On the bottom steel hose that is under the driverside foot plate, just In front of the pedals is a nipple with a rubber cover on it. This is how they may have filled from bellow in the factory as it's the lowest point. It's on the drawings but not described....

The pulley is a rubber bonded multi piece job. It is coming apart. It's hitting the front of the engine so don't run it .....

Check the operation and voltage of the glow plugs, could be low voltage from battery, then check voltage to the rail. Is it damaged or shorting. If all tests well you could remove/replace glow plugs. Starter motor contacts failing is another maybe, they are known to fail inside the starter itself, c...

I used paddy hopkirk heavy duty commercial, plenty of room above the roof and the bars are long enough for the wide bongo roof.
Google search em.

That's one of the 2 valves which are at the end of that pipe. It's clipped on to the chassis, just pull it. Then remove it from the end of the pipe. Just inside the pipe end is a little thimble one way valve too. Clean em both out.

In my distant bad memory, don't I remember there is a way to reset em. It's either use the buttons to take em fully forward them back, this centralises the auto adjust.
Or maybe just manually push them forward then back.
It makes a horrible noise.
Or is my memory playing tricks.

The fuel tank pick up pipe has a little thimble filter on the end inside the tank, this could be blocked or restricted a little. Take off the pipe that goes into the fuel pump and blow back to the tank, when clear try sucking back towards the pump to help it prime. The tank itself also has a breathe...

The inside of the arches originally had spot welds all around the underside of the arch, every 6 inch or so.

Have a go with the magnet, it may show you how little there is or other.

could be the pics or my eyes but 1st pic bottom edge looks a tad like fibre glass raggy edge, have you had a wander with a simple little magnet.

Sorry not intercooler, I meant to say gearbox oil pipes, these go into the cooler at the bottom of the coolant rad, sorry for the misleading info.

The bolts that can break are the ones that mount the fans to the rear of the rad. And the ones that mount the brackets carrying the intercooler pipes. Usual amounts of release agent first should do the trick. If they do break they are nothing special to replace so don't worry, give it a go. Don't fo...

Geoff's correct, both screws are blocking the loss of vac or transfer to the next item in the pipework system maybe the solenoid has failed either open or closed, an applied 12 v supply to it will tell if the solenoid is operating.

I always start by doing a pressure test, if its not holding pressure it won't hold coolant. The front and rear heaters can sometimes be an issue, airlocking. Check the flow through the heaters, sometimes they require a squeeze or two. Try to get as much coolant into the system as you can by squeezin...

Check the vac pipes are all in good nick, (not split ) or left off, and the little green filter on the turbo pipe connection, these can get disturbed when doing the glow plugs.

What work did you have done?. Engine speed sensor at the front of the engine (crank sensor). May just need removing and cleaning, they can get oil on the sensor face and start acting up, or the wire needs checking, it's an easy check.