Glowplugs ?

M 80NGO · Post by **M 80NGO** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 10:04 pm

Hi are some glowplugs better than others and how long should they last ? i ask this as i put new glowplugs in l'oreal at the end of summer 2010 and now it would seem that they need changing again as she's started the lumpy startup again.

Paid £40 for the last set, so where is the best place to get them is any particular make better than others and which ( if any ) should be avoided ?

Thanx, Pete.

Post by **francophile1947** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 10:11 pm

Here you go http://sparkplugsrus.com/shop/index.cgi ... J-Glowplug

These are what most members recommend.

M 80NGO · Post by **M 80NGO** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 10:14 pm

francophile1947 wrote:Here you go http://sparkplugsrus.com/shop/index.cgi ... J-Glowplug These are what most members recommend.

Thanks for the link, i put NGK's in her last time and would have expected to get 3 maybe 4 winters out of them not 1 and 1/2 winters.

Post by **francophile1947** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 10:16 pm

That's interesting - it's what others use because they last a lot longer

M 80NGO · Post by **M 80NGO** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 10:18 pm

francophile1947 wrote:That's interesting - it's what others use because they last a lot longer

Yep i would have thought i'd have got more out of them, i wonder whether i should always wait for the relay "click" before starting when she's cold or just wait till the light goes out on the dash + 2 second, maybe i've overcooked them and warn them out early.

Post by **Simon Jones** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 12:20 am

My previous Bongo had the same set in for at least 6 years with no issues. Unfortunately, I don't know what make they were, but had always assumed they were the original ones.

Northern Bongolow · Post by **Northern Bongolow** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 4:38 am

check the nuts are tightened up to the correct torque settings, loose nuts give the same symptoms as plug down.
(its usually number 4, the back one thats hardest to get at

)

M 80NGO · Post by **M 80NGO** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 11:12 pm

Northern Bongolow wrote:check the nuts are tightened up to the correct torque settings, loose nuts give the same symptoms as plug down.
(its usually number 4, the back one thats hardest to get at )

Yeah all the nuts are tight and yes it was number 4 that failed last time, i had them out a couple of weeks ago and tested them and the rail on my bench with a jump pack and altho they all heat up obviously one isn't heating enough, i got a new set of NGK's from a local motor factor today £34 and will fit em up at the weekend.

She starts fine and idles fine its only when the cold start kicks in and the revs try to rise that she starts missing and chuffin out unburnt fuel but if i raise the revs to 1300 on the throttle for a couple of seconds she's as good as gold, pretty much how she was before i changed the last set then as soon as i fired her up with the new ones in she ran like a dream.

Thanks for all the answers and comments guys

Northern Bongolow · Post by **Northern Bongolow** » Thu Jan 26, 2012 4:56 am

what revs have you got it set at normally when warm, and when the coldstart solenoid kicks in. maybe the cold start revs are set too high/low. it took me ages to set mine up right after the solenoids were replaced.
are both the solenoids working, it should be cold enough to get the 2 stage drop down now.
test the plugs, they should read just under 1 ohm at 20 deg c (room temp). they may still glow, but this is the only worthwhile test.

M 80NGO · Post by **M 80NGO** » Thu Jan 26, 2012 6:51 pm

Northern Bongolow wrote:what revs have you got it set at normally when warm, and when the coldstart solenoid kicks in. maybe the cold start revs are set too high/low. it took me ages to set mine up right after the solenoids were replaced.
are both the solenoids working, it should be cold enough to get the 2 stage drop down now.
test the plugs, they should read just under 1 ohm at 20 deg c (room temp). they may still glow, but this is the only worthwhile test.

She idles at around 750 rpm and goes up to 1150 on the cold start but only after i've held the throttle at 1300 for a couple of seconds to clear her throat so to speak then she'll drop back down to 750 when the cold start cuts off.

haydn callow · Post by **haydn callow** » Thu Jan 26, 2012 7:24 pm

M 80NGO wrote:
francophile1947 wrote:That's interesting - it's what others use because they last a lot longer

Yep i would have thought i'd have got more out of them, i wonder whether i should always wait for the relay "click" before starting when she's cold or just wait till the light goes out on the dash + 2 second, maybe i've overcooked them and warn them out early.

They actually keep switching on/off/on/off for about 5 mins in very cold weather....the "coil" light on the dash has nothing to do with the plugs being on or off...the light is not even on the same circuit.....In cold weather keep the key turned for a further 5 seconds after the "coil" light goes out....the plugs will still be glowing..

To make them last longer ...put a switch in the relay feed wire and when the engine is running smooth switch them off....(then they cannot keep cycling on/off/on/off)...there is a fact sheet on how to do this ....a 30 min job and a good cheap mod.

M 80NGO · Post by **M 80NGO** » Thu Jan 26, 2012 11:21 pm

Thanx for the info H/C, i've now changed the glowplugs and will see how she fairs in the morning before reporting back, it only took me an hour to change them

M 80NGO · Post by **M 80NGO** » Fri Jan 27, 2012 8:57 pm

Right it hasn't cured the problem so its back to the drawing board, i spoke to the technical dept a a very well regarded Bongo dealer who told me that the cold start mechanism needs activating by depressing the throttle prior to start up, so i tried this method at home time and it made no differance.

she fires up and runs fine until you can hear a solenoid "click" then she starts chuffin out unburnt fuel so i'm thinkin that there must be either a cold start solenoid / run on valve / relay thats not doing what it should do, as soon as it starts missing and i raise the revs she runs fine. where do i look next ?

Northern Bongolow · Post by **Northern Bongolow** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 5:47 am

Northern Bongolow wrote:what revs have you got it set at normally when warm, and when the coldstart solenoid kicks in. maybe the cold start revs are set too high/low. it took me ages to set mine up right after the solenoids were replaced.

this is what i was getting at earlier, is the plunger on the end of the throttle cable pushed in/working, when the cable is at rest and the engine warmed up.
there must be enough slack in the cable to allow the end to push the plunger in,

M 80NGO · Post by **M 80NGO** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 4:22 pm

Northern Bongolow wrote:
Northern Bongolow wrote:what revs have you got it set at normally when warm, and when the coldstart solenoid kicks in. maybe the cold start revs are set too high/low. it took me ages to set mine up right after the solenoids were replaced.
this is what i was getting at earlier, is the plunger on the end of the throttle cable pushed in/working, when the cable is at rest and the engine warmed up.
there must be enough slack in the cable to allow the end to push the plunger in,

do you have a lill pic of said plunger and what does said plunger do + why did the last set of glows cure the problem when i last changed them 18 months ago, after that change she fired up a treat and no chuffin chuffin

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