trims from Van-X at £50 which come in primer and are bonded on. Worth a try for the price I think. These are the Sprinter arches I found after a search...... http...

On the subject of the bleed kit...... I bought one last year but haven't fitted it, I'm dubious about its effectiveness. When I bleed my system, I first fill the rad, replace the cap, the bleed hose to the head is inserted into a large funnel which is jammed into the part-closed passenger side windo...

I had a slight weeping around the swaged edge at the top of the rad in one corner when the engine was up to temperature, only a slight drop in the level in the header tank. I ran some solder around the lip and it's been fine since, I check the water level daily and it's not losing any. Saved me the ...

I had my van undersealed at Wheelquick in Wigan they did a really thorough job. Might be worth giving them a call, 01942 217800.

Roy748 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 27, 2021 12:31 pm No not at all, it's a snug fit, plus I fitted the wheels so they had a very slight drag on them to prevent them moving in transit.. You could just fit two at the back as in practice you lift the front part to drag it out.

Two at the back it is then, thanks for the tip.

Roy748 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 26, 2021 9:58 pm Hi
I fitted utility wheels via 10mm bolts to my draw rather than have it on a rail. Works perfectly.

I was thinking of doing this, does the drawer zoom around while driving/cornering or are they locking wheels?

Thanks.

Just seen this thread, I need a set of B/E shells, the bottom end knocks like a b*gger at 3k rpm, I want to change them before there's any permanent damage/scored crank journals.

Does anyone have a part no. source please?

Thanks.

Many thanks for the replies chaps, I think I'll leave it to the professionals, dig out my wallet and find an auto electrician.

Most of the mechanical stuff I can just about cope with but this is witchcraft to me.

Does anyone have any experience of rewiring the horn please? I changed the horn for a new one (works fine across the battery) but still silent when fitted, fuse #5 is good but still nothing. I had a look at the wiring under the bonnet but no joy there, dead. The wiring under the dash is a right mess...

For a bit of reference my diesel turns at 2300 rpm at a genuine 60mph.

Hi All After reading on here about EGR blanking and speaking to my dad that used to blank them off on race cars as it's loss of power etc and really not needed but obviously has to be done for emissions wise. I have opted to Blank it off to stop all the gunk getting into the inlet to hopefully prev...