You can't just drop that in and not enlighted us... tell us more about your bleeding method!!!

Thats a good point - I've been meaning to ask around to see if anyone had a spare steel they want rid of in the south east recently... welll

Hmm yachts often have an "autohelm" - wonder if we could get one on a bongo... that with the CC would mean you could go and have a lie down.

Here's my experience with the Bongo brakes... Recently i found myself late one night coming back from a band practice on a dual carriage way out side Bath. ... With that, he slammed the brakes on going into an emergency stop with about 500 left to the RB we were near stationary & he fired off, ...

Ahh -so what are the changes to the circuit you're thinking of?

(Must check my alternator... been meaning to for a while and that original Jap battery is probably suspect too!)

Haydn, Will check tommorow now that I have my calibrated meter back from work and will let you know readings. Am interested to know why you want to get a reasonably accurate average tho. Cheers Mark We are Looking at a future new circuit design for the Bongo LCA. Just curious what the voltage windo...

I have the same unit that SJ fitted (Waeco 50) - on his recommendation - I got it from an ebay etailer in Germany. Very pleased with it - and love to use it. There was at the time a more expensive unit that had 3 memory buttons so you could for example preset them at 40 50 and 70 mph. In hindsight.....

Theres posts on here from Simon (and myself) about fitting the Waeco with lots of detail about the wiring... search is your friend!

I use Ultraseal too - great stuff. (I had a slow on the other car - chucked some US in and havent had to top it up for weeks)

Also you could find the hole and get some StopNGo type string plugs. They work great.

(Yet another bleeding method...) Well I've just been on the phone to Martin at DRAIS in Croydon - most helpful chap (Hi if you do get to log in here Martin...) I was calling to talk about getting my (probable) H/HGF looked at and he asked how I'd been bleeding... and said he'd never had any success ...

No it's not hard. Dont run too much off the front one - the wiring is pathetic. It was designed to heat up a coil for 20 seconds - nothing more. Just get some flexible nice copper multistrand cable (proper speaker cable works very well) and some decent connectors. I used speakons just because, well ...

rwill19050 hit the nail on the head. Basically all wire has some resistance. Fewer, thinner strands and the resistance goes up. Corrosion and the resistance goes up. So on a long piece of thin wire there is quite a high resistance. Now this is ok when there is a very small current draw, but with a d...

missfixit70 wrote:mid point of the front crossmember is a protruding dimple, that's the front one, or I just put a lump of wood between jack & chassis if lifting a corner.

Ditto.
Have also jacked the towbar mount once - not sure I'd recommend that though...

Of course it can potentially find - or least demonstrate leaks too.

I think I'm going to buy one. Far as I can tell, it basically sucks as much air out of the (empty) system as possible... and then uses that vaccuum to suck coolant out of a bucket, backfilling the whole system... and potentially leaving no air in it.

If it works...