Rear Heater Supply Pipe
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- Northern Bongolow
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 7713
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:33 pm
- Location: AKA Vanessa
Re: Rear Heater Supply Pipe
We can't beat those prices. They charge £1.10 including VAT, plus £3.50 postage up to orders of £40.
668. The Neighbour of The Beast.
- haydn callow
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 5772
- Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 9:50 pm
- Location: Somerset
- Contact:
Re: Rear Heater Supply Pipe
https://www.hcl-clamping.co.uk/33-worm- ... ion-s-band
These should be good
These should be good
Re: Rear Heater Supply Pipe
Phew!haydn callow wrote:https://www.hcl-clamping.co.uk/33-worm- ... ion-s-band
These should be good
Chris with BertieB
'96 White unconverted AFT 2.5L Diesel 4WD
'96 White unconverted AFT 2.5L Diesel 4WD
Re: Rear Heater Supply Pipe
Good news.....all my parts are here. I'll get one of the clamps sent up to you Haydn early next week. Just contemplating whether to two part radflush the system once I've replaced everything.
Re: Rear Heater Supply Pipe
Had a spare hour today so decided to look at getting the old pipe out. Currently thwarted by a stubborn bolt on the front of the long air duct (13-201A). Hoping liberal doing of penetrating fluid will help me crack it off in the morning. I'm convinced non of those bolts have been released in it's 21 year life so to only have a single stubborn one is good but also mildy annoying!!
Re: Rear Heater Supply Pipe
Me again! I'm having real difficulty moving one of the three bolts holding the air ducting. The rear one I removed the bracket, the middle one I must have lucked out and the front one is stuck.
Re-examining the back one that is attached to the bracket I'm convinced it's the rubber mount that is flexing and I'm concerned about damaging that.
Anyone got any ideas about freeing the nut? If it comes to it I'll guess I will have to try and split it.
Thanks in advance
Leigh
Re-examining the back one that is attached to the bracket I'm convinced it's the rubber mount that is flexing and I'm concerned about damaging that.
Anyone got any ideas about freeing the nut? If it comes to it I'll guess I will have to try and split it.
Thanks in advance
Leigh
- Northern Bongolow
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 7713
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:33 pm
- Location: AKA Vanessa
Re: Rear Heater Supply Pipe
are they these in this drawing that your struggling with, if you click on the part number on the drawing then look to the left margin, it will give you a part number to chase at your local mazda dealer or second hand. use the drawing to send to second hand parts dealers.
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html
Re: Rear Heater Supply Pipe
Yes - they're the rubber mounting on there (13-363). I've discovered how they work now and have managed to free the front one from the chassis rail. I think I sometimes just need a little more patience and I'll work things out!
Great advice about using the drawings to send to second hand dealers. I have also discovered with the assistance of google that they are also called hexagon bobbin mounts! Every day is a learning day!
So the pipe is out but I could do with jacking up the vehicle to free the ducting to clean up the mounting points and make threading the new pipe through a little easier. Couldn't have got this far without this forum so thanks to all.
Leigh
Great advice about using the drawings to send to second hand dealers. I have also discovered with the assistance of google that they are also called hexagon bobbin mounts! Every day is a learning day!
So the pipe is out but I could do with jacking up the vehicle to free the ducting to clean up the mounting points and make threading the new pipe through a little easier. Couldn't have got this far without this forum so thanks to all.
Leigh
Re: Rear Heater Supply Pipe
Right...I have an update. Pipe has been installed and everything is back bolted where it should be minus coolant. I ordered a replacement stat and waterpump and tried to undo the stat housing bolts but they as with everything else I have tried are stuck fast. I see my options are:
1) increase the leverage with a breaker bar attached to my 12" socket/universal joing/extension bar: or
2) remove the whole housing from the block undo and remember to get a replacement gasket
Can anyone offer any advice?
Thanks, Leigh
p.s. forgot to send that clamp to Haydn....it's on its way on Monday!
1) increase the leverage with a breaker bar attached to my 12" socket/universal joing/extension bar: or
2) remove the whole housing from the block undo and remember to get a replacement gasket
Can anyone offer any advice?
Thanks, Leigh
p.s. forgot to send that clamp to Haydn....it's on its way on Monday!
- Northern Bongolow
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 7713
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:33 pm
- Location: AKA Vanessa
Re: Rear Heater Supply Pipe
most peeps tighten them up too tight, best to remove it and do it on the bench as the threads can strip out, some have fitted nuts and bolts after ruining the threads when putting it back together.
top tip time.
loosen the bolts on the water pump pulley BEFORE you take the tension off the belts, these hold the pulley while you crack em loose.
top tip time.
loosen the bolts on the water pump pulley BEFORE you take the tension off the belts, these hold the pulley while you crack em loose.
Re: Rear Heater Supply Pipe
If you do end up removing stat housing. Gasket from Ford garage is pence:
THERMOSTAT HOUSING GASKET.. Ford part F3599718
THERMOSTAT HOUSING GASKET.. Ford part F3599718
Chris with BertieB
'96 White unconverted AFT 2.5L Diesel 4WD
'96 White unconverted AFT 2.5L Diesel 4WD
Re: Rear Heater Supply Pipe
Yes - I'd struck upon your previous post. Was going to hopefully source one this week while perioding dousing of the nuts in penetrating oil in situ in the hope it budges!
Don't get much time on the evenings so spend it researching and thinking through the next stages. Annoyingly it looks as if one of my water pump pulley bolts has sheared its head at some point in the past (no idea how and haven't got in with a mirror or the like yet) so that poses my next hurdle. Tempted to just fill and bleed but I know I'll regret that long term!
Don't get much time on the evenings so spend it researching and thinking through the next stages. Annoyingly it looks as if one of my water pump pulley bolts has sheared its head at some point in the past (no idea how and haven't got in with a mirror or the like yet) so that poses my next hurdle. Tempted to just fill and bleed but I know I'll regret that long term!
Re: Rear Heater Supply Pipe
Yup! Aren't you replacing the pump anyway?sloppy7 wrote:Yes - I'd struck upon your previous post. Was going to hopefully source one this week while perioding dousing of the nuts in penetrating oil in situ in the hope it budges!
Don't get much time on the evenings so spend it researching and thinking through the next stages. Annoyingly it looks as if one of my water pump pulley bolts has sheared its head at some point in the past (no idea how and haven't got in with a mirror or the like yet) so that poses my next hurdle. Tempted to just fill and bleed but I know I'll regret that long term!
I know this can all be done from above but personally I find it a whole load easier popping the front of the bongo up on ramps and getting straight on to the belts and pulleys from underneath. You can get away with just removing the front half of the undertray. (I've added chimney nuts to the join in the undertray to make this easier.)
Caveat: I'm not sure how it affects the refill and bleed process to have the front end raised. I've had one poor refill/bleed and it was with the front uphill, but no idea if it was coincidence.
Chris with BertieB
'96 White unconverted AFT 2.5L Diesel 4WD
'96 White unconverted AFT 2.5L Diesel 4WD
Re: Rear Heater Supply Pipe
No undertrays fitted to my Bongo - yeah I was always going to replace the pump till I've seen the sheared bolt although thinking about it it could just be a stud and nut (will check what previous owner did).cmm303 wrote:Yup! Aren't you replacing the pump anyway?sloppy7 wrote:Yes - I'd struck upon your previous post. Was going to hopefully source one this week while perioding dousing of the nuts in penetrating oil in situ in the hope it budges!
Don't get much time on the evenings so spend it researching and thinking through the next stages. Annoyingly it looks as if one of my water pump pulley bolts has sheared its head at some point in the past (no idea how and haven't got in with a mirror or the like yet) so that poses my next hurdle. Tempted to just fill and bleed but I know I'll regret that long term!
I know this can all be done from above but personally I find it a whole load easier popping the front of the bongo up on ramps and getting straight on to the belts and pulleys from underneath. You can get away with just removing the front half of the undertray. (I've added chimney nuts to the join in the undertray to make this easier.)
Caveat: I'm not sure how it affects the refill and bleed process to have the front end raised. I've had one poor refill/bleed and it was with the front uphill, but no idea if it was coincidence.
Unfortunately my jack doesn't get the Bongo up high enough to slide my ramps under and I daren't start the bloody thing so I guess I'll be doing it from the passenger side!!