Meyle HD DropLinks

[cookan]

Hi guys,
separate to my other thread about the embarrassing squeak I thought I might as well order some new droplinks in advance of taking my suspected squeaky ones off...having just received them I notice they have a single Nut each end and I'm pretty sure the existing ones fitted have a backnut in addition (another thread on this subject shows a spanner on the backnut is needed whilst simultaneously undoing the main nut with a socket)...any one know if I need to source and fit a backnut on the Meyle ones ? Just wanted to check as this is my day car..so once the old drop link is off...going to be a pain if I find I need another nut to sit the other side..the Meyle ones have an allen socket in the end of the thread I guess to hold it steady whilst torquing the main nut (but then again...fairly sure the ones I have fitted at the moment also have an allen..as well as the backnut)

thanks,
Ant.

[Driver+Passengers]

I haven't fitted the Meyle ones but can't see you needing three hands to fit! Presumably they can't be fitted without *some* way to stop the ball spinning in its socket, so whether it's a backnut or an allen is only going to affect whether you can put a socket or have to use a spanner on the nut itself.

Presumably the back nut is just two, four or six flat spots machined onto the shaft between the thread and ball, rather than something that's threaded onto it. I fitted with some borrowed spanners and when I went back over to make sure they were all nipped up, I couldn't actually get my own spanner on the back without displacing the rubber a bit, which was then a pig to get located again. You may need slim spanners on the back, so an allen key into the end of the bolt shaft (presumably) might be more reliable.

No doubt someone has actually done it and can tell you, one way or the other...

[mikeonb4c]

The fun is getting the old ones off, I have found

[cookan]

yeah...I had a quick look the other day and decided it was going to be more than 30 minutes given I'd need to jack the car up to get enough throw on the wrench to get that bottom nut off...

I'll have a more committed look at it tomorrow now that I have some new drop links...I'll marry up the new ones first to see if there's any difference in sizing before I expend serious time on it tho !

thanks,
Ant.

[cookan]

err.....does anyone know whether the nuts on these droplinks are supposed to look slightly oval ? I mean, I can do them up hand tight almost to the head of the thread, but I'm worried if I try tightening them I'll strip the whole thread....they're not nyloc..

thanks,
Ant.

[cookan]

so now I'm stuck ! The suppliers checked his stock and agree's the nuts don't appear to tighten beyond the end of the thread which leaves a load of slack on the bongo..I've tried mechanically tightening the nuts up held in place with an allen key to see if they cut through but couldn't them further on either. So either there's a long faulty batch of these shipping out, or the nuts aren't supposed to tighten any further (Meyle did say they don't have any listed for the bongo so these must be 'compatible' from another vehicle). The suppliers happy to refund but he's also sure someone out there is ordering batches of these so there must be a way to fit them...I assume it's just a different nut but would be good to hear if anyone has the secret !

old ones back on...so that's a wasted morning then ;-(

thanks,
Ant.

[Driver+Passengers]

Can you take a photo of an end of the Meyle drop links?

[cookan]

Hi,
not sure if you can make it out, but the two end shots are taken with the nut rotated a little to help show the ovalness (?) The nuts are on as far as they'll go by hand, and wouldn't go much further with a spanner.
I'm off to measure the threads in a minute..I'd rather source a few flanged nuts than send the links back as they seem to fit well..no obvious difference in dimensions..just the nuts that are the problem !


https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B1-Cw4u ... sp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B1-Cw4u ... sp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B1-Cw4u ... sp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B1-Cw4u ... sp=sharing

thanks,
Ant.

[mikeWalsall]

That is a self locking nut .. used on loadsa things from motor bikes to Aston Martins ..

[Coradia63]

Hi,

As Mike said they are locking nuts that's why they are oval you should be able to put an allen key in the end of the thread part of the droplink to stop the it spinning round when you tighten the nut

Cheers
Stuart

[mikeWalsall]

I 'think' they are the Philidas type of all metal self locking nuts ..

[cookan]

thanks guys..I did suspect it was some form of locking nut (especially given both my sets and all the suppliers sets appeared to look the same), but it clearly locks to early to work out of the box on the bongo. I've PM'd '321Away' who said he'd fitted these in another thread to see what he says..in the meantime I've picked up some nyloc nuts that are round and will go all the way down the thread. Hope to try again on Tuesday..

thanks,
Ant.

[cookan]

finally...job done..even if it was snowing and I having to wear two pairs for trousers and 5 layers on top !

I used two flanged nyloc nuts in place of the lock nuts that came with the Meyle Droplinks. I would have probably have been able to torque up an original lock nut on the connecting point to the ARB as it's thicker, however the mount on the shockabsorber is quite thin steel and I would have had to tighten the locknut further down the thread than I had managed to do on the bench so given the impossible access (the bracket on the shocks obstructs you from rotating a spanner, and you can't use a socket as you need to hold the allen key in) the nyloc was much easier.

If I had an air impact wrench I rekon the nuts would have zipped up without needing an allen key in the first place but I don't have one unfortunately !

anyone else planning to fit these with minimal tools, I'd suggest you get a decent strength allen key set with a long handle as you'll likely need to tighten the thread, as opposed to the nut, until it's tight enough to use a socket for the final torquing. I sheared off a socket adapter trying to get it tight enough and I my allen key was close to its limit before either bending or rounding the hole..I doubt I have got them tight enough to be honest so will be asking the garage to nip them up when its in for its MOT this week.

Front Discs and Pads done at the same time and no more squealing, squeaking or knocking from the front ! Off to the back to do the rear droplinks and ARB bushes and brackets...when I've thawed out.

thanks,
Ant.