V6 98 - Second hand or aftermarket Radiator

[cmm303]

So i've fitted the new radiator, thermostat and alarm

I've been trying to flush the system to get the old green fluid out so i can put the red coolant in

So (i'm doing this on my own) i've been following the simple process from Bongo Buddy

Fill radiator
Fill Header tank
Start car
When warm open bleed tube to let out foamy coolant
listen for alarm to top up header tank when neccessary

the problem i'm having is the the bottom hose isn't getting warm, so just wondering is this something to do with my method or hopefully not an incorrectly installed thermostat (which seemed difficult to install incorrectly)

I haven't bled a V6 but if it were a diesel there is a step missing between filling header tank and starting engine - see-saw to get as much air out before starting the engine, then see-saw whilst it warms up. I'm sure somebody familiar bleeding the V6 will say if this is also necessary for the V6.

I would recommend having an assistant, especially for your first time. Bleeding relies on synchronised revving and see-sawing. If you are using a funnel attached to the bleed tube , topping up the header tank is also much easier done by somebody else unless you have a very smart way of parking the bleed funnel. Using a jug and valve instead of a funnel makes this part easier singlehanded.

I tried flushing much the same way as you. I drained it using the bottom hose then refilled with water and ran through the bleeding process to bring the engine upto temp with the stat opening. Then I filled the header tank with HOT water, dropped the level by letting coolant run from the bleed tube, repeat, repeat. I did this for ages and ages with the engine running and never achieved completely colourless coolant. So I gave up and refilled with the same type of antifreeze! So if flushing the V6 is anything like the diesel I would suggest that you have to drop the rear heater hoses as well as the bottom rad hose (Northern Bongalow had recommended this but I had reasons for not doing so at the time, but never again will I ignore NB!!). On the diesel I reckon this still leaves up to 3l of coolant behind but you now have a way of flushing for/aft through various routes without running the engine.

[rita]

Takes over half an hour on mine to get the stat to open and the bottom hose hot
When it gets upto the 80c mark I have to give it a few boy racer revs and hold it at 2000rpm for a few 30 seconds blasts to get it to open

A wee tip if you are using antifreeze and Water.

Use hot water to fill the system, not cold, the engine will reach operating temperature faster/quicker/sooner.

Good Luck.

[ade33]

I successfully bled our V6 after the rad blew its top. Rad was replaced with the aftermarket item from AVA Leisure at just over £100 delivered. Excellent quality I thought, and very quick delivery.

I watched the famous bleeding videos (all 3 of them) over and over to get the method in my head then, having filled the system, spent ages on the cold see-sawing bit - most of the air came out during this process, we didn't get a whole lot more out once the engine was up to temp.

The videos were a huge help (thank you!) and I would not have attempted bleeding without them.

Once the engine was running it took a good while (about 40 mins iirc) before the stat opened and the bottom hose warmed up. See-sawing was still going on at this point with bits and pieces of air coming out.

We had three of us on the job (one on the funnel, one on the 'gas' pedal and one under the bonnet keeping an eye on the header tank level) and since none of us had bled a Bongo before I guess it took about 3 hours all in. It was well worth the time to do it carefully and get it right.

My top tip would be to get the right funnel to go on the bleed hose, and make sure you have a really good secure fit. I reckon I bought 3 or 4 funnels before I found one the right size (big!) that would a) fit properly and b) stay there without leaking as the temps rose.

The van now has a LCA.

[cmm303]

Elf n safe tea me. I'm in the jug camp! Might be refining it to a smaller jug and shorter tubing now that I've run out of space to store it under the passy seat.

[Gasy]

Takes over half an hour on mine to get the stat to open and the bottom hose hot
When it gets upto the 80c mark I have to give it a few boy racer revs and hold it at 2000rpm for a few 30 seconds blasts to get it to open

A wee tip if you are using antifreeze and Water.

Use hot water to fill the system, not cold, the engine will reach operating temperature faster/quicker/sooner.

Good Luck.

I've done it with hot water
Didn't make much difference
Especially with a cold engine

[joca]

I need to change my radiator. how easy is it to do.

[Propnut]

Very easy, this video covers most of it:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRx1FxiFH-I
bleeding the system after is the bit that takes the time. videos on you tube and good advice on here cover that part.

[cmm303]

Very easy, this video covers most of it:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRx1FxiFH-I
bleeding the system after is the bit that takes the time. videos on you tube and good advice on here cover that part.

All the bolts along the bottom on mine were rusted and seized and I had to sheer them off.
Partly for this reason, and I also think it is easier, I'd recommend taking the ATF hoses off where they connect with the pair of metal pipes running rearwards and sort the removal of the ATF hoses from the radiator after removal from the vehicle.
The new radiator came with captive nuts in place.
I eventually found a good match for the bolts in s/s at Screwfix. I can look up refs if needed.
I followed the written guide available in Fury which takes the fans off with the rad in the vehicle and suggests tying them back - different from the video where the fans are removed from the vehicle still attached to the rad. I'd give the video approach a go another time!

[Propnut]

I took the rad out with the fans attached, it's a little heavier but enables wide open access to the inevitably rusted bolts holding the fans to the rad. I bolted the fans to the new rad before installation too.
I must have been lucky with mine, the atf pipes loosened from the rad without issue, although the pipe clip bolts were seized and sheared off.
My van is a diesel so I had to remove the inter cooler duct to gain access. , Expect the bolts securing it to be seized so patience and plus gas are key.
Removing the air intake pipe located on the offside of the bonnet opening saves snagging on the way out.
As I was draining the system I took the opportunity to replace hoses, thermostat and water pump at the same time.

[Northern Bongolow]

I successfully bled our V6 after the rad blew its top. Rad was replaced with the aftermarket item from AVA Leisure at just over £100 delivered. Excellent quality I thought, and very quick delivery.

I watched the famous bleeding videos (all 3 of them) over and over to get the method in my head then, having filled the system, spent ages on the cold see-sawing bit - most of the air came out during this process, we didn't get a whole lot more out once the engine was up to temp.

The videos were a huge help (thank you!) and I would not have attempted bleeding without them.

Once the engine was running it took a good while (about 40 mins iirc) before the stat opened and the bottom hose warmed up. See-sawing was still going on at this point with bits and pieces of air coming out.

We had three of us on the job (one on the funnel, one on the 'gas' pedal and one under the bonnet keeping an eye on the header tank level) and since none of us had bled a Bongo before I guess it took about 3 hours all in. It was well worth the time to do it carefully and get it right.

My top tip would be to get the right funnel to go on the bleed hose, and make sure you have a really good secure fit. I reckon I bought 3 or 4 funnels before I found one the right size (big!) that would a) fit properly and b) stay there without leaking as the temps rose.

The van now has a LCA.

thanks for this reply, this is exactly why we made the videos, this method was developed from the knowledge of 3 very good people who had years of bongo experience between them. ian approached us to make some sort of how to vid as there was nothing out there, particularly for road side break down situations.
the points you raise are also very important, watch the vids several times before you dive in, and the funnel size is very important. my wife who filmed the vids has a counter on the number of views on the vids and the numbers are in the 10's of thousands so it must have helped someone. it has been adapted by others to use of the jug and valve method which some favour. glad it worked for you.
look up some of the other highly educational films that ian has in his library.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRcbbH_zTF8.

and the famous awning inspector.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w11Ki5D16AQ

[ade33]

thanks for this reply, this is exactly why we made the videos, this method was developed from the knowledge of 3 very good people who had years of bongo experience between them.

The vids should be on any Bongo owners 'must see' list, blown rad or not!

It's clear from watching that you know your stuff, so thanks again for taking the time to share your expertise.

Are all the 'stars' still active members on here?

[Northern Bongolow]

they are life time members so as we know, you can enter but cannot ever leave.

a few of the members down load the vids to a tablet or mem stick and keep it in the bongo for the just in case moment, you never know when the need my arise.
the fact sheets in the members area written by people who have been there before are also a great reference for when the gremlins strike, some download or print these off.

[Bob]

Just like 'Hotel California'.

You can check out any time you like...