increase tickover speed a bit?
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- dandywarhol
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Thanks scanner - I've looked at the manual and the idle control screw appears to be at the end of part number 24 -8002 and the idle speed should be between 700 - 780 rpm hot.
I'll have a look at mine tomorrow too..............
I'll ammend the previous post.
I'll have a look at mine tomorrow too..............
I'll ammend the previous post.
Whale oil beef hooked
Renault Lunar Telstar
Yamaha TD1C 250, Merc SLK200, KTM Duke 690
Renault Lunar Telstar
Yamaha TD1C 250, Merc SLK200, KTM Duke 690
throttle
I've made the adjustment by tightening up the throttle cable by a couple of turns. It's the one with the long rubber gaiter covering and a threaded adjuster with a rubber washer surround. It's done the job!
throttle
I'm off to work in a minute, so I'll see how much quicker I get there!
- mikeonb4c
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Re: throttle
Suspected as much as I was looking at mine yesterday while servicing. But couldn't remember for sure. Let us know how it works as it is a bit surprising that - as scanner suggests - it doesn't use an adjustable lever stop end (cables can get a little prone to binding and usually like a little end play, although the Bongo lever spring is quite strong so guess it's OK).brookie wrote:I've made the adjustment by tightening up the throttle cable by a couple of turns. It's the one with the long rubber gaiter covering and a threaded adjuster with a rubber washer surround. It's done the job!
Be very careful adjusting the actual cable.
You could over adjust and then put unecessary stretch on the cable on full revs, when the lever reaches maximum fuel position on the pump.
It is best to adjust tickover on the lever stop where the lever rests on idle.
I have not looked on my Bongo yet, but below is a simple diagram of how some idle adjustment screws work. I am not siue if it is the same on the Bongo yet?
I hope this makes sence?
The maximum travel screw is usually sealed with a lead seal, as this is a factory setting.
The idle adjuster is not sealed. Take a spanner and undoe the lock nut, (anti clockwise) then turn the screw slightly clockwise, which will increase the idle speed.
If you imagine adjusting the cable only. This will move the lever away from the stop (idle screw), then if you fully depress the accelerator pedal, the lever will reach the maximum travel screw and cause unecessary stretch as mentioned above. Eventually, the idle will go back to how it was originally, as the cable will stretch, allowing the lever to set back to the stop (idle screw)
You could over adjust and then put unecessary stretch on the cable on full revs, when the lever reaches maximum fuel position on the pump.
It is best to adjust tickover on the lever stop where the lever rests on idle.
I have not looked on my Bongo yet, but below is a simple diagram of how some idle adjustment screws work. I am not siue if it is the same on the Bongo yet?
I hope this makes sence?
The maximum travel screw is usually sealed with a lead seal, as this is a factory setting.
The idle adjuster is not sealed. Take a spanner and undoe the lock nut, (anti clockwise) then turn the screw slightly clockwise, which will increase the idle speed.
If you imagine adjusting the cable only. This will move the lever away from the stop (idle screw), then if you fully depress the accelerator pedal, the lever will reach the maximum travel screw and cause unecessary stretch as mentioned above. Eventually, the idle will go back to how it was originally, as the cable will stretch, allowing the lever to set back to the stop (idle screw)
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- Supreme Being
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- Supreme Being
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The following is from the Russian Mazda Friendee Club I think
I got it off here but not certain hope they don't mind me re posting it.
For picture 2. Old pump:
Idle speed (in a warm car) should be 700-780 rpm, the nut is regulated at "XX".
Aperture "A" manages rpm until 800 + -25 under load (aircon, steering, headlights ...)
Aperture "B" manages rpm before 1350 + -150 when warming up. They managed vacuum 53KPa. It's easy to see. Turn the ignition on cold car and rod should be go in the diaphragm.
If there is no vacuum, the diaphragm does not work. And this is just another story.
Screw "A" regulates warming up rpm , screw "B" regulates rpm under load.
_________________
Russian Mazda Friendee Club
I got it off here but not certain hope they don't mind me re posting it.
For picture 2. Old pump:
Idle speed (in a warm car) should be 700-780 rpm, the nut is regulated at "XX".
Aperture "A" manages rpm until 800 + -25 under load (aircon, steering, headlights ...)
Aperture "B" manages rpm before 1350 + -150 when warming up. They managed vacuum 53KPa. It's easy to see. Turn the ignition on cold car and rod should be go in the diaphragm.
If there is no vacuum, the diaphragm does not work. And this is just another story.
Screw "A" regulates warming up rpm , screw "B" regulates rpm under load.
_________________
Russian Mazda Friendee Club
throttle
Thanks guys, I've since done a bit of each, the throttle cable was a bit too loose anyway, so I've taken up the slack a little, then as shown in your diagram Ralph, I unplugged the wire from the microswitch and adjusted the screw (shown as XX in the pic) so it touches the plate than governs the throttle spring to the pump, it has worked a treat, no over-tightened cable and the microswitch/screw in the relative same place! It now ticks over at 750-780 rpm hot. No vibration like before at 650.